zoomer Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 Go all the way up to 4th and ride the power band up. . Please note this is on the 125 Drag only. This is for distance cruising only. Obviously if you have to slow at all, you will have to start building up again. Drag, Is the power band connected.
Ttaskmaster Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 i will inform you of how the performance has changed once the bearings have been changed.....will this make a vast improvment on the performance??? Well, yeah - It should work for starters!!! I want to be hitting 50 easy on my 125..... You will. Like I said, you should expect 75 out of this thing. You won't beat the Sports style 125s, but neither will you be particularly slow. Just remember that all Cruisers are effectively tractors!! Drag, Is the power band connected. Eh??!! You yankin' my shaft drive*? Tell me you're playing dumb for humourous reasons!!!! In case someone doesn't know - Power band - The rev range of a particular gear, within which you may achieve a powerful response from the throttle. When you reach the top of the band you need to shift up, else your engine will scream like a baby dragon with it's nads stuck in a mangle!! *Coz I don't have a chain, see. Geddit? See what I did there?
zoomer Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 No chain , power band or rev counter ? What year is it.
dragstar_125 Posted November 7, 2008 Author Posted November 7, 2008 Well, yeah - It should work for starters!!! You will. Like I said, you should expect 75 out of this thing. You won't beat the Sports style 125s, but neither will you be particularly slow. Just remember that all Cruisers are effectively tractors!! My friend has a 125 sym xs....will i achieve the same speed and be able to keep up with him ok??? i dont want incredible speed just to be able to hit 50 -60 without struggling and at a good acceleration
oldtimer Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 This is how we does it: Just a little thing, really. Your bike may vary somewhat, but this generally works on most 125s. Please note, this is more an art than a science. Ride all the way through the power band, shifting up just before the engine gets uncomfortable (ie starts getting too noisy). On the Drag, top speed can be achieved in 4th gear. 5th is just to ease the engine. Go all the way up to 4th and ride the power band up. Shift into 5th at the appropriate point and maintain a steady cruising speed. This should be at around 1/3rd throttle. S-L-O-W-L-Y increase throttle. I do mean very gradually. Eventually, you'll be at 4/5ths throttle and doing around 80mph. Please note this is on the 125 Drag only. This is for distance cruising only. Obviously if you have to slow at all, you will have to start building up again. thanks for your tip mate will give it a go, i am a bit spoiled by having had more powerful bikes and having something in reserve so any advice or tips on bikes i am not to familiar with is appreciated thanks again, paul
Ttaskmaster Posted November 10, 2008 Posted November 10, 2008 No chain , power band or rev counter ? What year is it. 1999. OK, I shall assume you're not taking the piss and genuinely don't know what I'm talking about, here... 1/. Not all bikes have (or even need) a rev counter. Most Cruisers don't have one as standard. Just a speedo. We don't need one as we can hear what the engine is doing and know when to shift gear. 2/. No chain. No drive belt either. We have a shaft drive, which is great for direct power delivery and is pretty much maintenance free. No adjustments, Scottoilers or anything - Just needs final drive oil every 6-12,000 miles. 3/. Power Band is a range of revs, NOT a drive system. A typical powerband might be between 3-8,000 revs, ie the area where you have the best response on the throttle. My friend has a 125 sym xs....will i achieve the same speed and be able to keep up with him ok??? i dont want incredible speed just to be able to hit 50 -60 without struggling and at a good acceleration Well, yes..... Better yet, see how it does when you get it back. thanks for your tip mate will give it a go, i am a bit spoiled by having had more powerful bikes and having something in reserve so any advice or tips on bikes i am not to familiar with is appreciated thanks again, paul Yay, a sensible remark!!! Happy to help, mate. I don't know if all bikes do this, but certainly that's what I used to do to keep up with the big 1100s. It takes a while to build up speed, of course, but it saves you pootling at 65 all the time!!
dragstar_125 Posted November 10, 2008 Author Posted November 10, 2008 QUOTE: Well, yes..... Better yet, see how it does when you get it back. Yea becasue when u had the problem with mine the night we went fot a spin he was acting dead cocky that his bike was superior to mine...his is a sym god dammit mine is a yamaha!!!!! both 125s...........i beat his ass on style alone
Ttaskmaster Posted November 10, 2008 Posted November 10, 2008 Having a faster bike does not make someone a better person. Kick him in the nuts and see how cocky he is then!!!!!! People hassle me over my "Harley Wannabe" bike. If I could AFFORD a fucking Harley, I'd have a garage with several bikes!!
dragstar_125 Posted November 10, 2008 Author Posted November 10, 2008 Having a faster bike does not make someone a better person. Kick him in the nuts and see how cocky he is then!!!!!! People hassle me over my "Harley Wannabe" bike. If I could AFFORD a fucking Harley, I'd have a garage with several bikes!! Hell yea you're right man!!! And i think a cruiser is a cruiser!!!! not about being a harley wannabe!!! if i could afford a harley i would have 3 different crusiers in my garage...not a harley!!!! haha! a nice 650 crusier...then spend the extra cash pimpin her out!! UPDATE ON REPAIRR TASKMASTER: Instead of fitting only new bearings, they have made the decision to replace the complete crankshaft in case it had some way became damaged with the bearing not being bathed in engine oil..they said they beleive this si the best option when rebuilding an engine?? would you concur...KEEP IN MIND: im not paying for any of it
Ttaskmaster Posted November 10, 2008 Posted November 10, 2008 Myself, I'm not yet very mechanically minded - At least not with bikes. But if you have any military issue small arms, I am qualified to happily fix those..... But hey - if you're getting a comprehensive fix/rebuild instead of a patch-up job and it's free, then why not!!! End of the day, the dealer has issued a warranty and its his responsibility to make it work properly. You have legal recourse and if there are any legal problems, first port of call will be Trading Standards. Anyone else have thoughts? I'm hoping OldGit and Goff are keeping an eye on this one....
dragstar_125 Posted November 10, 2008 Author Posted November 10, 2008 Myself, I'm not yet very mechanically minded - At least not with bikes. But if you have any military issue small arms, I am qualified to happily fix those..... But hey - if you're getting a comprehensive fix/rebuild instead of a patch-up job and it's free, then why not!!! End of the day, the dealer has issued a warranty and its his responsibility to make it work properly. You have legal recourse and if there are any legal problems, first port of call will be Trading Standards. Anyone else have thoughts? I'm hoping OldGit and Goff are keeping an eye on this one.... yea well i will have the patience 2 wait an extra couple of days seeing as im getting a brand new crank shaft instead ofjust the bearings, they are phoning yamaha tomorrow to see if they have the parts ready....would this not be 2nd hand as they dont make engines/parts new for dragstar 125s (2004) any input on they crank shaft issues would be great from any1.... any input on tips for breaking best effective.... in current weather conditions.... would be fan-taby-tastic!! thanks all
Ttaskmaster Posted November 11, 2008 Posted November 11, 2008 Most manufacturers keep a bunch of parts for a number of years, in case something like this happens. They also continue to make consumables (like oil & air filters) for people like me who insist on buying OEM parts (because I found out the hard way - pattern ones aren't always as good as they're supposed to be......) Current weather conditions...... Well, today it's sunny where I live, but I'll assume you meant pissing down with rain.... On a Cruiser, you'll want mostly front brake (remember to brake progressively) but do consider a bit of back brake to bring the weight back on line. Remember too, to allow a greater stopping distance in the wet. DO NOT brake when you're on diesel. I mean a BIG bit, not the tiny 2" spots. If you have to brake, roll off the throttle and wait until you're past the diesel. You so much as touch the front when going over large patches, you'll hit the deck before you even realise you're going down!! The only time you should brake on diesel is if you're about to hit something more dangerous... like a car!!
dragstar_125 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Posted November 11, 2008 Most manufacturers keep a bunch of parts for a number of years, in case something like this happens. They also continue to make consumables (like oil & air filters) for people like me who insist on buying OEM parts (because I found out the hard way - pattern ones aren't always as good as they're supposed to be......) Current weather conditions...... Well, today it's sunny where I live, but I'll assume you meant pissing down with rain.... On a Cruiser, you'll want mostly front brake (remember to brake progressively) but do consider a bit of back brake to bring the weight back on line. Remember too, to allow a greater stopping distance in the wet. DO NOT brake when you're on diesel. I mean a BIG bit, not the tiny 2" spots. If you have to brake, roll off the throttle and wait until you're past the diesel. You so much as touch the front when going over large patches, you'll hit the deck before you even realise you're going down!! The only time you should brake on diesel is if you're about to hit something more dangerous... like a car!! Excellent advice...how do u spot a diesel slip .??? does it have the same rainbow effect of petrol??? cool so keep a good ratio on the brakes but use front more!!?? I really cant wait to get this thing back im like a kid a christmas
Ttaskmaster Posted November 11, 2008 Posted November 11, 2008 Excellent advice...how do u spot a diesel slip .??? does it have the same rainbow effect of petrol??? cool so keep a good ratio on the brakes but use front more!!?? Yes. In fact petrol evaporates rather quickly, so chances are you're seeing diesel anyway, particularly after a lot of rain. Ratio will actually vary depending on what is needed. Progressive braking is the key, though.
dragstar_125 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Posted November 11, 2008 Yes. In fact petrol evaporates rather quickly, so chances are you're seeing diesel anyway, particularly after a lot of rain. Ratio will actually vary depending on what is needed. Progressive braking is the key, though. nice so start braking early nice n light...thats what i had been doing....would u use both brakes at the same time??? any dangers of using the back brake only??? ....can you tell me about clutch control when breaking ....and when cruising along
mattkett Posted November 11, 2008 Posted November 11, 2008 I reckon you're getting a good deal from a good dealership there. I wouldn't have thought replacing the crank was absolutely necessary, unless they've had it out and it's cabbaged of course. But it is the honest thing to do on a warranty repair job. Dragstar 125 is an awesome choice buddy; you're gonna love it. 'Course, I am a teeny bit biased... Too much rear brake and there's a danger the rear will lock and start a slide which, trust me, is REALLY scary! Think pedal bike slides, but at much higher speeds with cars around that aren't paying attention. *shudder*
Ttaskmaster Posted November 11, 2008 Posted November 11, 2008 nice so start braking early nice n light...thats what i had been doing....would u use both brakes at the same time??? any dangers of using the back brake only??? ....can you tell me about clutch control when breaking ....and when cruising along Progressive braking - Start gentle and gradually increase firmness. Obviously do it in time to stop, but don't slam the brake on. Learn to transfer to the rear brake as you come to a stop. This will prevent that sudden jerk. As Matt states, standing on the rear brake may very well boot the back wheel out from under you. The only exception is cornering - If you're banked over, using the front will kick the back wheel out and you will crash. You can use some gentle back brake, but this will change your line inward and stand the bike upright somewhat. Both brakes - Yes. Emergency stop. This should have been covered in your CBT. It definitely will in DAS!! In an emergency, apply a touch of front, then firmly apply the back as you progressively increase braking on the front. Do not grab. In poor conditions or at low speed, you may wish to apply more rear. Clutch control while braking: As the revs drop to a low burble, release the throttle, pull the clutch in, drop a gear and let the clutch out gently. This is deliberate engine braking. Repeat until you are in first. Pull the clutch all the way in just before you come to a complete stop. Obviously only done when braking normally. Cruising along: None, really. Just shift gear normally.
dragstar_125 Posted November 11, 2008 Author Posted November 11, 2008 Progressive braking - Start gentle and gradually increase firmness. Obviously do it in time to stop, but don't slam the brake on. Learn to transfer to the rear brake as you come to a stop. This will prevent that sudden jerk. As Matt states, standing on the rear brake may very well boot the back wheel out from under you. The only exception is cornering - If you're banked over, using the front will kick the back wheel out and you will crash. You can use some gentle back brake, but this will change your line inward and stand the bike upright somewhat. Both brakes - Yes. Emergency stop. This should have been covered in your CBT. It definitely will in DAS!! In an emergency, apply a touch of front, then firmly apply the back as you progressively increase braking on the front. Do not grab. In poor conditions or at low speed, you may wish to apply more rear. Clutch control while braking: As the revs drop to a low burble, release the throttle, pull the clutch in, drop a gear and let the clutch out gently. This is deliberate engine braking. Repeat until you are in first. Pull the clutch all the way in just before you come to a complete stop. Obviously only done when braking normally. Cruising along: None, really. Just shift gear normally. excellent advice thanks very much....hope to get pics upsoon
Moderator Goff Posted November 11, 2008 Moderator Posted November 11, 2008 Why does everyone keep agreeing with me? I'm a pretentious cock!!!! yes, yes you are...... BUT - you're OUR pretentious cock and i like you anyways
dragstar_125 Posted November 12, 2008 Author Posted November 12, 2008 yes, yes you are...... BUT - you're OUR pretentious cock and i like you anyways HAHA Goff has got a point there taskmaster!!! your a legend!!!! GOFF still looking hot chick!!!!
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