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yamaha ag 175


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so picked up my parts bike for the following few bits I need to finish off my project

- clutch perch

- engine

- exhaust silencer

- front forks

I stripped down this engine which has a good mainshaft, cleaned the cases, and all the internals and popped out all the old bearings and seals.

heated the case halves with a heat gun and then dropped the new bearings in. turns out my bearing guy gave me the wrong 15x22x12 bearing, its supossedly a HK1512 (those dimensions) but the OD is 20.5mm what the heck... so will have to go there tomorrow to get it sorted.

engine rebuild should be done in a few days, not rebuilding the crank or replacing the piston rings as those bits are all good!

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well i've been going crazy. I have 2 complete motors with bad mainshafts, and I plan to pick up a complete parts bike in a week or so which will give me 4 top ends, and hopefully one useable bottom e

so today made the frame loop for the seat and brazed it on, now I just have to paint and mount the rear guard!

Nice! That'll make the commute tons more fun!

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so finished rebuilding the motor with all new bearings + seals, used threebond on centre flange and then loctite 518 on the gearbox side cover. hopefully the thing doesn't leak - am leaving it empty overnight to allow the stuff to set

will be doing a test ride tomorrow, my clutch parts haven't arrived yet so will have to tear the side cover at some stage to replace the plates but in the meantime I want to test the rest of the bike properly.

also put new seals into my replacement fork bottoms and started painting them, will have to finish that up tomorrow

to do

- install front and rear brake shoes

- install engine

- install replacement fork tubes

- mount taillight

finish mounting the seat

- paint rear guard

then finally it will be ready for roadworthy!

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got the bike running today, no leaks from the rebuild, but had trouble starting it so I pulled the carb and noticed an orange residue in the float bowl, which is rust... there are 2 filters on the unit but when I drained a bit of fuel into a container there was some small rust flakes...

so I guess I need to POR the tank, thats just another $85 bucks... I suppose I could just use vinegar and aquarium stones to remove the loose rust and then just run it with a splash of 2 stroke oil in the fuel?

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you wont need to por the tank unless it's leaking

The stones and vinegar is a good idea followed by a good dry out and again followed by a good rinse out with rust converter such as 'Jenolite' if you can get that in Oz.

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you can buy the metal etch stuff from paint stores by itself for about 20 or maybe 30...

if I cant get a rust converter cheaper than that I may just go crazy and POR the thing... once its done its done... I dont want to seize the bike cos of crap in the fuel blocking the mainjet...

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With todays ethonal fuels I am a big fan of sealing a metal tank!,, did mine just cause I don't want it rusting from the inside out.

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So today got a fair bit done.

New fork seals in

Forks painted

fork inner tubes swapped from bad forks into replacements

Mounted forks

New front brake shoes. - old ones were grease contaminated

Aligned brake shoes

Removed the tank to clean today. The process was ----- filled with aquarium rocks. shook for 20. Emptied. Refilled with degreaser and rocks. 20 mins. Emptied. Rinsed. Filled with vinegar. Left for 1 hour with shakes in between. Rinsed with more vinegar. Dried with heat gun. Flushed with fuel and then reinstalled on bike. I'm just going to add a splash of oil into the fuel every time I fill up to keep rust at bay. Cleaned fuel petcck

The engine isn't leaking a drop which I'm stoked about. Not goin to use a gasket just going to go with 518 again. Fairly convinced the loud tickin is the auto lube pump so I might swap it with a spare when I replace the clutch parts hopefully this weekend.

Now it's just the seat stuff (some frame work) I need to sort out and to remount the indicators and the tail light and it's ready to rock.

I have been experimenting trying to quieten down the exhaust. I'm not convinced its quiet enough to pass.

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hey thanks foamy!

so after a bunch of screwing around with this ebc clutch stuff as I said in the other thread I swapped in the original clutch with original springs after doing a bit more sanding to remove the glaze - the clutch BARELY slips anymore and I reckon it will get better with a bit of a thrash/ride...so oem all the fkn way...

the problem is that before I realised this I forked out $40 for a CK2236 clutch friction plate kit that was the wrong size 3mm instead of 4mm plates despite all the ebc catalogues saying it was right - it was NOT right, and was sold the wrong clutch springs for $40 as well - CSK042 (1976-1977 DT 175) instead of CSK039 (1974-75 DT 175) despite the listing on ebay saying the CSK042s were for the 74-75 DT 175.... THEY ARE NOT!

the difference/problem is that the clutch baskets + spring retainers are different for the early vs later DT 175s so the spring preloading is different - ie the CSK042s dont put enough preload on the early basket and so the clutch slips - they are weaker than the stock DT springs ... I am not able to check but I suspect the 3mm plates are for the later DT 175 clutch basket too....

The CSK039s are for early DT175 and RD350 and should be 15% stiffer but I dont have much faith in EBC anymore.

anyway so a big headache and $80 later I've decided to try and palm off these two EBC components for whatever I can get for them on ebay (they are pretty much brand new) I am waiting to hear back from the sellers but dont expect much... I have also emailed EBC to ask them what their thoughts are on all this crap.

in other news as you can see the bike is pretty much ready, I am just making some mounts for the rear guard which will look guady but is purely to get the bike to pass rw... I think I will paint the rear guard black as I dont want it as a stand out item.

hopefully have the bike in getting roadworthied next week!

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some photos of the bike, now ready for roadworthy!

IMG_1575_zpsb1d00c33.jpg

IMG_1576_zps1cfd122e.jpg

IMG_1577_zpsbe578713.jpg

IMG_1579_zpsf9774b28.jpg

plenty of small mods I want to do (add pillion pegs, find/mount tacho, heaps of performance mods etc etc) but for now it'll be fun to commute to work on (5-7km through the city)

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Nice! That'll make the commute tons more fun! :thumb:

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For the spring problem add another washer top the stock spring and walla you got more tension.

Have a peek at what drewpy did to his tracker to make a inner mud guard .

Bike looks good, 5-7 kms wont even get the bike warmed up,, better find a longer way to work or your going to foul plug's.

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Yeah that's what I plan to do. May add 2. The clutch steels and plates all look within spec so The remainder slip I think is just the out of spec oem springs.

after shimming if that doesn't work ill buy new oem plates

5-7km on a 2 stroke? I think it'll be hot enough but you could be right

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so I'm gonna gradually sort out the finishing cosmetics on this bike once its roadworthied

- new rear shocks

- paint exhaust, cylinder + head

- polish up the cases and sand out scratches a bit more

one thing I'm keen to do because I cant find a matching set of brown handlebar grips is get amongst the vintage bike world, I'm going to get some textured light brown cork handlebar tape and wrap my bars and then coat them in amber shellac to get the desired colour... then the final cool trick to remove the high gloss of the shellac is to gently wet rub them with steel wool to dull the finish whilst retaining most of the colour, this makes the grips look like leather! all for $20 and it looks old school!

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I have a friend who goes to good will stores and buys second hand jackets and make's all that kinda stuff buys a jacket for 10-15 bucks and turn it into all kinda stuff. Bet you could do it cheaper that way and have real leather.

But if you want to buy brown grips then check out brittish bike resto companys thier out there

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