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YBR125 worked from cold perfectly for ~15 minutes; now it won't turn over!


spikelovesmetal
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This is for a YBR125ED 2010 (fuel injected) with about ~3050 miles on the clock. Sorry for the long post, I thought it would just help if I listed all the details in here!

My beloved Wibber (both because it's a YBR and because it goes wibberwibberwibber when running) had a service a couple of months ago following a fork rebuild. Among other things, the workshop set the idle back as they said it was running too fast. It's a 15-30 minute drive back depending on city traffic, and I was finding that by the time I was near home the engine was near to cutting out when I stopped at traffic lights. I ended up doing the girl racer thing of having to rev it at a standstill to stop it cutting out, much to the amusement of cars around me, but made it home with no other issues. I looked up the problem in the Haynes manual and it pointed out that while the idle is high from cold (~2000) it should drop after ten or fifteen minutes to around 1500rpm. Wibber at the moment is hovering around 1000rpm after ten minutes, and sometimes under.

I've been riding up and down a car park now and again to practice slow-speed handling and decided it would be a good time to reset the idle. I hadn't been on it in about a month, but the bike started first time, first press of the button. All the lights work, neutral light came on along with the engine light which extinguished as normal after a second or so. Brake light, indicators and headlight all worked, and it happily pulled away and did laps of slow downhill with various stops to simulate slow traffic, turn at the end, run up to the other end in second, turn again and repeat. I did this for about ten minutes straight with no issues, other than the revs starting to drop. On the last lap I stalled it turning around at the end, and then it cut out as I was slowing on the return lap from 2nd gear. I put it in neutral, turned it off and parked it to one side because a couple of people came down to move their cars.

My other half decided to have a practice too (he uses Wibber as well as a city get-around bike). He sat on it after about 5 minutes of waiting for cars, checked the sidestand was up, key in, turned it on, waited for the engine light to extinguish and it would not turn over. I will now attempt to recreate the sound using letters (crap):

Normal startup sound: wheeeechugchugchugWIBBERwibberwibberwibber (cue normal running). The 'wheeee' sound is the electrical whine, chug is turnover, and then wibber, is, er...Wibber.

This startup sound: wheeeNRRRRRNRRRNRRRclunk. Electrical whine, 'nope nope nope', clunk when I take my hand off the button (around 3 seconds max, because at one point it sounded like it would go again). It doesn't sound like it's getting to turnover but it still makes the starter sound.

It almost made the same sound as the 'you've got the sidestand down, you pillock' noise it makes, so we put the stand back down and up again. It went all the way up with no problems and clicked against the stopper, so it's not blocked by anything. Tried it again: wheeeeeNRNRNRNRNRRRRclunk.

We turned it off, key out, back in again, same issue. Had a thought that it wasn't in neutral despite the light, so I got back on, put it in first, rolled it forward on the clutch, back into neutral and the neutral light comes back on. Tried again, same issue. EDIT: Forgot to mention, when you turn it on the engine light still extinguishes after a second or two as normal. With the starter button pressed it comes on and flickers when the bike is going NRRRR until the button is released. It's not a consistent flash (long and short for an error code), just a fast flickering on and off. It stays off once the button is released.

Left it a bit. Engine case was warm but not hot. Lots of head scratching. We tried changing the gear to second and then back to neutral with no effect. It had half a tank of petrol left. No drips or leaks. Oil level is at max and is starting to turn from that golden new oil colour to a bit darker (not black, but certainly darker than the new oil). I rolled it down the hill in neutral and tried it again but the same thing happened. I thought about it maybe not having enough idle to start properly so adjusted it up slightly (I know you're not supposed to do it with the engine not running but it was worth a shot at that point) but this didn't work either, so I put it back to where it was. OH got on again just to see if we could have knocked anything out of place, but the only thing he came close to was the rear panelling. I was worried about flooding it then so we parked it up and left it. We tried all of the lights again, bar the main beam which doesn't come on unless the engine is running, and they all worked fine.

Any ideas at all? I've had a look through the forums and Haynes manual and can't find any problem where it stops working suddenly after being fine - everything seems to be 'won't work from start'. I can't see what's made it go from running fine bar an idle problem to deciding it doesn't even want to turn over when somebody else sits on it. I'm sure the spark plug was checked as part of the service too, and if it's a flat battery would the lights still be working, or would it even have started at all?

Please help. I want to get riding again!

 

Edited by spikelovesmetal
Forgot about the engine light flickering.
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  • Moderator

Tried bumping?

Also, 15 minutes chugging round a car park, prob lights on, loads of braking, no revs? Dont suppose you checked the battery?

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Sorry for the delay! I had charged the battery a week or so before so didn't think to check it again once it was back on the bike. Turns out in that time it had already gone from around 90-100% charge to 40-60% and also went through the Recover cycle on the Optimate. Charged it again off the bike following your advice, left it a couple of days and got the same problem. New battery time!

Can anyone recommend a good manufacturer? The battery is a YTX7L-BS in the book. Yuasa looked good but I'm confused looking at it why a maintenance-free battery would come with separate acid.

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  • Moderator

Yuasa has always worked for me.

None of my bikes are electric start or have complex electrical systems so its not really an issue untill a battery is completely fkt.

Dunno about the maintainance free bit. 

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Thanks for that! I've looked up both the Yuasa which sells itself as an OEM battery and the Motobatt version (MBTX7U). The equivalent Motobatt has higher CCA which would be an advantage in the nippier weather, but lists 8Ah rather than the 6Ah recommended in the manual. Will the Motobatt still be ok to use? From memory that figure just tells you how quickly it will charge/discharge, but I just want to check before I end up with another bloody doorstop.

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My mate has a  bike shop,  he only fits Mottobat now, as too many returns [ 3 months]  with acid filled batterys, & Yuasa..:thumb:

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