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YBR 125 Custom Puncture and chain replacement...


AndPhil
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Hi all,

I'm a total newbie - passed the CBT a week ago, bought a 2011 YBR 125 Custom, been out on it twice and got a puncture!

in DIY style I've removed the back wheel and will be taking it somewhere for a new tyre shortly.  Are there any recommendations for the best tyres for these bikes?  I don't know if there's much of a range available.  At the moment it has tubeless 'CSC's which might be the original ones.

Also - chain wear was an advisory on the last MOT (in April), so I'm planning to replace the chain and sprockets at the same time (trusting that the Haynes Manual will get me through).  Any recommendations for brands/suppliers of chains & sprockets gratefully received.  Anyone know if I need a particular chain-splitting tool?  I doubt the one for my pushbike will fit...

I didn't expect to be taking the bike apart quite so soon after getting it, and I'm just looking forward to getting it back together so I can head out into the sunshine (wherever that's gone...)

Thanks all

A

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Hi, Rather than change the tyre, assuming it's still legal, why not just get it repaired? if it's in the centre to outside edge of the tread you can get it plugged for much less than a new tyre. As to a chain splitter read your Haynes manual and it tells you how to remove the side cover of the engine to get at the front sprocket, an easy job to do as long as you take your time and follow the instructions, remember it's NOT a car you can't just do the bolts up till they squeak you need to do them up to the correct torque..! Usually the rear and front sprocket are changed at the same time as if one is buggered then the other one is probably shot as well so buy a set. Wemoto has a good rep for parts and they are usually pretty good on price to. Good luck.

One other thing it's usual to say "Hi" in the new members section just so folks know your serious about the site and not just looking for free info. Just sayin..!

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You might wish you had read the sprocket change before removing the wheel if the sprocket is held by a bf nut.

You could just have a tube fitted if cost is a concern on something like a ybr.

The chain on a ybr should have a split link unless its the oem original. Or been serviced by a main stea..... sorry, dealer. So the cain should be an easy split without anything more than a pair of pliers.

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Thanks Slice and Cynic for your replies.

I've heard tyres can be repaired, but I don't know the history of the current one (manufactured by Cheng Shin/C no less) - I'm almost wondering if it's original  but maybe that's rather unlikely after 9500 miles...), and I don't know who I'd trust to repair it, so it's going to be a £65 new one tomorrow (a Michelin City Pro, which is the only one the tyre place could find).  Apparently the Custom has to be tubeless ...

I'm looking at chain sets, even more confusing than tyres ... Haynes says it was an O-ring DID 428V originally, and as I can see that written on the links it might also be original. It's in pretty bad shape - frozen links and a missing tooth on the rear sprocket.   I've read that you mustn't swap an o-ring type for a standard link? - presumably something to do with the spec - but saying that the only replacements I can currently find are standard link types.  I've just about worked out that it needs 118 links, 14 teeth on the front and either 43 or 45 on the back - surprising how many sellers online tell you it's suitable for your bike without actually revealing the spec...

If I'd been riding longer I'd probably be a bit less precious about getting everything right, but having only ridden twice since the CBT and now having the bike wheel-less on the drive, I'm keen to do everything the right way in order to have some confidence when I get back on it (though admittedly I'm not keen to pay someone to do it all for me)...

(Slice - you're probably right, I came here looking for info! - but I've since introduced myself in the newbie area, and hopefully in due course I'll have something useful to contribute to someone; it's a steep learning curve right now...)

 

Thanks 

A

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Hi "And" no probs mate. Ok it might be an idea to say where you live, some of the folks on here are more than willing to help out a fellow biker, they can usually be bribed with tea and biscuits.

I'm in Gloucestershire so no real use to you but someone might be nearer and willing to help out. I know we have a couple of lads down in Brighton area so they could be persuaded to help I'm sure. (read your intro post) to be honest there are 2 ways to go, 1 buy the cheapest set of cogs and chain you can find and just bung them on till you know more, that way even if you fuck up it won't cost to much, 2 Buy the very best you can afford and fit them exactly as it says in the manual or even go to your local bike shop and get them to do it, the advantage of that is that you know it will have been done right and can take it back if it all goes tit's up. Just some suggestions for now as the longer your into bikes the more you will learn and be able to do yourself, good luck mate whatever you decide.

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Phil +1 for the above. As for contributing. You already are.

Search engines will catch you post for chain and sprockets and folk will read it.

They may or may not be yoc members but it helps other motorcyclists who are wary of using forums. That has to be a good thing.

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Brief update on my biking career so far.  Did the CBT, bought a bike, went out twice and got a puncture.  On taking the wheel off I decided to change the chain and sprockets...

Couldn't find any kind of link on the old chain, so eventually I gave up and sawed it off.

I ordered a DID 428D chain and JD Sprockets as per the compatibility spec on www.wemoto.com

I put the front sprocket on today - easy enough.  With the new rear sprocket in my shed I re-used the old nuts and bolts, and with my brand new torque wrench set to 40nm (as per the Haynes Manual) I proceeded to shred all the threads while tightening them.  Then I spent an hour destroying numerous drill bits drilling the bolts out again. I've phoned 'Wemoto' and they've ordered replacement nuts and bolts.

Admittedly it was my first time with torque wrench. Seemed straightforward enough.  Now I'm obviously dreading it'll happen again when i get my new bolts.  Meanwhile, my wife is losing patience with my new 'hobby' (I'm supposed to be decorating the bathroom, not swearing at lumps of metal on the driveway), the summer is ticking away and I'm spending a fortune on the train. 

Hopefully in a few more days I'll have this 'simple' job sorted, and the moment I ride the bike again I'll forget all about it...

 

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” Robert M Pirsig

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Odd, 40nm is not much.

You only get a click to know its tight, past that you can really put some abuse through it (wont help the calibration) as it will act like a decent strong bar and will easily knacker some 6mm nuts.

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Ah! that would do it, just a dab of oil is all you need and as Cynic said if you go past the "CLICK" then it's just a big long bar. Really think you should consider taking it in to your local shop just to be certain that it's right, you can as well watch the guy doing it and gain some insight into what's needed. I did say right at the beginning that it's not a car, you can't tighten bike bolts till they squeak as you have already found out. Sorry to hear your tale of woe mate, tell the wife it's all a bloke thing we are as much a mystery to them as they are to us..! :D

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It's back together!  

I think I was clumsy with  the torque wrench, didn't realise the importance of holding it correctly, being smooth and consistent. We live and learn, and YouTube is a big help.

Reassembly was straightforward with Haynes and the photos I took beforehand, and unusually for me I had no parts left over. Unfortunately with my wife out for the evening I couldn't leave the kids to test it properly, but I pootled to the end of the road and back. I'll be out on it first thing tomorrow... 

I've been warned that a new tyre is likely to feel slippery to start with, so I'll be going careful. 

I'll also be keeping a close eye on everything I've touched for a while - chain tension, rear brake and various bolts. Slightest concern and it's going to a professional next time, but at least I know a lot more about it than I did before. 

I appreciate the encouragement and wisdom of Slice and Cynic, and I think I'd encourage fools like me to seek expert help unless you really have the time to research and learn to do things properly... 

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Well done.

You really will have done as good a job as a 'professional'. Your not thinking about a dozen other things, your doing something you want to do. The professional is being paid. They will never dot the i's and cross the tee's like you will.

Have some faith in yourself and enjoy the money you saved, your looking at 60-70quid an hour these days with a minimum fee.

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That's great mate, well done you..! Now find the time to potter about for a few miles and get used to being free of traffic jams and mobile phones. As to new tyres being a bit squirrelly, that should only be for about 20 miles till you scrub the face off, corner gently at first then "let her rip tater chip"

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