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I think I am turning Cafe, I really think so


bralkan
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So, I know a lot of this has been posted in various threads but I want to try and collect it all so I make sure I do this right.

I put clubman's on and I like the sit. However, it feels like they might be vibrating more. Any suggestions? Heavier weights in the bar?

Carbs - the last place I was at with these: I was adjusting the mixture screws (idle or fuel? I think I've seen it called both?? Anyways, mix screw on engine side, top of carbs). Well, I loosened one to much and I can't find it. I ordered a new one from mikexs. I also ordered 145 and 147.5 jets; as well as larger pilots just in case.

Why bigger jets? Well, I want to go to pods so I can try and get rid of the battery box. But I know there are / have a few issues.

Will I need anything to support the carbs with the stock airboxes no longer "holding" them?

I bought the cheapo EMGO filters. Apparently, the lip on these can get in the way of the main jet. Anyone here have any experience with these? Also, looking at MikeXS I see they have K&N style pods for the XS650 BS34 carbs. Should these be safe for my BS34? I only ask because on MikeXS they are sized at 52mm and the EMGOs are sized at 48mm. I will mention, these EMGOs are a pain in the A$$ to get on. I barely got them on the carbs off the bike. No idea how I would get them on with the carbs on the bike.

Removing the battery box - I understand that the XS has to have a power supply to power the magnet to generate electricity. But how small of a battery can I go to? I've seen mention of car alarm batteries - will the lower Ah be ok? Stock XS is 12Ah? I found one that might fit, but its only rated at 7Ah. Anyone actually try it?

Thats all I can think of for now. Thanks in advance.

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I think you can get away with 2 amp if you are NOT running starter motor. I am going to try one that size as you only need to exite a magnet!!

I would keep the air box hoses and the T-peice which goes to the breather system as this gives the diaphram an undisturbed air flow to the carb. I am doing this with my xs tracker and it looks good with out the side panels. yes I have emgo and they are too tight but perfecto for the air box tubes!!

as for the bars you need to change the harmonics to where it is confortable Ie where in the rev range you are riding! as you are Leaning more on the bars you are affctivly changing the harmonics by adding your body weight. do you still have the rubber isolation plugs in there? try tightenig them or losening them (not too much LOL)

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Alrighty...

So, got some chopping and painting done. I put the carbs and filters back on and tried to get it going. Well, no go. I got a few put puts but nothing staying on.

Took carbs off and decided it was time to mess with the jets. I took the bowls off and looked around. The main jets (center shaft; adjacent to a shaft with a rubber plug and what looks like the pilot jet underneith) where 135s. Hmm, supposed to be 142. Shit.

I orded 145s and 147.5s. Guess it serves me for ordering jets without seeing what is really in there.

Anyways, I put the 145s in and put the carbs back on. This time I left the air filters off (new, pod filters).

Success! She runs....but, once I give her any throttle she quits. Won't start off full choke.

Do I just need to bump down the main jets to 140s or so? Could it be anything else in the carbs? Fuel mix screws (top of carbs, close to engine) wrong? Starter jets? (these looked dirty). Try and find an ultrasonic cleaner and take the whole bloody carbs apart?

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check float bowl height first, maybe that it too low and not supplying fuel. using the choke bypasses the pilot system so I would check for blockages there!!

check sparkies if they are wet or white to get an idea what is happening in combustion.

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check float bowl height first, maybe that it too low and not supplying fuel. using the choke bypasses the pilot system so I would check for blockages there!!

check sparkies if they are wet or white to get an idea what is happening in combustion.

I did pull the plugs and they where not wet at all. They are colored from running previously so I am not sure if its lean or rich or whatnot. I need to go pick up a clean pair. They are sparking though, checked that. Gapped and all. It has to be something fuel related. I will check the floats.

What should I do about the jets? Go back to the 135s until I can get 137.5s or 140s? Or go ahead and use 145s?

Thanks again Drewpy.

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I would go with original jets and maybe raise needle 1 position or pack with washers if there is no groove for this!!

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it should say in your manual what the correct float height is, before you go bending anything check to see if the floats are already at the right height, then we can eliminate this as being the problem.

make sure it is nice and warm before you start tinkering with the tuning side of things.

sounds to me like it is running rich when you open the throttle, my DT sometimes does that when i start it up first thing and have maybe left the fuel tap open, it clears itself after a few seconds though. if your floats are already at the right height then maybe try a smaller jet.

surely raising the needle would richen the mixture?

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it should say in your manual what the correct float height is, before you go bending anything check to see if the floats are already at the right height, then we can eliminate this as being the problem.

make sure it is nice and warm before you start tinkering with the tuning side of things.

sounds to me like it is running rich when you open the throttle, my DT sometimes does that when i start it up first thing and have maybe left the fuel tap open, it clears itself after a few seconds though. if your floats are already at the right height then maybe try a smaller jet.

surely raising the needle would richen the mixture?

These 80's 400's are known for being exremely lean and putting on pod filters tends to make them more lean. So it's common to either have to go to bigger jets, but in some cases just raising the fuel level in the carbs will do the trick as well.

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So, I know a lot of this has been posted in various threads but I want to try and collect it all so I make sure I do this right.

I put clubman's on and I like the sit. However, it feels like they might be vibrating more. Any suggestions? Heavier weights in the bar?

Carbs - the last place I was at with these: I was adjusting the mixture screws (idle or fuel? I think I've seen it called both?? Anyways, mix screw on engine side, top of carbs). Well, I loosened one to much and I can't find it. I ordered a new one from mikexs. I also ordered 145 and 147.5 jets; as well as larger pilots just in case.

Why bigger jets? Well, I want to go to pods so I can try and get rid of the battery box. But I know there are / have a few issues.

Will I need anything to support the carbs with the stock airboxes no longer "holding" them?

I bought the cheapo EMGO filters. Apparently, the lip on these can get in the way of the main jet. Anyone here have any experience with these? Also, looking at MikeXS I see they have K&N style pods for the XS650 BS34 carbs. Should these be safe for my BS34? I only ask because on MikeXS they are sized at 52mm and the EMGOs are sized at 48mm. I will mention, these EMGOs are a pain in the A$$ to get on. I barely got them on the carbs off the bike. No idea how I would get them on with the carbs on the bike.

Removing the battery box - I understand that the XS has to have a power supply to power the magnet to generate electricity. But how small of a battery can I go to? I've seen mention of car alarm batteries - will the lower Ah be ok? Stock XS is 12Ah? I found one that might fit, but its only rated at 7Ah. Anyone actually try it?

Thats all I can think of for now. Thanks in advance.

steel shot in the bars, yes emco's do block Ajet, you can prob notch around it, but ebay under powersports has gocart filters that are exact copys of K&N's at around 24.00 per pair, No brace should be needed on filtercarbs.

Sorry no help on carbs, ive ebayed the stockers and opted for roundslides, you might check with 650 central and send mike mercury morries an email on your carbs the guys a whiz.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, messed with the floats and its running and doesn't die on throttle.

I put the 147 size mains in, but I need to pull the plugs and see how they look. I had moved up from 135s which where lean...

I had the bike running on choke and off, but later in the night I couldn't get it going again. Like I said, need to pull the plugs and look at those.

Should I need to do anything to the pilot jets? Clean them again? Just go to a more reasonable main jet (137.5?).

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Helps to have gas :rolleyes:

Its still sticking at around 4k when on and still having some problems getting it to come off the choke. I think it had better luck on the 145s than the 135s. I will try going back to those this weekend while I wait for 140s to come in.

I also need to replace the throttle cable - anyone have clubmans and know the length they used? The stock length is a little long. Same for the front break cable.

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  • 3 months later...

Well,

I finally got some time off work to mess with the bike.

Its still sticking at 4k rpms with the new jets and adjustments.

Diaphragm maybe?

If the idle is sticking high it's the idle mixture being lean. The diaphram has nothing to do with that, and neither to the main jets. You might consider changing the pilot jets to bigger ones that you have now if you can't adjust it with the idle mixture screws. Adjust the screws out for the highest idle (don't forget to turn the idle speed adjuster down as you do this) and the problem should go away. I ended having to go way further out than I thought I should be idle speed is rock solid now and when I let off the throttle it comes right down without hesitation.

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Helps to have gas :rolleyes:

Its still sticking at around 4k when on and still having some problems getting it to come off the choke. I think it had better luck on the 145s than the 135s. I will try going back to those this weekend while I wait for 140s to come in.

I also need to replace the throttle cable - anyone have clubmans and know the length they used? The stock length is a little long. Same for the front break cable.

when I put clubmans on my xs500, i had a bike shop shorten the throttle cable by about 4 inches. it is still a hair long, but it doesnt push the bars to the side or anything.

I want to see pictures of this!

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Hey dude, them carb floats are pretty touchy things, a hair low and you won't get enough fuel. I messed with them a couple times, found that exactly 1.062" above the flange is that golden spot (right between enough fuel and to much where gas spills out of your carbs). Also, make sure all them holes in the float bowls and chamber are clear, not just the jets. Each hole has an exit somewheres else, and they do get gunked up, affecting how the bike runs. Spray carb cleaner into each hole till you see the stream shoot from somewhere.

I also took off the air boxes and hooked up uni filters unto the carb boots. Hence, I as well was concerned about the joints holding up the carbs on their own without being supported on the other end with the air boxes. I solved that dilemma by using a couple zip ties. I looped a zip tie around the top bracket of the carbs (the one that doubles as the throttle cable bracket), and attached that to another zip tie that loops around the frame immediately above that.

I got clubman bars on, but don't really notice that much of a difference in vibration from the other bars. It is bad enough though, that a bar end mirror became a useless, blurry mess. Anyways, you could buy weighted bar ends if vibration is pretty bad. You could also stuff sand into the bars and then plug them up (make sure the plugs are secure, else you're gonna leave a trail as you ride off, lolz).

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Oh, btw, as far as that float height, I measure it on the flange itself, with the gasket in place. Not on the lip that protrudes a bit above that.

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