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WR400F - Not Starting after flooded engine... Advice greatly needed


ktm301p
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Hi all,

My WR had a full engine rebuild, but has been stood for about a year. (off the ground on a stand). When I first started it, it fired after the first 3 kicks and idled nicely until I turned it off. A few weeks later I did the same and it was a bit harder to start this time, but it eventually ran and warmed up.

I tried starting it the other day, but it wouldn't go. Despite not using any throttle when kicking it, and having fuel & choke turned on, it was dripping fuel at the bottom through the tube as if it was being flooded.

I then tried bumping it in second and third but still nothing, there was compression and we even got a few backfires but it wouldn't run.

The fuel isn't old or contaminated so I wasn't worried about the carb having jelly in it, and I even took it down to my local Yamaha garage and asked them to change the spark plug (I don't have the special tool needed to get in there myself!).

They told me after changing it, they could get the occasional spark upon kicking it, but nothing consistent. They gave me back the bike and this is where I am now.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Any ideas as to what it could be or what I can do to get it going?

I'll do my best to answer questions you might have,

Cheers,

Alex

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i keep getting it on my xt125 due to there being a vacuum petrol feed that seems to not stop the petrol going through or its just whats in the line flooding it? Every time it happens i have to strip the bike take the carb off tip all the the petrol out of it (the carb) put back together and works every time.

but you say you have a petrol switch? so maybe its just the amount of petrol left in the line that has flooded it? just a suggestion..good luck :)

ALSO posting an introduction will help your chances of getting more reply's and suggestions

how do you find the WR400 anyways? thinking of getting one or the 450 when i pass my test, look lovely and not much bits sticking out from the frame.....i have gone through soo many rear brake reservoir on my XT , too the point that i have made a small piece of metal to go over it in the hope that it will help it take wee bumps....we shall see hahaha. also seat height? im about 5fot 9 might i be abit too short for one?

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i keep getting it on my xt125 due to there being a vacuum petrol feed that seems to not stop the petrol going through or its just whats in the line flooding it? Every time it happens i have to strip the bike take the carb off tip all the the petrol out of it (the carb) put back together and works every time.

but you say you have a petrol switch? so maybe its just the amount of petrol left in the line that has flooded it? just a suggestion..good luck :)

ALSO posting an introduction will help your chances of getting more reply's and suggestions

how do you find the WR400 anyways? thinking of getting one or the 450 when i pass my test, look lovely and not much bits sticking out from the frame.....i have gone through soo many rear brake reservoir on my XT , too the point that i have made a small piece of metal to go over it in the hope that it will help it take wee bumps....we shall see hahaha. also seat height? im about 5fot 9 might i be abit too short for one?

Thanks for the suggestion! When bump starting it we turned off the fuel in order to try burn of any petrol that may have been left in the line from flooding it.

I haven't actually ridden the 400 yet! I had an XT before this and I've been dying to get a ride on it. I'm 6ft3 and it feels just right, I would say given your height you'd be able to ride one, just don't expect to be able to touch the floor unless you get a lowering kit. :) Also, it feels a heck of a lot bigger than the XT I found.

Thanks again.

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Acommon problem with the WR"s is the stator dies/gets weak,the bike will start sometimes 3rd 4th kick others 1/2 hr of kicking then run like nothing is wrong and start the rest of the day.

The CDI is the brains of the operation and normaly don't go.

1. check you ignition coil's primary resistance orang +to black - wire .20~.30ohms at (20c 68 f)

2. secondary resistance orange - to spark plug wire + cap removed 9.5~14.3 k ohms 20c

3.pick up coil tested at the plug comming from the stator assembly red + white - 248~372 ohms

4 charge coil#1 brown + green - 640~960 ohms @20c

5 charge coil#2 pink+ green - 464~696 ohms

Now here's the bitch the fn charge coils might test ok but sill be breaking down when put to use.This has happen on several occasions with different bikes my wr did it and so did my budys xl600.Luckly his went first he first change the pick up coil then the ignition coil,cdi, as a procces of elimination starting with the cheaper stuff finnaly he changed the charge coils the bike started 1-2 kick everytime after,but he went 6 months with a bike that would start eventualy. When mine first acted up I had trailered the bike 3 hrs away and thought it was just flodded ( i had forgot to turn the gas off after starting it befor we left) so we towed the bike around with my budds van for about 15 min trying to bump start it( after cleaning the plug) finnaly it started and ran fine the rest of the day. The next day I kick my ass off for about 20 min and it finnaly started again running and starting fine. A week of this and this got me thinking about the xl so after testing everything I bit the bullet ordered up a stator instaled and wa laa bike fixed!

Getting the spark plug out use a 2 1/2 in extension+sparkplug socket break the plug loose with the ratchet then remove the ratchet extion and socket,then with a rubber hose or old spark plug boot (one from a car wil work as long as its long enough) fit it over the porcelin spin the plug out.To install fit new plug into rubber hose spin in by hand then tighten with tools.

This was a piss por desine as the frame is in the way and all tools will get jamed between the frame before the plug is out.NOTE blow the spark plug gally out with compressed air first so any dirt that might have gotten in there dosen't end up in the motor.

I know this is a long post but here's my suggestion turn on the gas so you konw the carb is full turn it off then kick till your dead or it starts if it back fires during this time thats a good sign the stator is nfg,if you get it running let it warm up fully or go for a ride then when back home shut it off and try restarting if it fires up normaly the stator is going

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i know when i had a weak-inconsistant spark on my honda it took me while to find it i replaced most parts from the pickup,coil,stator,regulator and numerous plugs turns out my cdi had died..

the man above seems to know his stuff about wr's so get amongst it

ken

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Acommon problem with the WR"s is the stator dies/gets weak,the bike will start sometimes 3rd 4th kick others 1/2 hr of kicking then run like nothing is wrong and start the rest of the day.....

Thank you so much for all of that information and advice.

I will start going through this process and will let everyone know how I get on and what the result is

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I agree Paul but it's one of thoes things that only seem's to work now and then,

It's just the nature of the beast the dam things are just realy hard start with a week coil cold eng temps ,noting to do with outside temp.. Mine went 2 weeks after a rebuild possibly a flexing thing removing it and replacing it?????

But thats another thing ,,,,lets wait and see how the test's come out if it's at the upper limits my bet is on the stator/magnito coils. No battery to compensate for weak volt/amps .

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