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RXS100 exhaust restoration


James Trev
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Hi, hope you can see the images ok.  I recently bought an RXS100 1993 which needs a bit of work. I sourced a standard exhaust off Ebay to replace loud aftermarket Kenzo exhaust it came with (RXS exhausts seem like hens teeth so I just went for it when this one came up on Ebay). The silencer had some extensive surface rust on the underside which I have started to clean up with wet and dry - it is looking much better now (see before and after images) but it is still quite pitted.  The silencer is still really solid.  I was thinking of maybe getting it professionally re-chromed as long as it's not too expensive (I've seen some websites where you have to send the exhaust off to them).  Or, I'm thinking I could attempt a DIY restore/re-spray.  I concerned the DIY option will not look the best and the chrome sections around the rusted area have been dulled because of the wet and dry.

Has anyone got any advice on how I can get the silencer looking good myself and the best products to use (rust treatment, undercoat, spray paint etc)?  Failing that, is anyone can recommend a decent restorer/re-chromer I can send it to then I can look into that.

Also, I can't get the castle nut off of the end of the sliencer, have soaked it in WD40 several times and heated it up but won't budge, can anyone recommend the correct tool as I've just been faffing about with a screwdriver shaft between the turrets.  Want to avoid taking it to the workshop if I can help it.

Sorry for the long post, if anyone can help would be much appreciated.

Cheers, James

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There's no substitute for a good thick chrome coat...
It's not going to be cheap, but it will be a lot cheaper than getting a good one!

 

As for the nut, you may have to consider it a sacrificial part and split it.

You got a picture of it?

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Thanks for the reply mate -I'm beginning to think you're right - I'll probably keep the bike forever now so would be nice to have the exhaust looking as good as it can be.  I'll keep going a bit more with the wet and dry to get it as smooth as possible.  Check out the photo of the castle nut, some of the turrets are bit bent too so might take the hacksaw to it.  Looks like you can still get replacements for these easily, unlike the silencers..!

636E6E82-D891-4942-B1AA-5D37B194A2FB copy.jpg

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1 hour ago, James Trev said:

Thanks for the reply mate -I'm beginning to think you're right - I'll probably keep the bike forever now so would be nice to have the exhaust looking as good as it can be.  I'll keep going a bit more with the wet and dry to get it as smooth as possible.  Check out the photo of the castle nut, some of the turrets are bit bent too so might take the hacksaw to it.  Looks like you can still get replacements for these easily, unlike the silencers..!

636E6E82-D891-4942-B1AA-5D37B194A2FB copy.jpg

Oh...
That's not what I was expecting at all!!!

Are you 100% certain it's MEANT to come off?
You may have to make a tool to fit it perfectly. Then stick it in a vice, heat up the nut so it glows then douse the exhaust (not the nut) with cold water and give it some taps while leaning on your tool...

I was thinking about a nut splitter, but that's not suitable for those at all, and being chromed isn't going to help at all.

Looking at this diagram:
Yamaha RXS100 1983 EXHAUST supplied next day (UK only) by Fowlers Parts
It appears there's a gasket under that too!

Can you get the muffler out of the can?
You'll need to do this if you're going to get it chromed.
You'll also need to know what state it's in. And since it doesn't look like you can get one of those anymore, you may have to get one manufactured if it's not good...

 

Yambits have one (probably have the gasket too)...
Yambits : for Yamaha bikes

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Hi mate, I'm pretty sure it's meant to come off so will persevere I reckon.  That's a good idea on the vice, I'll just have to be careful to not damage the silencer..  I'll get hold of the gasket and replacement castle nut from Yambits, thanks for looking at that.

I've already managed to get the muffler out and de-coked it (it was a right mess but fine now I burned all the crap off..

Will post back some progress shortly I hope!

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If you cant get the nut to unscrew, in the past ive successfully cut similar things off. Used a thin cutting disc (1mm) in a grinder and carefully cut down the length of the nut until I could just see the tops of the thread, no more. Sometimes, the tension in the metal will spring the threads apart, sometimes Ive had to cut down the opposite side too. Done carefully, youll not cause any damage

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Hi neversaydie, only just seen your message. Was going to have a go with the hacksaw this weekend gone but didn't get around to it.  Having read your message I'm going to source a thin cutting disc, already have the grinder..  Noted on being careful to see the top of the threads so not cause unnecessary damage and more work!

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  • 2 months later...

Snakebite68 and neversaydie, thanks again for your help and suggestions.  I have an update if you're interested!  Ref the stubborn castle nut, I finally managed to get it free using a vice and adjustable spanner (covered the nut with a rag first to minimise damage to the nut).  I decided not to get the header and silencer re-chromed for now and used Simoniz VHT silver to re-spray the corroded sections.  It is matt finish but you can't really see it because it's on the inside.  When I removed the Kenzo exhaust the bike came with, there was no gasket so I fitted a new one and mounted the renovated exhaust.  The difference to the bike's power is really noticeable, it pulls really well up to an indicated 65mph and when I get down towards the tank it reaches just over 70.  Had some great fun ragging it around this weekend and the more I've thrashed it the freer the engine has become - I think it was crying out for a good blast.  It's just a great fun bike to ride and so light compared with my other big bikes.  Feels like being 17 and 1989 all over again -only this time I don't have learner plates flying around.  I've attached a pic of the bike with the exhaust fitted.

Cheers, James

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Good going! Looks great...

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Good work fella, thanks for the update 

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