dragstar_125 Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Hey folks....beat the clock!! I need advice (full description) in how to change the front brake pads on a 125 XVS Dragstar i need the answer before 4 oclock!! the test is on! jsut bought them today and i aint paying for labour charges for something like that!! Kind regards and appreciation Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gas up - Let's Go! Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Take it to bits, put the new pads in, put it back together! don't forget to pump the brakes up afterwards, prefereably before you ride away....... Easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragstar_125 Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 Take it to bits, put the new pads in, put it back together! don't forget to pump the brakes up afterwards, prefereably before you ride away....... Easy. so when u say pump the brakes u mean just squeeze n release them a few times???? i liekd ur explaining in lamens terms.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gas up - Let's Go! Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Sorry, that was no help to you at all, I'm sure Goff will be along any minute to give me a slap, or if I'm unlucky OldGit will turn up ...... Can't help you with the dragstar specific stuff, but in escence; Wrap a rag around your reservoi and losen the screws - you may or may not need to do this, it depends if the fluid's been topped up after the pads have worn down There should be a couple of mounting bolts holding the calipher on, remove them. Normally, there is a pin maybe two, with clip on the end. These kinda secure the pads in place, but allow them to float too. It may well be a spring clip - I don't know, like I say can't help with the bike specific stuff, either way whatever is holding the pads in place will need to come out, then the pads should fall out of the calipher. you will need to push the piston back into the calipher, this will force the fliud back into the reservoir - just make sure it doesn't all errupt out and strip your paint off the tank, or anything else it runns over (hence the rag). When you put it back together, you'll need to be quite liberal with the copper slip (this stops thing sticking together, or the brakes squealing) on the back of the pads, if there is an anti-squeal shim coat both sides. Where the plate (on the pads) runs in the calipher, give that a coat of Copper clip too. Put it back together in the reverse way you took it off, make sure you tighten the bolts correctly. squeeze the brake lever until it feels firm again, top up the brake fluid and fasten the screws up. Check you've got a brake again. Push the bike along and check you still have a brake, if it feels wrong make sure you've put it together right or haven't got copper slip on the pad/disc, or oil. There won't be much can go wrong, unless the fluid get air in it..... Like I said, take it to bits, put the pads in and put it back tyogether. When you've done it once you'll wonder why you bothered asking, it's really not that difficult. Goos luck. I'm sure someone can be alot more specific that this though.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Pretty much as Gas Up says. It's easy enough, but I'd always recommend having someone walk you through it first time. On the brake caliper, loosen the top securing bolt and completely remove the lower one. This should allow you to hinge the caliper open without removing anything. You may have to replace the pad springs as well as the pads. Check Owners Manual. If in doubt, replace 'em. You can either take the reservoir top off, or loosen the bleed nipple and use a bleeding kit (one-way valve) when you push the pistons back in. Be careful with the new brakes for the first 100 miles or so as they're still bedding in and won't be as effective as you'll expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragstar_125 Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 Pretty much as Gas Up says. It's easy enough, but I'd always recommend having someone walk you through it first time. On the brake caliper, loosen the top securing bolt and completely remove the lower one. This should allow you to hinge the caliper open without removing anything. You may have to replace the pad springs as well as the pads. Check Owners Manual. If in doubt, replace 'em. You can either take the reservoir top off, or loosen the bleed nipple and use a bleeding kit (one-way valve) when you push the pistons back in. Be careful with the new brakes for the first 100 miles or so as they're still bedding in and won't be as effective as you'll expect. many thanks for this folks unfortunatley i didnt get ur messages before i went home last ngiht so i tire with my dad and failed !!! going to the mechanics today to get him to walk me through it first time or even tell me what i need to dismantle which doesnt seem like much from what u guys are saying just couldnt get the pads out they were pretty much jammed in there and i couldnt see a release mechanism?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragstar_125 Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 hey Taskmaster you were right, went up at lunch got them fitted for a £10 they dont seem as effective at all , almost like ya have to get a really good squeeze on them jsut to feel , about as much power as the back brakes and usually my fronts are far more effective!!! will this improve in time like you said ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gas up - Let's Go! Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 will this improve in time like you said ??? Yip. Your disc will have imperfections, or grooves in it, the pad needs to wear down in parts to fit these grooves, kinda like a key in a lock, the profile of the pads needs to match the profile of the disc so that full surface contact can be made. It doesn't take very long, you'll probably notice it improving in the next 50 or so miles. BTW, don't wory about the imperfections it's quite normal, they are normally very minute, but on older discs they'll be a bit more noticable - after all these are friction surfaces and both pads and the disc will wear. If you decide to remove the pads at any time (say for cleaning after the winter crap), just take a note which pad matches which side of the disc and put them back the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Yep.... and BE GENTLE with the brakes. Be very careful how you ride and make damn sure your observation is top notch. That way you will lessen the chance of having to make an emergency stop and end up squeezing the less effective brakes. Just for the first 100 miles or so. Once they're bedded in you can relax a touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragstar_125 Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 Yip. Your disc will have imperfections, or grooves in it, the pad needs to wear down in parts to fit these grooves, kinda like a key in a lock, the profile of the pads needs to match the profile of the disc so that full surface contact can be made. It doesn't take very long, you'll probably notice it improving in the next 50 or so miles. BTW, don't wory about the imperfections it's quite normal, they are normally very minute, but on older discs they'll be a bit more noticable - after all these are friction surfaces and both pads and the disc will wear. If you decide to remove the pads at any time (say for cleaning after the winter crap), just take a note which pad matches which side of the disc and put them back the same way. HEY great advice gas up thanks very much !!! talk soon Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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