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armyofda12mnkeys

xs400 clutch adjustment

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I was trying to do a clutch adjustment this weekend for first time. wasnt really sure what to do... I took off the rubber clutch adjustment cap, and found a 12/13mm hex nut (or locknut, sorry about terminology haha). The Haynes+Clymer manuals said to loosen it, but I tried turning it counterclockwise to no avail. There is a screw I guess holding it in, that looks a tiny bit stripped... but anyway, should I unscrew that with a Phillips so when turning locknut counterclockwise it actually can move 'backward'/towards me (or i shouldnt be touching the screw itself, but only the locknut with a socket wrench)?

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first you need a 10mm box spanner and a philips screwdriver.

the locknut on the clutch adjuster needs to be undone with the box spanner then the screwdriver can be fed through the box spanner and turned clockwise till it lightly stops, then back it off 1/4 turn.

holding the screwdriver still, tighten the box spanner/lock nut up, done

at the clutch lever there should be 3 - 5mm "slack" in the cable

drewps

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first you need a 10mm box spanner and a philips screwdriver.

the locknut on the clutch adjuster needs to be undone with the box spanner then the screwdriver can be fed through the box spanner and turned clockwise till it lightly stops, then back it off 1/4 turn.

holding the screwdriver still, tighten the box spanner/lock nut up, done

at the clutch lever there should be 3 - 5mm "slack" in the cable

drewps

cool, thanks drewpy! I'll try it out.

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cool, thanks drewpy! I'll try it out.

Dam no hardware stores Lowe's/Home Depot here had box spanners (had huge looking versions of them for plumbing use). And can't find one place online in American that sells them? (only see some metric kits for sale in the U.K.)...

Can this adjustment be done with another tool/Socket Wrench?

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Dam no hardware stores Lowe's/Home Depot here had box spanners (had huge looking versions of them for plumbing use). And can't find one place online in American that sells them? (only see some metric kits for sale in the U.K.)...

Can this adjustment be done with another tool/Socket Wrench?

If you are in the states Army, Sears has CRAFTSMAN tools. Get a combination wrench or set of wrenches so you will have what you need for future jobs...... :)

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Dam no hardware stores Lowe's/Home Depot here had box spanners (had huge looking versions of them for plumbing use). And can't find one place online in American that sells them? (only see some metric kits for sale in the U.K.)...

Can this adjustment be done with another tool/Socket Wrench?

you not got one in the yam tool kit?

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you not got one in the yam tool kit?

Well right now, just have generic tools to get job done like a metric wrench kit (Gearwrench X-Beam Combination Ratcheting Metric Wrench Set)

and a metric socket/sparkplug wrench kit (which one socket fit the nut, but couldnt loosen), and some various screwdrivers.

But drewp mentioned a box-spanner to specifically to do that job. wasnt sure if a regular socket wrench can do same thing (maybe im not turning hard enough or something).

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you could, loosen the nut , then adjust the clutch and hand tighten the socket with the screwdriver holding the scew in place, then nip up the nut! not perfect but can't seeing the screw moving too much

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Here's what you do. Get a 6 or 12 point 12MM deep socket. Put it over the lock nut, hold the socket with a vise-grip. Insert a Phillips head screwdriver (through the 3/8 or 1/2" opening where the ratchet attaches) and holding the screw stationary, turn the socket counter clockwise to loosen the lock nut. Make necessary adjustments. To tighten the screw after adjustment, hold the screwdriver steady and turn the socket clockwise to tighten the nut.

HINT: replace the clutch cable (I wasted a lot of time on a seemingly good but stretched cable).

I will forward from the factory book the clutch adjustment procedures (in correct sequence) if desired. Let me know.

Good luck.

Phil

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Phil's procedure is the same one I use- just went through that last week. My tip is to be sure the phillips driver tip you use seats nicely in the screw they strip out fairly easy especially if it hasn't been adjusted for awhile they can be stubborn (I know from experience).

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Here's what you do. Get a 6 or 12 point 12MM deep socket. Put it over the lock nut, hold the socket with a vise-grip. Insert a Phillips head screwdriver (through the 3/8 or 1/2" opening where the ratchet attaches) and holding the screw stationary, turn the socket counter clockwise to loosen the lock nut. Make necessary adjustments. To tighten the screw after adjustment, hold the screwdriver steady and turn the socket clockwise to tighten the nut.

Phil

Cool thats very easily understandable. Thanks for details :)...

My tip is to be sure the phillips driver tip you use seats nicely in the screw they strip out fairly easy especially if it hasn't been adjusted for awhile they can be stubborn (I know from experience).

Yup, Im a bit worried about that. Is the screw availble somewhere here?: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1978/XS400E/CRANKCASE%20COVER/parts.html I see the clutch adjustment cover, but not the locknut or screw inside... maybe a different part of the site.

in case stripped?

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if your really worried about stripping the cross head, just take out the lock nut completly and the screw will come with it( or if its ok will stay behind).

loosen the screw up and then adjust as normal!!

drewps

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if your really worried about stripping the cross head, just take out the lock nut completly and the screw will come with it( or if its ok will stay behind).

loosen the screw up and then adjust as normal!!

drewps

Say Drewps, sounds like we're milking this thing..... :P

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if your really worried about stripping the cross head

Say Drewps, sounds like we're milking this thing..... :P

haha sorry about milking it. just wanted to know what part that screw is, as I think it may be already stripped.

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Sorry to kill this thread with another question...

But just got the tools to do this adjustment past weekend... so hopefully this is my last question here :)...

I did the clutch adjustment but it didnt work out well initially.

I unlocked the locknut (clutch adjustment on the engine left side), screwed the screw till i hit resistance and moved it out 1/4th of a turn like manual says... I locked the nut and tried it out...

The neutral light went off went i tried going into 1st or 2nd gear, but didnt actually engage/get out of neutral...

I think I adjusted it a bit more (forget if I did more clockwise or counter), and now it engages the clutch... but only at the very top end of the lever action (like right before the lever is fully out does the bike move)...

1. To get the clutch to engage sooner... does that involve turning the screw further out counterclockwise?

And also the 2 manuals I have differ on what should be going on with the clutch cable adjustment before/after the engine clutch adjustment is going on...

The Clymer doesnt say anything, but the Haynes implies to unlock (turn out) the locknut there all the way out and turn in the cable (so cable will get looser when turning it in) until it fully seats against the left side, and when the engine clutch adjustment is done, to turn it out to finetune the adjustment and then lock cable locknut.

2. Any thoughts if Haynes is correct way to do the adjustment?

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I did the clutch adjustment but it didnt work out well initially.

I unlocked the locknut (clutch adjustment on the engine left side), screwed the screw till i hit resistance and moved it out 1/4th of a turn like manual says... I locked the nut and tried it out...

The neutral light went off went i tried going into 1st or 2nd gear, but didnt actually engage/get out of neutral...

I think I adjusted it a bit more (forget if I did more clockwise or counter), and now it engages the clutch... but only at the very top end of the lever action (like right before the lever is fully out does the bike move)...

cable too tight, need to slacken off the cable

1. To get the clutch to engage sooner... does that involve turning the screw further out counterclockwise?

cable too tight, need to slacken off the cable

And also the 2 manuals I have differ on what should be going on with the clutch cable adjustment before/after the engine clutch adjustment is going on...

The Clymer doesnt say anything, but the Haynes implies to unlock (turn out) the locknut there all the way out and turn in the cable (so cable will get looser when turning it in) until it fully seats against the left side, and when the engine clutch adjustment is done, to turn it out to finetune the adjustment and then lock cable locknut.

2. Any thoughts if Haynes is correct way to do the adjustment?

eh!! :huh:

after reading that a doz times, haynes does sound right, in its "implication" :P

lever adjustment is the fine tuning bit!

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