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Replacing ignition switch Divvy 600 (S model) 1997


stoot
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Hello to you all. I am having real probs with my switch, and having checked the haynes manual all seemed to be fairly simple procedure. Now having bought the switch and looked at the bike, the switch is held not with Phillips screws as the manual says, but bolts whose head snap off when torqued up. So, it means having to drill them and use an 'Eazeout'. Has anyone done this job before, and do you have any tips on how to go about it?

I use my bike for work, so cannot have it off the road more than 2 days. Any idea as to the size of the bolts and torque pressure (I aint ever used these before)I will have to buy before starting?

Any help appreciated, take care, stoot

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Stoot:

Use a nail (or similar) with a hammer, obviously, to try to drive a small dent into the bolt that you want to remove.

Then use a decent HSS drill bit to drill about 5-10mm into the bolt, using the initial dent as a guide or the drill bit will wander all over the place...

Insert the easy-out and move it slowly and firmly and try to make sure it goes in straight, not at an angle. The high strength steel of the easy out will cut into the bolt, and the Left hand thread means that as it tightens eventually the bolt will loosen and unscrew. If the easy out cuts a 'dish' out of the top of the bolt, move down to a smaller easy out and try again, perhaps with another little bit of drilling into the bolt. Try to get the drill centre of the bolt, if too far to one side the easy out may damage the threads of the recess, you don't want that.

For replacement bolts, can order originals off the local Yam dealer or just get some standard bolts and tighten them up.

Paul

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Stoot:

Use a nail (or similar) with a hammer, obviously, to try to drive a small dent into the bolt that you want to remove.

Then use a decent HSS drill bit to drill about 5-10mm into the bolt, using the initial dent as a guide or the drill bit will wander all over the place...

Insert the easy-out and move it slowly and firmly and try to make sure it goes in straight, not at an angle. The high strength steel of the easy out will cut into the bolt, and the Left hand thread means that as it tightens eventually the bolt will loosen and unscrew. If the easy out cuts a 'dish' out of the top of the bolt, move down to a smaller easy out and try again, perhaps with another little bit of drilling into the bolt. Try to get the drill centre of the bolt, if too far to one side the easy out may damage the threads of the recess, you don't want that.

For replacement bolts, can order originals off the local Yam dealer or just get some standard bolts and tighten them up.

Paul

Ta for that. I was wondering if there were any unexpected problems that would maybe appear. I will go ahead as described, taking off the yoke and going ahead that way on an upright machine. As you said, i do not see any reason for these bolts, so will use standard for this. take care, Stoot

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  • 2 weeks later...

Feedback on the completed job.

Definately makes it easier with 2 people.

It was not anywhere near as bad as it could have been. I do not see any need to remove the fairing. Unbolt the bars, loosen off the Steering stem nut, then prise off the Yoke. Disconnect the electrics and you have the complete unit to work with. It is awkward to grip in a vice, but workable. I drilled a small pilot hole, then followed it with an oversized drill. You only have to go down maybe 3 cm and the 'shoulder' which is keeping it together clears, and the switch came away from the yoke. Then you are left with 2 studs!! 2 nuts locked together, and out come the studs. I then just put 2 ordinary bolts back- sorry not sure of the size, and used loctite on them. Easy to reassemble also. If you do have to do this job, I would give myself extra time and check the Steering Head bearings at the same time. (I did not!) All this took 4 hours to complete. A bit of faffing about too!! Hope you do not get this problem, but if you do this is of some help to somebody along the way. Take care, Stoot.

I

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