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I know about standard bulbs on bikes but not LED's, so go with Snakes posts for advice, however, i did a search on the forum using the search feature at the top and found quite a bit, but this post may be of some help, especially as snake also mentioned the bulb on the dashboard. see the last entry in this post.

Hihi, first off, welcome in... So... LED swaps aren't just straight forward... Ever... There are several questions that need answering before you get anywhere near an answer to this. 1/ Did you purchase a dedicated LED indicator upgrade for your particular bike? 2/ If not, did you just buy a cheap set of 4 LED indicators? 3/ If not, did you go the very cheap route and just buy 4 LED indicator 'bulbs' and replace them? 4/ Does your bike run on a 'CANBUS' (Controller Area Network) system? 5/ Did your install include a controller unit? There will be several more questions no doubt from more knowledgeable people, but that's your start... The fact that your indicators flash at the correct speed means that your bike isn't detecting the low power draw of the LEDs as a burned out bulb, which means either they're regulated or your replaced your indicator relay... 6/ Does your bike have a single turn signal indicator bulb on the dash or a right & left indicator? If it only has one indicator bulb on the dash, it's possible that you're getting a current leakage thru the shared turn signal indicator bulb. Removing this bulb and trying again will tell you if this is the problem. If it is, you need to install a diode in the bulb wiring...

Hi, I'm probably super daft for whatever I've done to the bike, I swapped out the bulbs for LED's after the bike fell and broke the originals, now the indicators turn on and blink at the right speed, but both sides do so simultaneously, regardless of what side I flick them onto. I've attempted to look for an answer but it all seems far too technical for my smooth brain and I need someone to dumb it down caveman style. I've seen some people saying it needs a relay? or other electronic part? Not entirely sure. Any help would be appreciated

Glad we could be of help..! lol Welcome in anyway.

found the details, thanks

Hi all Just picked up a great little barn find, DT175G 1980, which I'm hoping to have some fun on using TET mostly. Owned all manner of Yamaha's over the years, but never did have one of these - just admired them from afar. Needs a bit of TLC, but overall great condition and have got her up and running (neutral still a bit hard to find (LOL). No number plate or V5 though, so scratching my head a bit about how I get her back on the road. Gather I need to complete a V55 to register, but need some authority to sign off on the year, verify it is what I'm saying it is etc? Anyone got any advice as to best approach to take forwards and get V5? Thanks

And the same to you

That is good news Digger. Warped new plates who would have thought it?! Glad you're back on the road. Happy new Year to you, Safe riding.

Yey! Fixed..!

Hi guys sorry for the delay in responding. The reason I asked about the spring length was that for years I have had trouble engaging neutral. With engine switched off it was easy. I now can engage neutral easily. Culprit 2 warped clutch plates (brand new) replaced with 2 of the original plates and works brilliant. Thanks for the input.till next time.

See, that makes so much more sense than in the Appalachian mountains..! They did them in exactly the same pattern, but red too. But you're right, the Blue ones were far more common, and yet, if you look around for one these days, the blue ones are rare as hell!??! He should be up there at the top now, I've given him one too. For bikers, we have some strange views of 'exciting'... rofl

I had a quick google too Snake....it's in Scotland. Up in Aberdeenshire. Welcome in Crawford, from your intro I guess you must be in your early 60's. Which would be in keeping with the 250cc limit on a provisional. My first bike after I passed was a 175 and my friends had the RD250s, most of them were blue for some reason. Did they do any other colour? . Nice to have you on board. Happy new Year to you, or should I say Bliadhna Mhath Ùr? ............Yup, Google is indeed our friend! lets give you a reward for your post, for a bit of fun there is the ability to earn a gold , silver and bronze for your posts amd your name appears on the leaderboard on the main Forum page on the right, your name should be there as i gave you a 'like' for your first post! its almost exciting isn't it!

Banff... Had to google that! But I'm getting that it's in Canada. You don't sound like you're in Canada..? I'm going to go on the principle that you're in England and work from there! lol. In any event... Welcome in! At least you'll be able to do your DAS and not have to wibble through the rigmarole of going through the licence levels! It's cold at the moment, but at least that means you should have passed by the time the nice weather starts.

Hello from Banff. Working on an 97 sr125. Been riding a Honda NTV Trike the past few years and now want to return to 2 wheels but need to do the CBT first hence the sr125, should have don my bike test back in the days when you could ride a 250 on a provisional, but gave up biking for 40 years after my uncle was killed on my 20th birthday in a bike accident he was only 21 & he and I were like brothers. I'm excited to get out and ride and live again, so... here I am.

Happy Ne year Guys

Or, there's the expensive / buggeration option: When was the last time your valve gaps were done?

And here's me trying desperately not to spam the place up..!

...and just thinking, whilst we don't want to lose you, have you thought of joining the FJClub and asking them for advice? someone else may have had a similar fault. https://www.fjownersclub.co.uk/

Found you a service guide for your bike, looks like the ECU does give you fault code lights!! it states:- In this case, the memorized fault codes can be identified by putting the ECU into the diagnosis mode and using a circuit tester or the warning light page 13 onwards. I think reading through it, the ECU does the ABS and Ignition, either way worth a read or showing to your mechanic. We're not allowed to link to content elsewhere, so once you've had a look I'll re-edit my post and remove the link. https://www.fjclub.dk/katalog/1991-FJ1200-Service-Guide.pdf

..and the same to you Airhead, happy new year to you too. Shame the forums a lot quieter these days, i miss the banter that you all did. Weeks go by without any posts now.

Happy new year to you Dutch, sorry to hear that those coils I sourced didn't fit your bike and you ended up paying out for an OEM set, which still didn't cure your problem. I assume then that a 92 bike will be some sort of electronic ignition, bearing in mind my 78 DT does, albiet an early form. What's the carburation on it? is it carbs or fuel injectors? If this was a car ,which back then were mostly fuel injected, and the coil pack has been eliminated then the culprit would likely be the ECU. If it has an ECU then the fault codes are a series of flashes on the dashboard of cars from that era. You read them by putting in the key and counting the flash codes, which you then look up to find the corresponding fault code. I'm not saying for one minute that this will apply to your bike, just that codes were around in the early 90's on many vehicles, and were the predecessors to the ODB2 that you find on modern vehicles. Do any bulbs happen to flash/or LCD segments blink when you put the key in by chance?

I don't think they had invented codes yet in 1992

No codes?

Merry Xmas all, Sorry for the late update. I was locked out of my account and getting back in is like trying to get into Fort Knox. The saga continues. Anyhoo, the el cheapo coils did not fit my bike so fortunately I could send those back. Enter 2 OEM coils @ 150 quid a pop + installation. Did it change anything ? ..... Nope. Commuting home and sitting in traffic, filtering at slow speed and stopping for a red light from time to time and after a while it starts hunting, then spluttering so I have to keep the revs up so it doesn't die. What I did discover with an infra red thermometer is that - if cylinders are numbered from left to right - when it was running but misfiring : 1 was at 220 degrees, 2 was at 150 degrees, 3&4 were at 290/300 at idle. So cylinder 2 is not behaving. WHY ?? Next move was to put new plugs in 1 & 2 because they might have been affected by the old misfiring/overheating coils. The coils fire 1 & 3 and 2 & 4 so I have been told. The coils can be ruled out because number 4 is okay so the thinking is mechanical. Valve clearances, carburation or whatever else can go on down there. I did tell the mechanic chappy that experimenting at my expense is no longer an option, but he agreed that if he could have to bike for a bit he would try to get to the bottom of this issue foc. He is baffled by the whole thing as well. I'm still riding the bike to work but I now have misfiring anxiety on the way home lol If the traffic lights align and traffic is light and I can make it home in one hit without stopping I'm fine. **if we get to the bottom of this it may not have been my coils at all ....... now that will be an interesting conversation with the guy**

Merry Xmas NEO