meanie Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 I am a born again, bought a 2002 FZS 600 done 34000 great fun for the summer but ready for an fz1 now. Anyway I have been using a silicone based dry lube and was pleased with it because no flick, however I now seem to have developed a tight spot on the chain. I do not know what miles the chain has done, but there is bags of adjustment left and the sprockets seem in good shape, my first thought was to replace. Do you think it is worth first trying to clean well, and then try running it with wet lube? Am I risking doing any further damage to bearings? And secondly what are your feelings on silicone based dry lubes as opposed to wet lubes? As ever you opinions would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gas up - Let's Go! Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 I am a born again, bought a 2002 FZS 600 done 34000 great fun for the summer but ready for an fz1 now. Anyway I have been using a silicone based dry lube and was pleased with it because no flick, however I now seem to have developed a tight spot on the chain. I do not know what miles the chain has done, but there is bags of adjustment left and the sprockets seem in good shape, my first thought was to replace. Do you think it is worth first trying to clean well, and then try running it with wet lube? Am I risking doing any further damage to bearings? And secondly what are your feelings on silicone based dry lubes as opposed to wet lubes? As ever you opinions would be appreciated. You should be able to work out the tight spot, soak it in chain oil and work the joint, it should free up. If you are in any doubt about it, you really should go and speak to the dealer, advice is <mostley> free. Last thing you want is a snapped chain. I had one on a ZZR I had a few years ago, made a right mess of the engine and the rear end of the bike. as luck would have it the bike had just been service, so after a bit of an exchange the dealer sorted it all out FOC. Not been back there since! The problem with dry lube is that the chain needs to be warm for it to work right. It's basicaly wax and needs to reach a certain temp before it starts to flow. You should lubricate your chain after/during the ride, rather than before it, while the chain is still hot. Wet oils tend to fly off and it gets everywhere, and it can be messy to get off the bodywork, wheels, number plate etc. The problem you have is more probably down to lack of lubricant, rather than a failure of it. Personally, I stick with a ScottOiler. It is a constant drip of oil to the chain and after 9500 miles on this bike I still have had no need to adjust the chain, and it still looks like new with no visible wear to the sprockets. For the £70 quid or so, it's well worth the investment, after all it's only 7 cans of decent chain lube ! On the trail bike I run wet lube, but clean and re-apply after every ride. Then again this is a different situation as it's normally covered in mud/sand/sh't or has been washed away in a river somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 ScottOiler That was all I was going to say Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
square box Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 Get a scottoiler. I did 65,000mls on my Honda and didn't have one, changed to a Yamaha in March had one put on and I can't believe the ease of it. Just had my 6000mls service and they adjusted the chain for the first time! Work out the figures if you buy 10 cans of lube you have paid for a scottoiler Square Box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsley1000 Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 Get a scottoiler. I did 65,000mls on my Honda and didn't have one, changed to a Yamaha in March had one put on and I can't believe the ease of it. Just had my 6000mls service and they adjusted the chain for the first time! Work out the figures if you buy 10 cans of lube you have paid for a scottoiler Square Box Hi when you say a tight spot, do you mean ,at some pont the whole chain gets tight or you have a thight link? if its a tight link then as above, but if the whole chain get tight as if its be over adusted, it will be a hores shoe link, if you get the back wheel of the ground, turn it untill it gets tight, the link will be just getting on to the rear cog, if this is so, take the link out , & bin it, replaes with a rivet one, hores shoe's a crap,& must not be relaed on ,Parsley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsley1000 Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 Hi when you say a tight spot, do you mean ,at some pont the whole chain gets tight or you have a thight link? if its a tight link then as above, but if the whole chain get tight as if its be over adusted, it will be a hores shoe link, if you get the back wheel of the ground, turn it untill it gets tight, the link will be just getting on to the rear cog, if this is so, take the link out , & bin it, replaes with a rivet one, hores shoe's a crap,& must not be relaed on ,Parsley Ment to say, to see if your sprockets are geting worn, spin the wheel backwards, the chain should sound the same as spining forward, to see if chain is worn, you should not be able to lift the chain off the back sprocket, ie- pull the chain at abt the 3 a clock poss, toward the back of ya bike, it should'nt move ,the more it move,the more shaged it is, Parsley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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