Jump to content

chris66

Free

  • Joined

  • Last visited

View Profile Find content

Posts posted by chris66

    changing one tooth down will in crease acceleration but maybe loose a little top speed depending if your bike could reach the red line in top gear before.

    the sprocket should have a fail safe on it, most older bikes used to have a large flimsy washer under the nut that you bent up against one of the flats of the nut so it could not undo.

    not sure on your bike they may have come up with something more technical now but it looks like it dont work to well. chris

    Bikes not much worse than it was anyway...

    He didn't use his indicators, but claims that he used them at the last minute. Although not directly claiming liability he was very apologetic. I might walk down later to see what he wants to do.

    Chris

    work out the cost of repair and take it to him, you never know there are still nice people about.

    i think you do have a claim, he should have been indicating right and obviously wasn't as you would have not assumed he was pulling over.

    so unless you ignored his signal then its his fault.

    if he was signaling right then im afraid you will have to chalk this up to experience.

    you could have gone under the car and not be here at all,

    as for not waring gloves, i no you dont want to here it but your dads right,never ride with no gloves as your hands are your only thing to brake your fall.

    hope it all works out for you. chris

    i take it this bike will have points.

    have you checked the adjustment and condition.my brother used to have a fizzy and the points needed adjusting regularly to keep it running well . chris

    rectifier regulator or wiring going to it, put a voltage tester on the battery with it reving about 4000 revs, it should read 13 to 14 volts. if its still 12 volts then check the wireing to the reg/rec. chris

    big help that mate, will get it sorted during the week, judging by the position of the carbs on this bike im assuming i will need hands like a gynecologist to get to that screw?

    you probably will have to take the tank off and set up a temporary tank.

    i use a little tank of a child's pitbike i got off ebay, tape it to the frame.

    this should allow you access to the adjuster screws with a long flat head screwdriver.

    you could really use a manual for the location of the blanking bolts,if not they will be between the carb and the engine somewhere. chris

    if you have a manual it will describe it properly.

    you need 6mm adapters that screw in holes in the inlet manifolds or inlet rubbers on each carb you have to take out blanking bolts to screw in the adapters then connect the rubber pipes to the tuner,

    make sure the bike is normal working temp.

    there is a screw between one and two adjust this until one and two are sucking equally, rev it and let it settle and recheck. then do three and four, again there is a screw between three and four.

    finally there is a screw in the middle between two and three, this adjusts the two sets together ie 1&2 with 3&4 until all carbs are sucking the same. some bikes are easier than others. hope this helps, chris

    i have found the first sign that the carbs are out of balance is the idle is erratic and wont stay steady, but if you have a carbtune and twenty minutes spare it can't hurt to do them.

    if you havn't got a set they sell for about £50 on the morgan carb tune website, best tool i have ever bought. chris

    start with the easiest probable cause, the spark plug.

    spark plugs can be funny things once they have been fouled by fuel some never recover.

    on a four cylinder bike the other three start and the bad one soon follows so you don't notice much, but because you only have one cylinder an under preforming plug can cause starting problem.

    maybe the plug is due a change anyway ,how long you had it in?.

    chris

    Thank you guys, this morning battery is in very good condition, but once I press the start button if it shouldnt start at once, then again I will have the same problem..wish to go to electrician now...

    Chris...I charged battery yesterday and checked voltage which was around 12.5..then I installed it and rode..however at night when I was returning the high beam was on and it began to become dim, the hone started to whisper...this proves that the battery was giving off its power only, it wasnt charging...

    Thank you all for the helping words, I will update the thread once I got it solved..as for Christofesor, I dont think it will heal itself...plus I dont wanna get into trouble when I cruise in the country...no garages, no petrol,no street lamps etc...hehe

    :unsure:

    check the battery voltage with the bike reving at about 4000 revs if it does not go up then the rectifier is not working, chris

    try turning the tickover screw up first just in case its as simple as that.

    the pilot jets are reasonably easy to clean but it helps if you have access to a air compressor to blow them out and the tools and knowhow to remove the carbs.

    chris

    get a voltage tester, charge the battery with a charger test the voltage of battery. a fully charged battery should be 12.5 volts approx, start the bike get someone to hold the revs up to about 4000 revs , then test the battery again. the battery should be around 13 to 14 volts whilst revving.

    if there is no change the rectifier regulator is not working check the plug going into it for burning. this would cause all your problems and getting it very wet could have shorted it out.

    yes it is the bit you described, as for price i would expect it to be around £50.

    chris

    if you have your wits about you at all times bikes are safe enough, in my experience though cars seem to take more notice of bigger bikes and tend to have no respect for learners.

    this was always the case when i used to swap my yzf 750 for my wifes 100 cc scooter, but perhaps its just me. chris