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yamaha ag 175


s900t8v
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thanks but I'm not sold on the tailight position, it was easy to mount it there with an unused handlebar retainer but I am thinking of making an alloy bracket to mount the tailight lower down, that way the number plate can act as a stone guard which may help me get through roadworthy without a rear guard!

pics later today once I figure it out

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IMG_1352_zps3ba860eb.jpg

will paint the bracket etc all black when I get time,,, mounted it much lower, looks way better

IMG_1353_zps47b3fc1b.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/ejgrae89/IMG_1356_zps9565c602.jpgIMG_1356_zps9565c602.jpg

just fabbed up this chain guard with some aluminium and an angle grinder, I drew some lines I am trying to think of a way to make it look less shit lol - ideas welcome

in other news I clearcoated the tank, headlight housing and oil reservoir, the headlight housing is installed and everything is wired up, all my wiring works too which is nice...

STILL waiting on my clutch springs from the UK, I ordered them 3 weeks ago. I would love to know how another item I ordered from the UK 4 days ago was in my mailbox today, and soem stuf I ordered 10 days ago from china too...

these willies on ebay are telling me they sent them but they've been lost in the mail or they never sent them.

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IMG_1372_zps7cbe3726.jpg

wet sanded the tank with p1500, clear is nice and flat now, just ordered some megs 105 and 205 and will hit the tank with the drill buff to get it popping!

still got a fair few cosmetic bits and pieces to do - I decided I'm not going to reclear after laying the vinyls... I dont mind a hard edge on the YAMAHA... I guess if I change my mind I can always reclear later.

cosmetics still to do

- order new seat (tomorrow)

- apply vinyls to tank

- cut and buff tank

- MAYBE wet sand oil pump cover headlight brackets + housing + cut and buff these - they're smaller so not so obvious if not perfect

- paint cylinder + cylinder head gloss black and sand/polish fin edges

- paint centre hub + spokes black, leave rims chrome and polish alloy hub faces

- buy some brown handlebar grips

other

- install mirrors (waiting on)

- clutch springs (waiting on) I've removed the ridges from the clutch basket and am going to use a good racing oil for the gearbox I found in dads shed

- measure squish and mill head + sharpen squish band edge

- bore out cyl to dt 175 reed block + buy boyesen reeds

- clean up the ports

things I may need to do but am trying to avoid

- new front brake cable/front brake shoes

- POR tank - its fairly rusty!

-

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IMG_1382_zps2c7f8149.jpg

SO THIS HAPPENED :shakeno: stupid walked into it when I wasn't paying attention so looks like I'll have to order a complete other set, I guess then I'll have spares and its ok cos they are only 35 for 4x delivered lol, still annoys me when this stuff happens....

edit; glued it back together will see if it holds up to all the vibration... then if not ill order another

IMG_1385_zpsa4ec6a31.jpg

DIY chain guard came out welll, gave it a quick drill polish along with the side cover to see what everything will look like...

stuff came up well!

i've found a ct 175 - im going to use the bottom end and build up an engine with all new bearings and seals, as I recently foudn out the ag has retarded gear ratios lol ... the primary gears are different and 4th and 5th gear ratios are different, eveyrthing else in the bike is the same... the ct 175 probably also has all the stuff in the engine to drive a tacho so i'm glad I held off on buyng a tach...

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mirrors and stuff came today... but no clutch springs

its at the point of ridiculous, stuff I ordered from china 2 weeks ago is arriving, whereas my month ago ordered springs are no where to be seen...

seat should get here by friday!

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Made up new clutch brake and throttle cables today an fitted the mirrors.

Ah it's almost done! Can't wait to ride it!

Ill post up some interesting gear ratio calcs god I've been indecisive about whether or not I need a ct bottom end. At this stage (again) I'm thinking the ag will be ok lol.

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so clutch springs came today HOORAY!

filled the bike with 4t synthetic wet clutch oil, threw the tank and oil tank on and filled them both and took it for a spin...

clutch still slips! lol - I am gonna thrash it and see if its just glazed plates and if thrashing it will help them rebed

I fitted a clutch basket with no grooves where the plates ride, re adjusted the clutch so there is plenty of free play and checked the plate thickness, all between 3.8 and 4mm

once the seat comes the bike will be ready for a roadworthy attempt!

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Yeah it is. Front brake requirement from July 86. My bike is October lol. Victorian roadworthy is bullshit right. The current front brake switch works but is worn so you have to pull the front brake to lock for the light to come on. It might get through. It's silly that the switch isn't adjustable like the rear.

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IMG_1393_zps38050dfe.jpg

GHETTTTOOOOOOOOO black n chrome hahah

a great way to cover up rusty spokes the cheap way...

will polish up the hubs with the drill buff when i get a chance...

I rode the bike a bit more, clutch still slipping so I am gonna strip down and check the steel plates for flatness on a sheet of glass, I will also do a quick cross sand with 400 on the friction plates to see if I can rough them up so they grip...

I dont get it, the material thickness is correct, the clutch is adjusted properly, the springs are 15% stiffer than stock, I have 5 plates, 5 friction discs, and the thing still slips with high performance castrol wet clutch stuff...

THE plates MUST be warped, or friction discs glazed I cant think of anything else

grumble grrr...

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whats with the fact the mating surface where the clutch face plate (that the springs compress onto the plates) mates with the friction plate is only like half the thickness of the friction plate,, that just seems like wasted grip....

:shakeno:

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  • Moderator

........will it permanently contaminate the friction material?

If someone has done it and it is a wet clutch then yes.

I would check the set up of the cable etc and that the clutch is installed correctly first. Often older bikes have a ring between plates 1 and 2 and the plates are marked and the marks are rotated at 120 degree intervals.

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Screenshot2014-08-28at81632PM_zpsd9925b6Screenshot2014-08-28at81632PM_zpsd9925b6

as per this

goes

- clutch drum > steel > rubber > friction (repaat x5) > clutch face plate

OK two things that may also be wrong

- I think perhaps the pushrod is bent, I noticed when i pulled the clutch in that the plate did not lift evenly, it was a bit crooked, BUT stil this should not affect the clutch operation when the clutch is not engaged?

- I just put the steel discs one slot apart on the drum, I was going on the pointy bit, but not the cutaway area, so in saying that my steel plates are not 120 deg apart. I will have to fix that.

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  • Moderator

I can't see the picture, I'm on my phone. The picture will not show the plate rotation if that is required a bent pushrods is not good. Is there a ball bearing in the picture along the pushrod? These fall out but I can't see on my phone.

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6 is the rubber cushion ring

there are 5, evenly spaced.

the bearing is in there (this would produce the inability to declutch if it was missing)

heres the picture that shows the cutouts

Screenshot2014-08-28at100759PM_zps8f53f7

I did this wrong... I was just offsetting the small bump in the plates, I didn't actually take note of the entire cutout which extends like you said almost 100 degrees in diameter of the plate... I will offset them properly and do all the above and hopefully this fixes..

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