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Chains not lasting


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Grouch"o you still selling her " :rolleyes: someone gonna get a fully restored XT,, :yeah:

Haha no mate, fuck that. Might as well keep her for the sake of getting a grand for her. When I do upgrade later this year I'll just put her in the birds garage and fire her up once a week.

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It depends, my DT50 was using split link chains (used to change them 9-months to a year) but my 900 fireblade and XJ600 used riveted chains, the key to keeping any chain good is to keep it clean and lubed, any grit that the chain picks up will stick to the oil and form a viscous paste that wears the chain faster, only way to combat this is to wipe it off and clean it/

if you can, remove the chain and wash it with isopro alcohol, dry it off and relubricate with chain oil,

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I'll be getting a new chain in a couple of days time and the dealer said they come with a split and a rivet link. Advised me that I should be better off getting it riveted but it would still be possible to run on a split link because it's such a small engine. If I do rivet it then it just means that I'd be using the chain brush to clean off any grit.

Any pointers on what do with a new chain? I've read that some riders like to dunk it in engine oil or is it just as good to lubricate with chain oil?

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A split link will be fine as the side load is minimal if fitted right. I have one on my RD350B, 400C and the most powerful Nippy Norman. :spin2:

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Any pointers on what do with a new chain? I've read that some riders like to dunk it in engine oil or is it just as good to lubricate with chain oil

I always keep an old deep fat fryer that the wife was throwing out

put engine oil in it and put on a low heat for an hour or so and the warm oil penetrates the links better than just putting oil on the surface of the chain..

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I wouldn't use warm engine oil myself as its to thin and will squeeze out of the rollers, you need something more permanent. Its OK on the outside. Also it will fling on to your tyre and then you know the rest.

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I've been fitting chains for 40+ years and I've never had a split link come apart. You must fit the clip with the rounded end pointing in the direction of travel, make sure the clip is properly located in the grooves

Engine oil will throw off.

Take the bike for run to warm the chain up, bike on the centre stand, use one of the many spray on jobs (I use the Silkolene) that goes tacky after a few minutes

Rotate the wheel by hand for a couple of minutes

Brush on some ACF50 every coule of weeks to keep rust at bay

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Yea I use Silkolene too but recently got a can of this "White Chain Lube" which apparently is better, idk. I wasn't really sure whether I should be spraying ACF50 on the chain. Thanks for the tip!

Got a call from the dealer today saying that my sprocket and chain kit had arrived. The company that dispatched the kit somehow messed up the order and sent a D.I.D. ordinary HD chain instead of the O-ring one I ordered. The guy said that the ordinary chain is pretty good but I can wait for the correct O-ring chain to be re-delivered. Me being impatient just settled for the ordinary chain (the price difference will reimbursed of course). This chain was apparently two links longer too so they were happy to remove them. I for some reason now regret sticking with the ordinary chain instead of waiting another week for an O-ring chain. Someone put my mind at rest, ordinary chains aren't that bad compared to O-ring chains, right :(?

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But need more maintenance, O Ring are better as the oil inside cannot get out that easy.

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O rings are great at keeping the lube in, but the rubber seals create friction in the chain that saps power, and when the seals go the chain is effectively borked, regardless of how much adjustment is left it's downhill rapidly from that point as the effected link wears rapidly.

Non O ring chains are less fussy - when it gets mucky just whip it off and dunk in a bath of paraffin to clean it, followed by a drying session then a cozy bath on top of the cooker in some chain wax:

chain_wax_2.jpg

In Ye Olde Tymes, a chain treated properly like this would last flippin' ages as the wax would get right into the links keeping everything supple. The fact that power outputs were a bit lower than modern hyperbikes may have helped somewhat, but on the XT I don't suppose you've got a surfeit of neck-snapping, chain-stretching torque on tap......

Alternatively, get a shaftie and forget grovelling around on your hands and knees forever.

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Awesome, this makes me feel much better about settling for a standard chain. How often do you whip off your chain to do this? It sounds like a great way to keep your chain in top shape but surely taking the clip off the split link x many times isn't too good, in which case the clip is also to be replaced at some point? Could you use the "Putoline Ceramic Chain Wax" spray as an alternative, not sure if it's the same stuff as you get in that tin.

Also, it's my understanding that nobody likes a shaftie :P.

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I used this "CHAIN WAX" many years ago, it was brilliant stuff and every 6 weeks or so would take the bonnie chain off and give it a good boil, never had a chain break or even squeak on me, believe it or not my DAD told me about it and he used it on his BSA back in the late 50s. :jossun:

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Awesome, this makes me feel much better about settling for a standard chain. How often do you whip off your chain to do this? It sounds like a great way to keep your chain in top shape but surely taking the clip off the split link x many times isn't too good, in which case the clip is also to be replaced at some point? Could you use the "Putoline Ceramic Chain Wax" spray as an alternative, not sure if it's the same stuff as you get in that tin.

Also, it's my understanding that nobody likes a shaftie :P.

How often? How often do you use the bike? If it's in daily use through all weathers I'd say once a month, with a weekly check/wipe down/spray lube. If it's used less then do it less, but whichever way it's a case of keeping an eye on it and getting to know the signs...

If the split link is removed properly it should last, remember you just want to push the spring clip forwards so it pops out of the seat. Even if it gets fatigued they're just pennies to buy, so no great heartache.

The spray wax is good to use between baths, but it doesn't get deep into the links, only a good hot soak will do that.

Your understanding is wrong :tounge: - a shaft is the only civilised way to propel any reasonably sized bike, Yamaha even put one on the wee 80cc Townmate to make it the ultimate bomb-proof low maintenance commuter. The best chain drive I ever had was an MZ250 with the rubber enclosures filled with grease, 50,000 miles on one chain with only a couple of small adjustments, now that's how to do it!

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Cool, so I would just heat up the tin as it is and dunk my chain into it. Say if I were to do this once a month, how many times could I reuse the tin before it needs replaced? At £25 a tin, it isn't exactly on the cheap end of the spectrum :P.

I see what you mean about shafties, but I take it's a lot more hassle when it does need maintenance/repair in the long run?

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John, Keep going until it's gone and doesn't cover the chain, simple really, and DON'T get it to hot really f**ks up your kitchen if it smokes. :biglaugha:

See preloads photo (previous page) says it all really.

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