mexpx Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Hey everyone. I'm living in Mexico City right now and got overly anxious and bought a SR 250 I shouldn't have. It was kinda of a mess and I missed a bunch of details when looking it over. I really needed the bike to get around. Traffic hear is horrendous. Anyway, it's running, fairly well considering the problems I've had to fix. Non-original carb I think is the biggest culprit for the less than stellar performance. I was in the process of restoring my Honda CB550 Four in Chicago and she was much more powerful than this little 250, so my opinion may be off - comparing a 550 to a 250. Still, I see plenty of guys riding around mexico on 150 and 125's carry plenty of cargo and passing me going uphill. There are few open road in mexico city, so I don't know what 4th and 5th can really do either. ANYWAY.. I don't know how, but I didn't notice the epoxy or whatever it was they used to fix the engine crank case crack. I guess it was covered in oil. They did a horrible job on it, just slapping some material on it without removing any parts. Anyway, I want to improve this repair because it seeps oil constantly. Might I also be losing some pressure here? Here's what I was thinking - I'd appreciate any feedback... -remove the side cover and sand off the material the PO used for the repair. -also sand of material on center piece of cover. This is where most of the expoy is and, I'm assuming, the location of the damage. -reapply a new epoxy contouring to the shape of the case. Sanding excess off. Do you think this will work? Should I be thinking about some sort of gasket material? I want to sell this bike and get a bigger one. Do you think it might be worse if I try to fix it? Any other thoughts? Thanks for the feedback everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve m Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 That looks bad !! looks like they smashed the case where the bolt goes in,, pushed a hex bolt in then then bunged epoxsy metal round it to hold it in,, bet it wont undo with out causing more damage, do you really want to know whats under that lot ?? Not sure what I would do really.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark h Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Hi Mex, That`s an awful lot of gunk, Do you really wont to know whats under there?, I buy/sell bikes quite often, Best bet? leave it, and maybe take a loss, But you`ve learnt somthing, I bet you have a beedin good look next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUST ME! Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 IN technical terms, IT'S ROOTED, mainly because it interferes with the gasket face. The epoxied area is weeping because the epoxy is expanding at a different rate to the alloy and cracking. You may be able to make it oil tight by grinding out most of the epoxy and just leaving enough to form a plug that won't fall into the case. Then sand an area somewhat larger than the hole. Then apply a large coating of urethane such as sikaflex or windscreen sealer.Anybody that has used this stuff knows that it sticks like shit to a blanket. Wear latex gloves when applying it!This really is a rough and ready repair, however anything else would be uneconomical. May just get a few more months use out of it! Ensure that oil has not covered the tyres. No it will not impact on compression, if that is what you mean by pressure. Let us know how you go. SEE YA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mexpx Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm thinking I'll leave it, for now. I'll try to sell it first and see how it goes. If I can't get the cash I want from it, I'll try to fix it. My ears are still open if anyone else has any ideas. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mexpx Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Hi again everyone, So I found this item on ebay - Center crank case covers I'm thinking of buying it and getting rid of this leak. This looks like a big job. How difficult would you rate this? Will this job require any special tools other than your typical wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers etc? Might I need new gaskets, or since this is the only apparent source of a leak, do you think it will be ok? Can I do this without pulling it out of the frame? Just to give you an idea of my level of experience, on my old 76 honda cb550, I rebuilt the carbs, and front brake, and I had become good at doing a tune up on it - tappets, points adjustment, timing, carb sync, etc. I also replaced some of the switches, made some corrections to the electrical, and built a rectifier for it. The same seller also has bolts and hardware for the engine, so I should be okay with that. I'm also having trouble with the shifter. It seems way too difficult to find neutral. It often takes me several kicks back and forth between 1st and 2nd to get into neutral. The neutral light on the display is always lit. Plus, sometimes, when I go all the way down to 1st, the sift pedal dips way down where I really have to reach my toe to pull it up to 2nd. Scary when I'm trying to zip ahead of a Mexico City bus when the light turns green. Then the shifter pedal comes up so high, it scrapes the left side engine cover. Anyone have a guess as to what's causing that? The same seller has some parts that I think I might need, but I guess I should probably rip her open to be sure. Tell me what you guys think... shifter shaft Shift Drum shift forks He has the same pictures for shift drum and shift fork, so I don't know the difference. I have only been able to find a partial repair manual online. If anyone has any suggests where I can find a complete version - in english or spanish - I would really appreciate it. I really appreciate your responses everyone. I was able to restore my Honda with the help of the SOCH owners forum. Without them it would never have happened. You guys have been just as cool. Thanks again David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve m Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 All new gaskets, all new oil seals, the rest of what it will need will depend on what you find after stripping it down ? this is a full engine strip,, would have thought here will be a need of some special tools. Is it worth it ???????? Up too you ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madison Motorsport Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 If you are prepared to spend up to several times, potentially, what you paid for the bike and restore it to factory condition, then go for it. Otherwise, repair it as cheaply as you can and sell it. Aluminium welding may be an option but I can't tell for sure unless I see it stripped down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mexpx Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 well the parts plus shipping to mexico city won't be more than $200. I'm already in over what I can probably get for it. I should never have bought this bike to be honest. And that's my fear. I'm thinking if I don't fix it no one will want to buy it and I'm stuck with it. Maybe I'll leave the oil leak and try to tighten it up some so it doesn't leak using the suggestions made by JUST ME! in his post. Any thoughts on the shifter pedal issue? Thanks again. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 22, 2009 Moderator Share Posted January 22, 2009 Seriously, I think you should re-do the bodge job and this time do it properly, get that stuff off and clean off all traces of oil with something like acetone (or similar strong solvent), then re do it, have a word with our Goff who will extol the vitues of JB Weld, which I hear is very good stuff, then get rid of it and be done with it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cy Welch Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Seriously, I think you should re-do the bodge job and this time do it properly, get that stuff off and clean off all traces of oil with something like acetone (or similar strong solvent), then re do it, have a word with our Goff who will extol the vitues of JB Weld, which I hear is very good stuff, then get rid of it and be done with it!! I would have to agree. JB Weld is the best stuff out there. Get things good and clean and it should be able to fix up that leak just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mexpx Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 ok, sounds like a good idea... I'm gonna drain the oil, take the cover off, pull the lousy job off and do a better job with JB Weld. Now where can I find some JB weld in mexico city... Any thoughts regarding the shifter from anyone? Thanks for the tips everyone!! D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 23, 2009 Moderator Share Posted January 23, 2009 ok, sounds like a good idea... I'm gonna drain the oil, take the cover off, pull the lousy job off and do a better job with JB Weld. Now where can I find some JB weld in mexico city...Try Here or google Any thoughts regarding the shifter from anyone? Have the splines gone on the shaft, may need a new shaft and lever if this is so...or another bodge job!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mexpx Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 yeah, i sent them an email last night asking if they can point me to a distributor/retailer down here. There is a home depot here, so I'll check that out today. As for the shifter, I guess I'll take it a apart this weekend and take a closer look. Thanks again everyone! D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild foamy Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 the shifter may have a broken/weak return spring which is preventing the lever from returning to the centre when you shift down, hence why you have to put your foot right down and pull it back up. also, strip it down and check your selector forks, bent/broken selector forks can cause all sorts of problems. finding Neutral isnt always easy, on some bikes it will drop straight into neutral, on my DT i usually have to change into 2nd and then tap my foot on the lever to get it to drop into neutral, i've been told this is a worn detent plunger but it works so im not going to fiddle with it incase i break it the crack wont have any effect on the engine compression and your lack of power is most likely the carb, if it isnt set up right i may be running the mixture overly rich (too much fuel, bogs down, no power) or too lean (less fuel, engine tends to run hotter and in extreme cases be low on power) im not familiar with that particular bike but im assuming its a 2 stroke, if its a 4 stroke then check your vales and timing to make sure it is set up right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUST ME! Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 Geday mate. Buy another bike identical to this one and it top condition. Then use this one for spares. Eventually the old one will have paid for itself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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