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Dragstar breaking question.


sunsprie
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I'm wondering about the front breaks on the dragstar. When I pull on the break it's feels strange, it's like it stops, goes abit, stops, it's sorta hard to explain. When I bought the bike there was 6000 miles on her. I'm wondering should I get new break pads? How are dragstar breaks generally?

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Have you got stainless steel brake lines? It might be that if you have the original rubber lines that are fitted as standard then your getting a "bounce" inside the old brake lines due to wear.

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+1 on what slice said. We have to remember that this is a cruiser and thus the brakes aren't going to be R1 grade but i think maybe time to do a brake re-fresh.

Fit new pads and disk, stainless HEL (or other make) brake line and fresh DOT 4 will solve any issues.

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I'm shit at working on bikes, like seriously shit. I can charge the battery and thought I was amazing once cause I tightened the chain on my old virago. So what do you suggest I do? Can yas explain in complete amateur terms lol. Rubber lines? Thanks :)

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It's easy to do if you know how but if your a complete amateur then get it done in a workshop, not saying you can't do it but the brakes are the one thing you do not want to fail, so better to pay a professional than mess about and f**k it up.

You could order the lines yourself and then just offer them to who ever you get to do it, that way you can save a bit of cash by only paying the normal price instead if the "workshop" price.

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Yeah I'll order all the things myself. Although I'm abit skint at the minute and the front break disc is dear enough from looking on eBay. Why would I need a disc break? Would new break pads not do or will I be better with the disc?

I'll be sending it to a professional no way am I messing with the brakes lol.

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If you have the manual for the bike then look to see what the minimum thickness of the brake disc should be, for instance if the "new" disc is 4mm and the minimum is 2.5mm (not saying it is!) then with a micrometer you can check how worn your disc is, if your within tolerance then you don't need to change it but it is an MOT fail if they check it. Plus some brakes work better with a new disc and pads, you don't have to wear in the new pads over the old ripples and such, but it can be an expensive option especially as most steel discs out last pads by about 4or5 to 1. So there you go, check to see what your disc is and make a decision as to whether to replace the lot or just those bit's you need, remember if you only change the pads you will need to run about 50 miles to bed them in to the old disc. Hope that helps a bit.

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It could be a warped disc due to over heating from break binding or if bike has been dropped ? a bike shop will be able to check the run out of the disc for you if you don't know how to check it yourself,see youtube

also have you checked that the caliper bolts are tight! that is the bolts that connect the brake to the fork leg!

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Always do the cheapest stuff first.

1/. Check brake pads for wear/damage.

2/. Check brake disc for the same.

3/. Check brake reservoir for damage and lube up brake lever.

4/. Strip brake caliper, clean and rebuild, replace brake fluid with fresh stuff and bleed thoroughly, before checking for correct operation.

5/. Replace rubber brake line hose with a braided one.

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Ok I'm taking the bike on Friday to the mechanic, I can't really afford to brake disc and to get it fitted which is annoying. At least not this week.

What do braided break lines do? I've seen some for £20 on eBay. Wondering if I should go ahead and buy them.

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Well the first thing they do is make you stop better, obvious really, but if you think about it the stainless steel braiding around the rubber pipe will stop the rubber from expanding, which is probably what's happening to you at the moment and this will increase the pressure at the brake itself, whereas if you have rubber lines only they expand and give you a spongy feel to the brakes ie you have to pull like a bastard to get them to stop you. Just going to say that if you get it done don't be cheap about it, some ebay stuff is ok but you do not want a hose to give out at 60+ and leave you with only your soles to stop you.

Just to add, get a few quotes for prices before you decide on what to buy. I always try to buy local to me so you have someone to walk up to and punch if it all goes tit's up. :biglaugha:

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Braided lines sound pretty essential so would you recommend getting them even if I can't afforded the whole break disc yet? Is it normal for bikes to need a new disc after 6000 miles? I'll take it up on Friday and get it all looked at anyhow.

Also I hope you haven't had to punch anyone lol. Not to hard anyway.

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I'd recommend getting one fitted, certainly.

I'd also suggest getting the existing parts checked first, since a braided line won't matter a jot if your caliper is ailing, for example.

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As above, get it looked at first then decide what you need.

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As an exercise for future reference, get your parts list sorted for overhauling the BRAKE system. You can search the prices on the net, then you'll know how much it would cost to do it yourself, and how much the garage are charging you for parts and labour.

Be specific about what you want them to do, don't leave any grey areas. If they say they'll fix it for you, tell them you want to know exactly what they propose to do.

It may pay to bite the bullet now and have the complete system overhaul ie master cyl/pistons/seals/pads than have it part done and have to do the rest later in the year. Least you've a base point for reference for the future

good luck with it

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Also - Fill out your profile.

Knowing things like which town you live in can often lead to other members finding useful local stuff for you... like mechanics who work for beer!!

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If it helps, I paid about £70 fitted for front braided lines on my old Fazer at a local garage. They weren't coated in plastic like some makes mind... (That was Stianio's Harrogate)

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