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RT1 carb and parts questions


psuiewalsh
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Hello all, As a new owner to an old 71 RT1 360 I have been working my way through its problems. I have rebuilt the trans, broken kicker idler gear shaft and a bunch of obvious problems. The bike now runs and rides and kicks back like a mule, but there is also a problem with the carb. I am not running an air cleaner yet because I have not been able to find one (hints anyone). Could this lack of restriction effect the next several issues?

The bike will run but the choke has to be down or it acts like it is running out of fuel even at speed. I have cleaned the carb several times and see no clogged jets.

The next issue discovered today is that it starts over revving if on a moderate to steep incline. Could this be a float issue?

I also have a problem with the slide in the carb sticking on a small plastic pin in the side of the carb. Is there a way to replace this?

Lastly, Is there a place that sells replacement headlight bulbs?

Thanks

Keith

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Hey Kieth,

with all "flange" mount carbies, it's important not to overtighten the mounting bolts or you'll have throttle sticking problems. i usually work the throttle as i tighten these bolts till i find that happy medium. it may also be possible this is the same reason for your over-rev.

as for the kick-back issue, read here...

http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14559

they are the kick-back king with the std points set-up.

hope this helps. :)

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Vandy,

Thank your for your response. A little more info on my part may help you help me. The over revving happens with no extra throttle input. It really comes on when it is on a steep grade. I really notice it when the front tire is higher than the rest of the bike. I was just sitting there with my foot on the rear brake when it started revving. The other time was on a bank where I lost traction and had to stop. The revs picked up on its own after I had let go of the throttle.

The other sticking problem is from a plastic guide piece that sticks out from the inside of the throttle casting. Is there any way to replace that piece as it has become brittle with time. It looks like it is designed to keep the throttle slide from twisting inside the bore. This even happens when the carb is in my hands off of the bike. I took a needle file and worked it down some where it had fractured off.

Any ideas as to why it has to run with the choke down? It runs fine like that but even at speed when I pull it up the engine acts like it runs out of fuel.

I read your article the other day and it looks like an interesting project but the CDI box seems to be an expensive part to scrounge up.

I got the bike from a neighbor for free and have been putting parts into it ever since. The biggest suprise so far was when the tach gear in the trans let loose and snapped off the kicker idler gear shaft. It took me severals days to break the motor down and replace the trans shaft.

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quote name='vandy010' date='Feb 16 2009, 05:06 PM' post='79616']

Hey Kieth,

with all "flange" mount carbies, it's important not to overtighten the mounting bolts or you'll have throttle sticking problems. i usually work the throttle as i tighten these bolts till i find that happy medium. it may also be possible this is the same reason for your over-rev.

as for the kick-back issue, read here...

http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14559

they are the kick-back king with the std points set-up.

hope this helps. :)

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sounds weird with the over-rev Kieth.

part of me wants to suspect the motor is sucking in air somewhere. hopefully it's not from the main seal behind the flywheel {cuase they can be pretty hard to source}. it sounds like you're checking in the right direction with the carby/clean/file bizo. hows the cable? mines actually been converted over for vintage moto-x and runs a 34mm carby jetted to stock RT1MX specs with a new cable. so i'm a little unfamiliar with the plastic guide piece you speak of.

as for CDI's, yeah, some people just want the earth for them and it's criminal. my local wreckers wants $80 a piece for a flywheel/stator/cdi box. just keep your eyes peeled and sooner or later one will turn up at the right price.

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