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Tylerman
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you'll get there in the end mate, it will be worth it when you can tear down the road on your RS100 :)

These things "tear down the road"? I'll believe it when I see it, but I am looking forward to it regardless.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well eBay bit me, I have waited four weeks for a std set of piston rings to arrive from Singapore, but gave up and bought a set from a shop in Georgia and had them in two days. Buttoned everything back up, gassed up the tank, scrambled to put a fuel line on the crossover with gas flowing out, cleaned the gas off of the bike, tested compression, 90psi. Dangit, I went cheap and made my own base gasket and I think that is the problem. I did reanneal the copper head gasket, no trouble there I've done it on other two strokes. I'll figger this thing out or die trying.

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Hey Tylerman,

Nice bike. Don't get discouraged you'll figure it out sooner or later. That's all part of the fun of working on something old. Ever think of taking the kick shaft to a machine shop and let them build the metal back up with welds and then re-spline it? Keep at it! I look forward to hearing about the good times to come!

Later friend!

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OH motherhumper, a local shop I hang out at has a gasket making plotter/software setup and I had them cut me a new base gasket. Twenty minutes of wrenching the top end off and on, gave it a couple kicks and compression is up to 102psi. Well that seems too low still but I'll give her an honest shot. And it started. I have had this bike for nearly four years and it has never started. Now I have that sense of anticipation in my chest. My mouth went dry as I watched the flywheel continue to spin. It dies within seconds, ten to twenty at most, and stalls out when I give it throttle, and I am still frustrated that compression is so low. There is no intake tract, just the hard connection from the carb to the reed valve, with an o-ring and a phenolic plastic (I think) spacer in between. Both look to be pretty clean, the o-ring is still pliable and shows no cracks but I'll get a new one. I am also going to go through the carb AGAIN to see if there's something I missed. One other thing, I have the original snorkel and airbox but no filter element. The entire assembly is on the shelf, the mouth of the carb is open. It should still run in this condition, though, yes? I have had a two stroke with old crank seals but they didn't become a problem until the bike was warmed up, several minutes of riding, this sputter/stall seems to happen too quickly for that, although I cannot completely discount them as a culprit.

Any advice is helpful.

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welcome and looks like a fun project, not alot of em around anymore, Im gonna make some popcorn and watch this playout. good luck ; Jeep.

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Looking at it again, there is a gasket at the reed-valve to cylinder junction, duh air leak possible there, gotta go get some more gasket material. Gonna try like hell to get an idle out of this bike today.

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check all the connections between carb/reed valve/engine first,

as far as gaskets its probably more worth buying a roll of gasket paper and making your own, ive had to make a side case gasket for my DT and base gaskets for the DT (twice), one for the Jawa and also one to go between the carb and reed valve.

now you have cleaned the clutch up have you tried bumpstarting it?

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Oh I worked over the clutch, but not in a good ay apparently. However, the sumbitch is idling now! I took the entire intake section apart and started putting it back together from scratch.

Top End

RS100TopEnd.jpg

This is just prior to assembly with the correct rings and gaskets

Carb and Reed Valve Assembly

RS100IntakeParts.jpg

I remade the three gaskets on the right with rubber sheet material, cheap tech!

When the day started it looked like this

NoCompression.jpg

OilTight.jpg

No compression, but oil tight and waiting for me to figure it out.

Now it is at this stage

RS100FrontNew.jpg

RS100Assembled.jpg

I was missing a sidecover bolt, all I had was a screw which was WAAAAY too long, so I improvised a little spacer setup

RS100Bolt.jpg

The motivation for putting all the extras back on (intake snorkel, airbox and filter) was because if it needed the filter to run, and I had the parts, why bang my head against a wall if I didn't have to. I cut a new filter from some oiled foam, stuck it in, botled it all together, kicked it over and it started and ran steady and smooth. A little idle tweaking and it sat there putting like it had been running every day instead of sitting in my carhold in pieces.

After I got it running I swapped out the old front end and fender with a better condition one I had laying around

Old Front

RS100FrontOld.jpg

New(er)

RS100FrontNew.jpg

Complete front swap minus the wheel, so I went to the trouble of cleaning and greasing the upper and lower bearings on the stering stem. I gotta tell ya, whoever came up with the design for those forks was a sadist, they are an absolute bitch to put together.

Anyway,

Bad news is the clutch is not engaging but I am not totally suprised by that, a clutch is the least of my concerns. The wheel will spin at idle but it will not engage enough to ride. Like I said it started and settled into a steady idle once I had the intake system completely installed, pulling the clutch cover off is no big deal. I am pumped!

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Well now that it runs so smoothly I can justify putting a little money into it. I ordered a replacement clutch hub, throttel cable splitter (kinda jerry-rigged right now), brake shoes, fork seals and a oil sight glass (whats in there now is cracked and leaking). The original paint is sharp enough to keep, although the frame could use a re-spray, and the rear fender is shot but it keeps the rain off as they say so until more money comes up, it stays. Once its rideable I'll title it and be off on my merry way.

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Well work continues, I replaced the front brakes/springs, fork seals, greased everything in the front hub, and the replacement clutch hub arrived. Alas when I removed the old hub I noticed that the flat roller bearing between the hub and basket is smashed and deformed, causing the new hub to spin eccentrically. So although I have all the parts including a new clutch pack, I gotta wait for yet another part to put it all back together. I also found the retainer clip on the kickstart shaft had snapped, so I replaced that. Lastly I have a replacement oil window, as both tanks I have leak at the window. Slowly but surely she is being beaten back into roadworthy condition.

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Well now that it runs so smoothly I can justify putting a little money into it. I ordered a replacement clutch hub, throttel cable splitter (kinda jerry-rigged right now), brake shoes, fork seals and a oil sight glass (whats in there now is cracked and leaking). The original paint is sharp enough to keep, although the frame could use a re-spray, and the rear fender is shot but it keeps the rain off as they say so until more money comes up, it stays. Once its rideable I'll title it and be off on my merry way.

Well done Tylerman!!

The resurrection of another great vintage Yami is always inspiring..I'm going to polish up my toys now..lol,,

WELL DONE!

Travis K. :)

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Nice work , Tylerman !!

Always nice to know that an old yammie is back to the road.

:rolleyes:

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Well she officially goes into the category of "Bikes I have Ridden". If anyone has never heard of www.nwvintagecycleparts.com in oregon, you should check them out. They specialize in Yammy parts, and supplied a whole bunch of the little stuff I needed to get this bike going, including the flat thrust bearing between the clutch basket and hub that arrived this morning. Once everything was buttoned back together, oil was poured into the appropriate places,, necessary switches were turned, cables were connected and adjusted correctly and the kick lever was kicked with sufficient force, she started right up and rode away.

Click the link here to view it running down my street.

There remains a short list of things to tweak, like the headlight bezel, replace the rear brakes, chain/sprockets, tires and of course get a title, but otherwise she is a runner and moves from the workshop into the carhold.

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Me too Maltatrucker, since the start february of this year.

One thing I missed in that video was the bog in the throttle as I started to ride through my grass, and the "pop" in the throttle as I began accelerating. Cable adjusted on top of the carb was too loose, tightened that up and its much smother throttle response.

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