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sticky brake


2enjoi2
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hey, i woke up this morning after taking my new toy out on its first wet run. and it wouldnt budge, turns out the front brakes were stuck. the guy i bouhgt it off of said they had new brake pads.

is this normal b4 they are bedded in? or is it to do with the rainwater? or was i just told a porky and i need new brake pads?

cheers

david

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Hi David,

if the guy you bought it off said that it had been fitted with new pads and when you where riding it they didn't squeal then it probably did, if you look at the disc's where the calipers fit you should be able to see the pads and see how much pad is left before the backing plate touches the disc, what has probably happened is that the pistons on the calipers have got a little rusty due to the old pads being worn and now new pads have been fitted and the pistons are right back in again they are just sticking slightly. This should wear off soon as you are useing the bike if not it will mean stripping down the calipers and cleaning the pistons and fitting new seals. but as a first step you could try changing the brake fluid as the other possability if the bike has been left for a while is the master cylinder is sticking.

hope this helps

regards Bill

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The brakes stuck when the piston in the calliper is far out of its limits (when the pads are done the piston has to come out mush further) When this hapens you should see the brake oil level too low, and probably you will have to change the sealing O-rings of the brake piston...

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Disc brakes and bikes are for the most part the same concept: and if the guy you bought it from mentioned that he did the brake job himself, then I can almost guarantee you that he did not bleed the brakes. The calipers adjust to low brake pads and the pistons constantly squeeze tighter to make up for the lack of brake pad material. When you put new pads in, you have to bleed the system to get the pistons back to their original position and adjust for the new brake pad width.

If he failed to do this, then the pads are constantly pressing against your rotor and will A) not move or B)if it rolls; wear out those fancy new pads real damn quick!

Hope this helped, check your manual on how to bleed the brakes

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Disc brakes and bikes are for the most part the same concept: and if the guy you bought it from mentioned that he did the brake job himself, then I can almost guarantee you that he did not bleed the brakes. The calipers adjust to low brake pads and the pistons constantly squeeze tighter to make up for the lack of brake pad material. When you put new pads in, you have to bleed the system to get the pistons back to their original position and adjust for the new brake pad width.

If he failed to do this, then the pads are constantly pressing against your rotor and will A) not move or B)if it rolls; wear out those fancy new pads real damn quick!

Hope this helped, check your manual on how to bleed the brakes

well when i change pads (car or bike) i push the pistons back (the fluid returns to the mc) and put the new pads in, this avoids the need to bleed the system as no air will have entered.

i then pump the brake lever to get new pads in proximity to the disk.

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well when i change pads (car or bike) i push the pistons back (the fluid returns to the mc) and put the new pads in, this avoids the need to bleed the system as no air will have entered.

i then pump the brake lever to get new pads in proximity to the disk.

OK, that is definitely a better way... I am actually going to do that from now on, the next time i change my own brakes... this topic helped me probably more than the starter... :lol:

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you say that the previous owner changed the pads, I wonder if he wore the last pads to the limit? If so then when fitting the new pads they might not of allowed for excess brake fluid in the master cylinder (which happens when it is topped up during services). When fitting new pads you are supposed to remove the top of the master cylinder & put a rag around it to absorb the excess fluid (so it don't dribble over your paint job) incase it overflows. The easy way round the problem is put a (correct sized) hose over the bleed nipple on 1 of the front calipers & loosen it (the bleed nipple), pull the brake lever in (allowing some fluid to escape safely), with the lever held in tighten the bleed nipple then let go. This should then correct (to a point) the amount of pressure in the system. Which in turn allows the brakes to let go of the discs when the lever is released.

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Not forced to be anything to do with it having had new pads or need bleeding.

I ride my R6 all weathers and if the bikes had a good soaking then if I leave it stood for a day or 2 .. or even just overnight then the next time I come to move it out the garage the pads have stuck to the disc's .. I just give the bike a shove and it breaks the bond between pads/disc's and it's fine. (I've had the same thing more than this bike as well).

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OK, that is definitely a better way... I am actually going to do that from now on, the next time i change my own brakes... this topic helped me probably more than the starter... :lol:

Additionally the brakes should be bled anyways when the pads are changed because the system is not sealed and brake fluid collects water from the air over time. It's always best to just bleed them till the fluid is clear each time you service the brakes.

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