drewpy

thanks . . for the info and the prices at SSS don't seem half bad . . I guess I will start with the frame and add a bit at a time ..

if you buy Classic Motorcycle Mechanics they advertise in there and you can get 5% off with the ad, at the very least you end up getting the mag free

s'pose it is a how long is a piece of string, but how much does it cost to prepare and powder coat a frame and swing arm ?

saw it done on the telly with wheel for a vintage car . . looks quite hard work so guess it is expensive. Also not knowing anything about the process are the different types of coating and is there anything to watch out for ?

and is it specialist for bikes or will I get a similar result from anyone I pull out of the yellow pages ?

I used triple s in bingley

http://www.triple-s.co.uk/

they have an online price list, do a superb job, just degrease your frame and swing arm and they plug all your holes and blast and paint it. Classic Motorcycle Mechanics use them a fair bit.

drew

I used to have an xs250, the parking light came on when key was turned to the steering lock/park position, and the light switch needed to be on in the sidelight position.

Not sure on the MOT side of things, but i cant remember anyone testing this.

cheers, that sounds right to me, I'll splice it into position 3 of the ignitin switch.

Hi There folks!!

Nearing the end of my restoration of the xs400. everything is wired up except the pilot/parking bulb (UK model). I bought a NOS ignition switch and it only has 3 positions as opposed to 4 on the original. This means that the connection to the bulb is missing.

Now to the question;

When does this bulb light? ie when the main lamp is on or when the key is left in the parking position (or both?)

How does this fit in with the MOT regs?

Cheers

Drew

Every one knows that Yamaha use its parts bin for different models!

Just came across this on ebay,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=34238

i have'nt used it, but the www.yamaha-xt500.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=1230 have and says its great!

you type in your model and you get all the common parts from other different models, so an sr500 part may fit but with a different part number.

Hi

I'm about to fit an alarm to my bike. It says I need to locate the 'positive side of the starter relay'.

There are 4 wires to/from the relay. Would it mean the side which 'becmes' live when ignition is turned on or

the side which is always live? I presume there is one live going in and one out when the relay is activated?

Can anyone help with this please....

Many thanks.

a relay work by energising a "plunger" across an even thicker wire in order to connect up the starter motor. I would think you only interupt the thinner wires which energise the relay as the current draw for the starter motor will fry the wires as it will be a big current draw. the ignition is usually a separate circuit, unless you mean key switch/ignition

to recap

thats two thinner wires in 1 positive 1 negative and a common colour in and out for the starter motor

I hope i make sense

Need a full set of bearings for my 1993 YZF750R, front/rear wheel, steering and swingarm.

Anyone recommend anyone, preferably online? Thanks chaps.

Found this guy on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=ADME:B:SS:UK:1

Any one know of cheap genuine spares of

oe spares as long as there good!!

need some over winter break and dont

want pay more then needed..

I use www.motoward.co.uk but they are mainly for classic stuff. give 'em a ring tho', you never know

I personally would attempt to fix it first, if not then the glue option. Remember to put a bolt in the hole before you get it powder coated as its a nightmare to clean the threads up otherwise. And a bolt is cheaper than a tap set

Thanks, good idea regarding the threads

but my original question is... how do i repair the prongs/and or what glue should i use?

any ideas?

Does that mean the prongs should be sticking out horizonal, or near closed?

Here's a picture of the base with missing prongs. can I repair them or do i stick the seat with glue after powder coating?

Hi,

I have just got down to stripping my seat for powder coating, and apart from a bit of rust a few of the prongs that grip through the seat cover are missing. I have already trawled the net for answers, so you lot are my best and last hope

As i see it I have 3 options

1) replacing the prongs (and with what?)

2) ignoring that part of the seat, and let it flop (OOO Missus!!)

3) glue that part of the seat, bearing in mind it will be powder coated!! ( and what glue?)

I am using a new original Yam seat cover, so I am a little anxious to get it right first time

Of the original prongs (due to possible metal fatigue) is it best first to heat them before bending and powder coating?

Cheers

Drewpy

were you drunk when ya took the piccy? its all blured

I'm restoring an excess 400 at the mo' so ask questions if you get stuck!!

Mint "fizzy's" go for silly money. parts from fizzy galore

www.fs1egalore.co.uk

more info here

http://www.fs1e.co.uk/

my '77 xs400 runs on unleaded, and I read that all jap bikes ran on unleaded since early 70's.

BTW the fuel today is not as good, so always use fresh juice and drain out carbs etc before starting.

for reference you can get diaphram kits from NRP in Manchester UK for your bike

http://www.cameron-site.co.uk/nrp/yamaha_c..._diaphragms.htm

hi, if all electrics have gone did you check the main earth lead? I would also get yourself a multmeter (£2.50 from Maplins at the mo') and work from the battery, checking every lead for power. there is no easy answer to this, just methodical probing. Have fun