steverqpr Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Hi I have a 1988 FZ600 that I amtrying to get running. The guy who had it before took the carbs off to clean them andI have now put them back on. Problem is that when I turn the tap to PRI, fuel floods out of the othet two pipes coming from the carbs. My question is: Do these two piopes go into anywhere or are they overflow pipes and does the PRI usually make this happen or is it stuck floats? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YPVS TONE Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 It sounds like that the fuel is coming out of the carb overflow pipes usually caused by the float valves not seating properly because of dirt or the float valves being worn.You will have to take the carbs off again and check the float valves for wear and also check the O ring on the valve seat and make sure it hasn't split. The pri positon on the fuel tap is usually used for priming the carbs after you have drained them or if you run out of fuel but for normal use you leave the tap in the ON position as being a vacuum tap fuel only flows when the engine is running but the answer to your question is No even in the prime position fuel should not come out of the overflow pipes. Hope this helps. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junker Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 mine were doing that, they are overflow tubes, and careful! the gas will mess up the paint if it sits on your generator and starter housings! I made a video on this on youtube: U can Basically Fix This problem By taking off the carb bowls, holding the floats' retaining tab (in center, connected to bottom of shut-off valve) with a flat screwdriver while EVER SO SLIGHTLY pulling down on the floats themselves. DO not tug, yank or punch! the tab is made of cheapo yama-haha butter-brass and breaks very easily! Remember, you will probably be looking at the carb at upside down of its natural position, and you want the floats to actuate the shutoff at a lower float level in the bowls... so pull upward on floats when the carb is inverted This is not approved by any top mechanics union or anything and please, don't hold me responsible for anything you break, it is just my quick suggestion to a problem that you and I share. Remember that carburetors are delicate! P.S. if your carbs are a little weathered, i suggest replacing all the screws for the float bowls, (4 Per Carburetor), home depot has stainless and brass ones for cheap, or any hardware store does too, and you will not have to worry about easily stripping carb screws again for awhile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsex Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Hi I have same problem, I have been slowly rebuilding my 88 FZ6 for the last 5 years! I removed the carbs, stripped and had them de-greased, then flushed them out. Fitted new Inlet rubbers. When I came to fire the bike up (1st time!) I primed the carbs, she fired up staright away! Well chuffed! Until she then dumped loads of fuel out of the overflow. There was no crap in the float bowls, it was spotless. I presume I put the right hoses in the right place as the vacuum and fuel lines are different sizes, I cant see how I could get that bit wrong. I had a nightmare time fitting the carbs, so I really dont want to take them out again....i am desperate to get my project back on the road ASAP. Any ideas??? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junker Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 Hi I have same problem, I have been slowly rebuilding my 88 FZ6 for the last 5 years! I removed the carbs, stripped and had them de-greased, then flushed them out. Fitted new Inlet rubbers. When I came to fire the bike up (1st time!) I primed the carbs, she fired up staright away! Well chuffed! Until she then dumped loads of fuel out of the overflow. There was no crap in the float bowls, it was spotless. I presume I put the right hoses in the right place as the vacuum and fuel lines are different sizes, I cant see how I could get that bit wrong. I had a nightmare time fitting the carbs, so I really dont want to take them out again....i am desperate to get my project back on the road ASAP. Any ideas??? Steve getting the carbs off shouldn't be that hard... you just need to improvise tools and make up a strategy. This is how i do it. Take a Black & Decker (or Whatever Brand) electric drill gun, Drill gun not really required... take the long extension bit with the drill and insert the correct size Hex key in the end, i think it is like 7mm or something.... Find a socket wrench and choose a socket that will fit onto the drill-side of your extension bit. Also have a regular allen wrench handy. Slip the homemade long allen Wrench between the two outer carbs on each side and begin removing the upper bolts that mount the intake boots to the motor (ONLY TRY TO REMOVE THE OUTER CARB BOOTS!) Next take the regular allen wrench and remove the bottom bolts, they are pretty accessible, but use whatever you need to if they aren't for you. With the outer carb boots off, loosen the two scissor clips on the middle two carb boots. Make sure they are really loose. Begin to pull the carb assembly toward the back of the bike, you may use the frame for leverage, but BE CAREFUL! Carburetors are very delicate. Do not pull upward, as this will make it harder to remove and encourage cracks in older carb holder boots. the carbs should 'Pop" right out with a little finesse. Take the carbs, do your thing, clean em out, fix the float heights, reassemble them and "pop" them back in. Getting them into the boots is a little harder and may require brute strength, but I can now do this entire procedure in under 1 hour. (regular cleanings are on my to do list everyday almost ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 Hi I have same problem, I have been slowly rebuilding my 88 FZ6 for the last 5 years! I removed the carbs, stripped and had them de-greased, then flushed them out. Fitted new Inlet rubbers. When I came to fire the bike up (1st time!) I primed the carbs, she fired up staright away! Well chuffed! Until she then dumped loads of fuel out of the overflow. There was no crap in the float bowls, it was spotless. I presume I put the right hoses in the right place as the vacuum and fuel lines are different sizes, I cant see how I could get that bit wrong. I had a nightmare time fitting the carbs, so I really dont want to take them out again....i am desperate to get my project back on the road ASAP. Any ideas??? Steve Hi Steve, 1) Remove the carbs 2) check the float needles & float height & the floats for leaks 3) recheck everything else 4) before you put the carbs back on the bike hold them vertical ( a vice is good for this) and supply fuel to them from a small tank. With the carbs off the bike you can work out which carb is at fault (if they sill leak) and cut the strip down time by quite a bit or if they don't appear to leak at onset of fuel just leave them connected up to see if they leak over night. if they don't ... job done & its just a case of the refit. I used to find it easier to remove the airbox rubbers, spray the intake rubbers (internally)with WD40 and use a hammer stale to push the carbs into the intake rubbers (a further leak test, as above, could be done at this point). To refit the airbox rubbers start with the 2 inner ones (you can hang the securing clips over them) then add the outer 2. If the rubbers have gone hard dunking them in hot water will help you get them back in (watch out scalding your hands tho Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsex Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Hi Steve, 1) Remove the carbs 2) check the float needles & float height & the floats for leaks 3) recheck everything else 4) before you put the carbs back on the bike hold them vertical ( a vice is good for this) and supply fuel to them from a small tank. With the carbs off the bike you can work out which carb is at fault (if they sill leak) and cut the strip down time by quite a bit or if they don't appear to leak at onset of fuel just leave them connected up to see if they leak over night. if they don't ... job done & its just a case of the refit. I used to find it easier to remove the airbox rubbers, spray the intake rubbers (internally)with WD40 and use a hammer stale to push the carbs into the intake rubbers (a further leak test, as above, could be done at this point). To refit the airbox rubbers start with the 2 inner ones (you can hang the securing clips over them) then add the outer 2. If the rubbers have gone hard dunking them in hot water will help you get them back in (watch out scalding your hands tho Regards Jim I have found the problem, the float bowl retaining pin holder had snapped off, and i have now purchased a second hand set of carbs. Need new airbox to carb rubbers but they are £95, i have already bought new carb to head rubbers. getting expensive! Updates will follow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsex Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Blimey.....sorted at last. Carbs out, completely stripped and cleaned. Balanced, and raring to go. Bike is sweet as. A272 here I come. I actually prefer riding the FZ to my 98 R1!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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