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1974 dt175 clutch?


little dave
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sad day, my clutch is strating to slip in the higher revs. when im in 5th gear and at 5k if i go WOT it jumps from 5 to 7k still holds its own speed wise just seems to get to top rev a bit faster than before. so i figured that i may need a new clutch. or parts therein. it started out when i put fresh oil in the box and yes im sure that i used the right stuff. its the same stuff i have been using for the past year and a half.

while i was at it i put in a new spark plug, at first i thought that it was just running better, but the gearbox is getting kinda hot. i dont smell burned oil when i take off teh fill cap, but..

anyway, i know that many of my friends here with dt's may know a bit more than i, and would like to know what is entailed in doing the job, or should i just have a mechanic do it.

please help. its been a week and im going thru DTs from not riding my dt.

i was thinking that i would order all the parts and then if i decided to have a mechanic do it i could give him all the parts, so i would like to know what to buy.

also, if anybody has done the job themself, please tell me how it was done. im fairly good with my hands but dont want to get in too deep.

thanks a bunch, and im sorry i havent been around as often as i was. new job and all keeping me too busy.

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you will need at least the friction plates and the springs possibly the metal plates as well and also a gasket for the cover,

remove clutch cover, take plates out look at the outer basket and if it has ridges on the teeth file them off if they are not too seriously deep, then replace things in revers order,

I:E one friction plate one metal plate, take note of how many friction plates you take out because some packs of plates cover several diferent models of bike and may have an extra plate in them for a different model

merv

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sad day, my clutch is strating to slip in the higher revs. when im in 5th gear and at 5k if i go WOT it jumps from 5 to 7k still holds its own speed wise just seems to get to top rev a bit faster than before. so i figured that i may need a new clutch. or parts therein. it started out when i put fresh oil in the box and yes im sure that i used the right stuff. its the same stuff i have been using for the past year and a half.

while i was at it i put in a new spark plug, at first i thought that it was just running better, but the gearbox is getting kinda hot. i dont smell burned oil when i take off teh fill cap, but..

anyway, i know that many of my friends here with dt's may know a bit more than i, and would like to know what is entailed in doing the job, or should i just have a mechanic do it.

please help. its been a week and im going thru DTs from not riding my dt.

i was thinking that i would order all the parts and then if i decided to have a mechanic do it i could give him all the parts, so i would like to know what to buy.

also, if anybody has done the job themself, please tell me how it was done. im fairly good with my hands but dont want to get in too deep.

thanks a bunch, and im sorry i havent been around as often as i was. new job and all keeping me too busy.

Real easy if you know even a little bit.

Drain the oil, you can do it without but if the cluch is burning then the oil will have [email protected] in it anyway.

Take off the rh crancase cover.

Great big round thing is your clutch, undo the 5 bolts in the outer plate, much as a screwdriver is tempting use a spanner as they are VERY soft. As you undo them you will loosen the springs. Dont worry they won't ping off by the time the bolts are loose the springs will be loose too.

Take out the clutch pack and make a note of the order of the plates. You will have plain (metal) plates and friction ( have little strips of friction material on them) plates.

Check the metal plates if they have blue'd ,as obvious as it sounds their buggerd, and use a sheet of glass to make sure they are dead flat. That means out less than a couple of tho.

Check the slots in the basket where the plates run if there is any ridges clean them up with a swiss file to take off any ridges.

Note, The new friction plates may need soaking in oil first.

Pop it all back together, assembaly is literally the removal in reverse. Dont hammer it for the first couple of miles.

Job done, you may get a bit more from the old clutch with some stronger springs possibly, but false economy unless you are selling it on.

Specs

Friction plate thickness, .1181 in

Plain plate thickness ..0472in

Plain plate warpage 0

Spring free length 1.2402in

Edit: couple of extra points, the metal (plain) plates rarely if ever come with a 'clutch' sometimes its just the friction plates alone. If it were me I'd change the plain plates too as they are often enough the cause of a clutch slipping cos they are not flat anymore. They get hot warp more heat more warp etc.

You will have to order the crankcase gasket and the springs too. STD / heavy duty springs?up to you make no real difference on a DT if the clutch is in good nick.

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i always stick a new set set of springs in any clutch i take out it is easier to do it at the time than have to tear it down again , use a bike specific oil, modern car oils can have anti friction additives that will make the clutch slip

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thanks to all of you.

will i need to remove the oil pump assy and the tach cable before i start?

also, i know it may sound dumb, and i probably have one. but whats a spanner?

my mind conjures up an image of a crescent wrench. buy im sure its not that.

considering that i have rebuilt the carb on the bike and also my car. done my own car brakes and last month swapped out my steering column on my suburban in 2 hours, it seems like something i can handle.

the job just sounds more daunting than it is.

using glass to make sure the plates are flat is a great idea. i have an old car windshield that would do the trick (haha)

this week i shall pop the cover and see what i got going on in there. then i will source the parts.

i may as well try switching the plates and such around while im in there.

i will be back later on this month when im done to let you all know how it went. (to praise you or curse you)

if anybody has more advice i would still like to hear it.

until it started slipping, it (the whole bike) was doing well. even gave a camaro a run for his money. hahaha he looked a bit buggered when i kept up with him when he came off the line. my glee didnt last too long tho, but he still had to put more effort into winning than he would have reckoned. i suppose 68-70 mph down a busy street isnt mature at all. but dang tootin it was fun! :P

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spanner = wrench

thank you merv! thats what i had thought. hence "to span an object" but it was better to ask beforehand so that i didnt find out that it was some sort of bizzare split end screwdriver or something.

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dont worry about disconnecting the oil pump just leave it connected and tie it out of your way, saves having to bleed/reset it afterward

Britain and America divided by a common language

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