All Activity

In all honesty, and within limits, the length of the spring won't matter. What will matter is its strength... A couple of mm either way in length won't matter, but a thicker or thinner wire will (it's not the length, it's the girth!!!). It may even be the case that the slightly longer ones are 'upgraded' ones, or just 3rd party and not quite in spec. If you're really worried or suspicious, go to your local Authorised Yamaha Dealer and get them to order you a set for your specific bike. It may cost a few quid more, but you're guaranteed they'll get the right ones..! And just to answer your questions directly..: 1/ My Haynes manual suggest 36.4mm. The problem with Haynes is that the bikes they take apart for the manuals aren't new (one assumes that would cost a lot to disassemble a brand new bike), so measurements that small may be... Slightly off... 2/ My manual I downloaded suggests 34.9mm. WHAT manual? I trust nothing off the interwebz completely! 3/ The ones I got from Yambits are 34.7mm. Yambits are usually pretty good and I use them a lot, but I did get some petrol tap seals from them that were VERY much oversized (thickness) and were useless (so fat they locked up my tap). 4/ Ones for sale on Autodoc suggest 36mm. Never heard of Autodoc...

Did you get it off? Was it completely different to the above? or was my post helpful?

Interesting Digger, I don't know the correct length, but I do know it's probably best not to mix and match different springs. ..........Having said that, had I been doing the clutch back in the 70's/80's I wouldn't have cared about the length or even mix and matching them!!, as long as they weren't broken! and I would have ridden the bike regardless......and I suspect everything would have been fine. Today, I might be a bit more cautious like yourself and try and get the right lengths. although as long as they are all the same, will 1.7mm (the difference between the smallest and largest) make a big difference? I don't sound much help!!.....I'll shut up!

Picked up 2 DT175C’s. Bought new points just in case. After a serious decrudding one looks decent and seems to be running ok. The other may need points and a timing adjustment. I had a DT250 in the 70’s and I’m sure made these adjustments but now I need guidance and a simple way to get this done. I do have a timing light and a new set of points.

Hi guys it’s me again. i’m just trying to find out what the correct length of the clutch springs are for my 1978 dt250mx. my Haynes manual suggest 36.4mm. my manual I downloaded suggests 34.9mm. the ones I got from yambits are 34.7mm. ones for sale on autodoc suggest 36mm thanks in advance

That's handy, cheers

sorry for not being on here in a while. There is a face book group page called yamaha xsr125 uk join the group then search in the files folder there is an array of different pdf's to download including the elusive service manual lol. hope this helps.

Okay, here's how it works, how a single bolt can remove the rotor. Its different to the DT magneto which has a full length tapered shaft. The XS 250 has a part threaded section within the rotor body. N.B. the normal short bolt with its washer, holds it all in place.

So basically it seems you take out this retaining bolt and replace it with a longer bolt which pops off the Rotor.

I'm not giving up!!....been on Google... looked at the XS400 forum which states it's for the XS250 and XS400 bikes... various searches there suggest the puller is just a bolt The rotor puller Yamaha part number is 90890-01080. It's an M16x1.5 bolt. member Drewpy (is he the same?) says don't use a '3 jaw" puller as you'll f*** up the rotor. another member describes the procedure... Remove the retention bolt that you still have in the photo from the center of the rotor, screw the bigger bolt into the rotor while holding the rotor stationary (manual recommends a special wrench), and rotate the rotor puller/bolt into the rotor. It'll pop off. Cmsnl sell one..https://www.cmsnl.com/products/pullerrotor_9089001080/ hope thats of some help?

looks like we might be getting somewhere....this puller on ebay, specifies for a XS250, although maybe that's several tools in the kit? Hope that's of some help mate. and here's an XS250 Rotor on ebay, ? which suggests a deep internal thread?

In a different post the original poster has stated he can't use this method of puller as the rotor does not have an internal thread. So I did a bit of googling, and came up with this, now i know its not for the XS250 but i wonder if the principle is likely to be the same as this tool is for a Rotor without the internal thread....just a thought. Not quite sure how it works though as this screws onto the shaft but its not threaded on the outside either , unlike my DT one first suggested.

There is no internal thread in the rotor on the XS250. So, obviously I can't do that.

Duplicate post.........We've already answered this!

I don't normally get that deep into engines, but if you could supply some pictures...

Anyone got any idea how I can get the rotor off the crankshaft. I have tried heat a gear puller, levering, all with no luck. Any help would be great.

You Sir get the Platinum medal today lol Shoot.... thanks for the link. I normally get my gear from Wemoto ...... they are double that price https://www.wemoto.com/bike/yamaha/fj/1200/1992/28776/ignition-coil

Hehehe, yeah I know about the one hit wonders. I can assure you I'm not but so far I've done 17K problem free miles on this tank with nothing to report. Thanks anyway

....and the crowd roared...Dutch takes the Gold...

Does it have an immobiliser?

Have a ybr 125 09 plate turn key and will try to start but will not fire up stator cdi HD coils plug have all been changed but still won't fire up have checked connections with multimeter wiring seems to be OK but there is no spark in plug and plug is dry any advice pls

He may well be right Dutch. I had something similar years ago on my 400/4, that has twin coils under the tank directly above the engine. One of them was playing up especially in hot weather. Heat from the engine and warm air from the environment was too much for it and it would often play up in the summer months. A replacement solved the problem. mind you it did take a long time to trace the cause!! Not expensive.. https://www.squaremotorcycleparts.co.uk/products/ignition-coil-yamaha-fj1200-fj-1200-1988-1994 worth doing for that price, and yours will be 32 years old already if original!!

Morning chaps, Been happening for a while now but more so when it gets hotter outside. Starts good when cold, drives and pulls like a train. My drive home takes 30 mins through some heavy traffic and filtering. When stopped at a traffic light or when I get home to open the gate the bike starts spluttering, misfiring and dies. At a a traffic light I have to keep the revs at or above 2000 rpm. Have looked at various forums but nothing conclusive ranging from carb settings, vacuum leaks etc. My bike shop guy has turned up the idle a bit and he thinks it may be the coils getting hot after a bit and might need to be replaced. Any ideas ?

That's good to know Dutch, glad you got it resolved. Plus many thanks for getting back with an update, far too many posts remain 'open' with never an update. For the effort you'll find your name on the leaderboard with a thanks from me, and being the Olympics you might even get a gold medal post! its early days, but you've got a silver medal now...another 'thanks' from someone else will knock me off the Gold!!