Rusted gas tank(how much should it cost to clean?)

[Gnash]

I just bought another bike for $100! 81 Honda CM400C with 10,000 miles. The bike was parked in a garage for 10 years. I gave the carbs a cleaning, and the bike just started right up! I used my Yamaha gas tank to start it. The Honda's gas tank is full of rust inside. I was quoted $100 to clean and coat it at a local shop. Does this price sound right? Can I do it myself? Thanks

[xtonyx]

theres a few threads on here about it if you search..

yes, $100 sounds reasonable. time costs money.

yes, you can do it yourself.

most people use a solvent (toluene, thinner, acetone, kerosene, etc..) mixed with an abrasive (bb's, ball bearings, various nuts and bolts). you need a liquid and something to knock the rust loose. put it all in the tank and shake it up for a while (5, 10, 30 minutes?) until its clean to your liking. after that it's a matter of using your choice of paint. i've seen the word "kreem" or something like that slung around.

You can also try another method, which requires less shaking but a little more prep work. POR-15 sells a fuel tank kit which includes por15, a metal prep solution, and some other things. Shake or vac out any loose debris. pour in the metal prep, let sit for a bit, rinse it out with like a cup of water, let dry, pour in por15 and shake it around until you think you have a nice even coat.. drain any excess.. let dry.

[Gnash]

Thanks man! For $100, I may have it done, since the tank is in perfect shape outside.

[jrhendryx]

Thanks man! For $100, I may have it done, since the tank is in perfect shape outside.

keep in mind, most places you take it to have it cleaned/lined are going to chem dip it... this will remove all of the rust, but it will also destroy the paint.

also, most radiator shops (like the one i just had a replacement tank lined at) have a policy that says "not responsible to damage to motorcycle gas tanks" to cover themselves on the paint or any dents it might get from being dropped or not handled very gently.

im happy with my results since i was planning on repainting it anyway.

[road_rascal]

I just bought another bike for $100! 81 Honda CM400C with 10,000 miles.

I love deals like this. I bought the 1999 Yamaha Razz scooter (600 miles) for $745 and the 1982 XS400J Maxim (8300 miles) for $725. Barn finds are the best.

[Gnash]

Oh yeah, I really scored on this one. Besides the spun bearing and the rust in the tank, the bike doesn't need anything else! I bought my 83 XS400 from the same man at the same time. I bought the yamaha for $175 and the honda for $100!!!!! The Yamaha just needed a carb cleaning and I've been riding it everyday since!!!! He has a 92 FZR600 for $500 that I'm going up for next!!!!

[Strange]

I just bought another bike for $100! 81 Honda CM400C with 10,000 miles. The bike was parked in a garage for 10 years. I gave the carbs a cleaning, and the bike just started right up! I used my Yamaha gas tank to start it. The Honda's gas tank is full of rust inside. I was quoted $100 to clean and coat it at a local shop. Does this price sound right? Can I do it myself? Thanks

[Strange]

Hi there. If you go to this website..www.frost.co.uk they do a motorcycle tank repair kit which gives you the means to clean and seal your tank for about £35. You have 2 rust cleaners and a ceramic coating which will remove all the rust, and then seal the tank to prevent further problems. It take about 5 days from start to finish, is really easy to do and it works.

hope this helps.

[Gnash]

Thanks Strange!!

[Chicken]

Hi Gnash!

I love finds like that too. I bought by '83 xs400 for $500 and I love it. I ride it everyday!

Before I bought my xs400 I bought a super cheap Honda CB650 Custom that I was going to try and restore. The gas tank was a rusty nightmare. I went to my local bike shop and bought a Kreem tank repair and seal kit. It cost me about $30. It's a bit messy and is kind of a pain in the a** but it works great. Just about any bike shop should have it. Good luck!

[knight]

Hi Gansh,

I may be late to be of help kinda as you may have already worked on your bike's tank, well in my case I used the electrolysis method and it worked very well, unfortunately where I live,we don't get the anti-rust like the keerm or its supplement rust treatment.Anti-rust is highly recomended to be used after this process(electrolysis) has been done, but well atleast I am having some times of rust free fuel in the bike's tank and carbs too, I have also fixed in-line filter.I hope along with this the image has come ...if not let me know and will post it .

Cheers!,

Knight.

(the image hasn't come ..and am not yet familiar on this site as to how one can upload the images ,so anyones assistantance in explaining me as to how its done will be appreciated.) :-)

The process is called KEN'S ELECTROLYSIS .. and as per his instructions herebelow:-

Tried out electrolysis on my rust fuel tank and she cleaned right up. For those of you who are on a budget it will cost you next to nothing to clean your tank. First of all you will need a plastic 5 gallon bucket, add 1/2 cup of Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. This is important it’s Washing Soda not baking soda (see note 1 below). Fill the bucket with water and mix it well. Pull the tank and drain the fuel. Remove the petcock and wash out the tank with lots of water. Fashion a cover to block the petcock orifice. I used a strip of 1/8" aluminum and used an old inner tube as a gasket. I set the tank on a piece of carpet and blocked it up to get it as level as possible. I then filled the tank with the washing soda solution. Then I took a coat hanger and fashion the sacrificial anode. You say what???? Ok this is the trickiest part of the procedure.

A little background on how electrolysis works (see actual photos below):

Its very simple really. As current passes through an object it moves from negative to positive, so what you are doing is passing a current through the rust on the tank, which breaks its bond, and the rust then flows and attaches itself to the positive charge on the sacrificial anode. Or at least it releases the rust from the tank and floats around in the washing soda solution. The idea with the sacrificial anode is to insure that it does not touch the tank anywhere, you must insure it only come in contact with the washing soda solution or you will have a direct short.

For my project I found a nice little plastic cap and drilled two 1/8" holes in it about 1" apart. I then took the coat hanger and bent it over and over until I had four loops on one end that spread about 1" when grouped together (see fig. 1 below). Think about the business end of a fork that you eat with, that’s what it should look like. Then about 4" back from the business end of the fork make a 90-degree bend in the two wires and run them up through the plastic cap. Put the sacrificial anode into the tank and spin it around to insure the anode is not hitting anywhere on the tank (no short circuits) (see fig 2 below). Then using a 12-volt battery charger hook the positive lead to the sacrificial anode and the negative lead to the fuel tank. I used the mounting flange that sits under the seat (see figs 3 and 4 below). Let her cook for several days. Mine took three days. I pulled the anode twice a day and cleaned it with a wire brush. I have a small battery charger so it may take less time with a larger charger. Anyway my tank is back on and this morning I rode her into work and she never skipped a beat.

Update: Some of you have asked what did you coat the tank with to stop further rusting? Nothing. It’s bare metal. Some of you guys have suggested two ways of coating the tank. 1. Use phosphoric acid and slosh it around to coat the tank. 2. Use POR-15, I have heard this is the stuff to use. I was also told to stay away from Kreem. The Suzuki T-500 I own had a fuel tank coated in Kreem and it is crap, so I would agree.

-Ken for questions, email me at [email protected]

Note 1: ARM & HAMMER® Super Washing Soda is 100% sodium carbonate and is used as a laundry booster and general household cleaner. ARM & HAMMER® Baking Soda is 100% sodium bicarbonate and has a myriad of household cleaning, personal care, and deodorizing uses, as well as being a leavening agent.

Note from Clay: The photos are mine. I used this method on rather rusty Kawasaki tank I had, and it worked wonderfully. I lined this tank with the Yamaha brand tank rust remover/protector (about $14.00 at my local dealer) and it is holding up well.

[Gnash]

I will definately try this method! Thanks again guys!

[Airhead]

(the image hasn't come ..and am not yet familiar on this site as to how one can upload the images ,so anyones assistantance in explaining me as to how its done will be appreciated.) :-)

• Open a photobucket account
  
• Upload your pics there
  
• with each pic you will see four fields
  
• Copy the IMG field
  
• Paste into the forum