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SR250 fuel system, brake light switch and Neutral light help


XTCBOY316
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Hey guys, I have a 1985 Yamaha SR 250.

Unfortunately I have 3 problems I need to deal with in order to get the bike registered.

Brake light stays on

Neutral light stays on in dash

I need to reconnect the fuel lines and i'M unsure of the placement.

First of all my tail and brake lights are always on,

I realize that my tail light should stay on but the little button that my front brake lever pushes in to activate the brake light is stuck on.

When I changed the broken brake and clutch levers to new ones I greased them and I think i clogged the buttons

Is there anyway to fix them for instance WD 40 or silicon spray?

Or would I need new switches?

Secondly my neutral light is constantly turned on in the dash....

Would this problem be the same as the Brake light switch?

And finally when I bought the bike none of the fuel lines were connected...

Can I please get a diagram of the fuel system or a verbal run down of this as im new to bikes.

THANKS GUYS!

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Regarding the brake light was it working ok before you changed the lever ? Could be if it is an after market lever it's not pushing the little plunger in on the switch. You could try taking the lever off again and spraying some wd40 or contact cleaner in the switch to see if that helps free it off.

Do you mean the neutral light stays on even when you put the bike into gear. If so it could be a pinched neutral wire touching earth behind the LH side engine cover, look for a single plain blue wire near the front sprocket and make sure it hasn't been pinched.

Seem to remember the SR250 had a vacuum operated fuel tap so the main fuel line to the carb should fit on the big stub on the bottom of the tap and there should be a smaller stub on the tap for the vacuum pipe that comes from a stub on the inlet manifold.

Tony

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Yeah the brake light was working before I switched the levers,

I think you might be right about the aftermarket levers being slightly different

And yes the Neutral light stays on even when its in gear

I'll have to check all of this out after work...

Thanks for the help, I'll get back to you!

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I cleaned up the brake and clutch lever switches and it turns out the button for the brake lever has partially been broken off,

Next payday I'll have to try and order a new one.

I hooked up the fuel system as advised but it seems like the smaller stub on the tap that i connected to the inlet manifold is flooding the crankcase.

any ideas?

~thanks

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Just had a look in a manual for the SR250 and it shows the smaller stub for the vacuum pipe that goes to the inlet manifold on the tap at the 9 oclock position and the main fuel pipe to the carb stub on the tap at the 6 oclock position. Is this the same on yours ? If you disconnect the fuel pipe and have the tap in the ON or Reserve position you should have No fuel coming from the tap but if you turn it to PRI or Prime you should have fuel coming out. If you have fuel coming out of the smaller vacuum stub on the tap it sounds like the diaphragm in the tap has split. Make sure you don't leave the tap in the PRI position as this should only be used when filling an empty carb .Normal use the tap should be left in the ON position.

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Yes that's the same on mine.

Unfortunately having the tap to ON or RESERVE causes the fuel to pour out.

thankyou! by the sounds of it that seems to be my problem,

I'll empty out the tank tomorrow and pull the tap off and see what i can find.

I also still need to check out if i have a pinched neutral wire for the light on the dash.

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I bought and installed a new aftermarket tap on the bike as apparently OEM parts would have cost me a fair bit more,

It hasn't got the vaccum pipe connecting to the inlet manifold, Just the fuel to the carby.

My local mechanic i got the parts off just told me to block off the inlet manifold stub and turn off the petrol from the tank as soon as i turn the bike off after use.

The bike runs and sounds clean no knocks or rattles, but i think i might install a POD filter as my airbox is now clogged with bits of oil and fuel and I can't get inside it without braking it.

Any chance you would know what size/type of POD filter to install Tony?

Turns out when I changed the brake light switch the Neutral light came good, Not quite sure what happened but I guess it could've been from me shorting it out.

Almost time to get it registered!

Can't wait :)

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Not sure what Pod filter you would need but personally I would leave the standard airbox on otherwise you will probably find you will have to start messing about with changing the carb jets to get it to run right. If you remove the LH plastic sidecover below the seat it looks like there are four screws that hold on an access plate on the airbox to get to the airfilter to clean it.

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Yeah I have heard about the internal adjustments that need to be made,

If i go that way I might just pay for a mechanic to do it.

I checked out the airbox, One of the screws heads is stuck,Even with WD 40 i can't coax it out.

Im thinking I might try and drill it out so i can get inside

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