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o-ring chain, to lube or not to lube


G-man
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Guest Exupnutta

Umm parafin is a wax not an oil. It's often used to seal homemade jam and such. It's also used as hand and foot soak. When used for a chain (traditional not o-ring) it's often used with motor oil and of course hot. Maybe you refer to kerosene as parafin on your side of the pond? I have never heard that use on this side myself.

I have no idea what you guys did with the english language this time, but I'm not eating round your house :lol:

Seriously though... You know the parts washers you get in workshops... They have paraffin in them. Great for cleaning gunked up parts, but it attacks some rubbers and makes them swell. Once it does this, the rubber is useless.

Also Parafin STINKS... Not sure why anyone would go near food with it.... unless you're making petrol head jam? :lol:

Horrible stuff. Highly Flamable! :unsure:

Click here to see what I mean by Parts washer. I have the smaller one on that page at home. In a big workshop you would use the bigger one or even a 50-60 gallon version with a drum underneath. Because it is highly flamable the Parts Washers are desinged with a hinged lid, to be closed in the event of fire.

I hope some of this makes sense :)

Regards,

Olli

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I have no idea what you guys did with the english language this time, but I'm not eating round your house :lol:

Seriously though... You know the parts washers you get in workshops... They have paraffin in them. Great for cleaning gunked up parts, but it attacks some rubbers and makes them swell. Once it does this, the rubber is useless.

Also Parafin STINKS... Not sure why anyone would go near food with it.... unless you're making petrol head jam? :lol:

Horrible stuff. Highly Flamable! :unsure:

Click here to see what I mean by Parts washer. I have the smaller one on that page at home. In a big workshop you would use the bigger one or even a 50-60 gallon version with a drum underneath. Because it is highly flamable the Parts Washers are desinged with a hinged lid, to be closed in the event of fire.

Make sense but generally using those types of cleaners is not allowed over here, especially in shops. Safety regs require the use of non-flamable cleaners in most cases, even though they don't work as well.

Obviously we are talking about two different things, one being Kerosene, a type of fuel oil which can be used as a cleaner/solvent and the other being candle wax, used for sealing canned food and sometimes as a semi dry lube. Kesosene (parafin to you blokes) is also pretty close to jet fuel so I wouldn't want it anywhere near food either. Parafin (wax) on the other hand tends to be food grade and used in canning, and in beauty salons to soften hand/feet (in it's melted form of course).

I learned back in the 70's to use it with motor oil to boil/simmer the drive chain in the provide long lasting lubrication that as well as lubricating well also protects against water/rust and tends to attract little to no dirt.

I think it would be easer in many cased if the languages were not as close together as they are since they are right about different enough to make communication even harder than it could be. This of course was done as I understand it in the early days of the separation specifically to not use the kings english. Seems silly I know, but it's what we're stuck with now, not a whole lot we can do about it now.

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"G-man, please let this thread die!!!" *wank, wanky wank-wank...wanky*

"No." replies G-man.

Milestone: 1000 miles on the chain with nothing but the dubya-d for cleaning and lube. Lookin' good, baby!

pimpin.jpg

PIMPIN'

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Guest Exupnutta

Milestone: 1000 miles on the chain with nothing but the dubya-d for cleaning and lube. Lookin' good, baby!

How much power are you running and what size chain is it?

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Guest Exupnutta

360cc engine (ok, 358cc if you wanna get nerdy technical about it).

530 o-ring chain.

To explain... THIS is your bike:

General information

Model: Yamaha XS 360

Year: 1977

Category: Classic

Engine and transmission

Displacement: 358.00 ccm (21.85 cubic inches)

Engine type: Twin

Stroke: 4

Power: 27.00 HP (19.7 kW)) @ 8000 RPM

Compression: 8.7:1

Bore x stroke: 66.0 x 52.4 mm (2.6 x 2.1 inches)

Valves per cylinder: 2

Fuel control: OHC

Cooling system: Air

Gearbox: 6-speed

Transmission type

final drive: Chain

More details Consult a Yamaha repair manual.

Physical measures

Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 176.0 kg (388.0 pounds)

Chassis and dimensions

Front tyre dimensions: 3.00-18

Rear tyre dimensions: 3.50-18

Front brakes: Single disc

Rear brakes: Single disc

Speed and acceleration

Top speed: 145.0 km/h (90.1 mph)

Other specifications

Fuel capacity: 11.00 litres (2.91 gallons)

THIS is mine...

General information

Model: Yamaha FZR 1000

Year: 1992

Category: Sport touring

Engine and transmission

Displacement: 1002.00 ccm (61.14 cubic inches)

Engine type: In-line four

Stroke: 4

Power: 145.00 HP (105.8 kW)) @ 10000 RPM

Compression: 12.0:1

Bore x stroke: 75.5 x 56.0 mm (3.0 x 2.2 inches)

Valves per cylinder: 5

Fuel control: DOHC

Cooling system: Liquid

Gearbox: 5-speed

Transmission type

final drive: Chain

More details Consult a Yamaha repair manual.

Physical measures

Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 236.0 kg (520.3 pounds)

Chassis and dimensions

Front tyre dimensions: 130/60-17

Rear tyre dimensions: 170/60-17

Front brakes: Dual disc

Rear brakes: Single disc

Speed and acceleration

Other specifications

Fuel capacity: 19.00 litres (5.02 gallons)

So you see I'm running more than 5 times the power through the same size chain!

Those are standard specs. My bike is tuned, so probably nearer to 6 times the power and nearly twice the top speed!

I think my chain would be ratteling like a bag of nails by now without lube :o;)

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PMSL now I know what bike G-Man rides, not that I'm knocking the bike .. just that it puts a whole different persepective on his argument and as I said earlier in the thread:

"It's probably fine for some little chuggalong but not for an R1 or R6 etc."

something with 27bhp running with a 530 chain definately isn't going to wear chain/sprockets down very quickly at all !

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Wow, you boys are quick! ...On your bikes, at least. My motorcycle is listed every time I post, to the left, just under the flag. Same with you.

I have no dog in the race in terms of FZR's or R6's, but I'll still require actual PROOF before I bow down to your logic, even as it applies to your manly scoots.

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Guest Exupnutta

Wow, you boys are quick! ...On your bikes, at least. My motorcycle is listed every time I post, to the left, just under the flag. Same with you.

I just thought I would double check, since my OH's GSXR400 produces around 53HP. I didn't want to comment without the full facts. :)

I have no dog in the race in terms of FZR's or R6's, but I'll still require actual PROOF before I bow down to your logic, even as it applies to your manly scoots.

You will probably get 20000 miles or so out of your chain (no matter what you do or don't do to it), but for those with bigger bikes I would expect the chain and sprockets to be ready for the bin in less than 3000 miles without lube (quite expensive :o ). On a big bike, the chain gets too hot to touch (friction) after a blast in the countryside.

It's a completely different matter, as the heat generated causes the metal to become soft and therefore increase wear!

The XS is a lovely bike and I hope you have many years of fun with it :)

Ride safe,

Olli

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Are your sprockets aluminum? That won't help matters, either.

But anyways, there is lube...wd-40 will lubricate your drive so long as it's applied more frequently.

My Jedi sense tells me your bike wants to try wd-40 on its chain, too. Luke, come to the dark side, muaahahahahaha.

vader.jpg

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Guest Exupnutta

Are your sprockets aluminum? That won't help matters, either.

But anyways, there is lube...wd-40 will lubricate your drive so long as it's applied more frequently.

I'm running steel sprockets :)... they still wear big time though, since the bike and I weigh over 300kg :o

The FZR1000 EXUP has a lot of low rev torque and goes like a train in any gear. This rapid acceleration translates into wear, because of high friction build up in the drive train. Chain lube helps to keep the chain cooler by reducing the friction. WD-40 would be gone, by the time I get to the end of my road :D I really wouldn't get very far. :(

I use Castrol Chain Wax, which doesn't fling and I do this at the end of a ride out (200 miles or so).

It's best to do it straight after you get back, because the chain is still warm, so the wax can penetrate properly and the chain is also easier to clean when warm.

I clean the bike before the next ride out and do my tyre pressures just before I leave :)

My Jedi sense tells me your bike wants to try wd-40 on its chain, too. Luke, come to the dark side, muaahahahahaha.

vader.jpg

LMFAO :lol:

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Why you laugh? Are you making fun of my ballistic vinyl riding pants? I'll have you know, they work well, but only in a galaxy far, far away.

I still say that if you're gonna get real value from your chain routine, you outta be doing it more often than every 200 miles. That be where I'm at. But ok, I'll concede that bigger, higher revving engines may not like the taste of the sweet sweet Dubya-D.

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