pilninggas

Welome, got any pics of this vrr? In tems of two-strokes, is it premix or oil-injection? My thoughts about two-strokes is to start it and warm it up for a minute befoe you ride off. This lessens the chance of it misfiing (known as four-stroking), change the plugs evey 1000 -1500 miles if you want it to start good everytime. good luck

mybe it was made in 92, but not registeed and used on the road til 94? my bike was made in 95 but put on the oad in 96, theefore it has a p - plate.

The key factor here is how long you intend to keep it - my guess is you will want a 125 in around a year? If you are gonna keep it for years and years (unlikely) maybe new is ok. but your mum is right. I think why not spend 600 of your budget and keep the rest for when you are 17. A lot of peeps have the new yzf125 on here maybe you will be able to buy new or secondhand in a year?

Yes DK are very well known, they usually run big ads in mcn etc. They are a dealer of PARALLEL IMPORTS, these are bikes which they have imported themselves. This is reason why it is 1000 cheaper. In essence what they do is buy it somewhere else in europe (often cyprus), they get a massve discount for buying many, then then export to the UK straight away (to avoid local taxes) and sell them here. It is cheaper, but be aware that you may not be covered by recall modifications etc - you would need to check with the dealer in question. It will not be classified as an official UK bike - occasionally this can affect insurance, but usually only if it is not to UK spec or was imported from outside of the EU (the states etc). Parallel imports used to be much cheaper, but the gap is closing and often UK bikes are just as cheap if you shop around. UK bikes may also come with a cash-back or other stuff. Other parallel dealers i can recall are KJM superbike and Taz.

yeah i do all mine myself, but i do know what the stealerships in the south west charge. if someone is capable and confident i would always advise them to do it themselves.

Are you sure this is not a GAP policy?

Well done Becky! cogratulations, my only advice is a bit cliched, just go steady as leaning to ride is an ongoing experience.

im intrigued - how does this certificate wok?

Very much depends on where you take it, if it has running isues i would take it to a motorcycle engineer rathe than a dealeship. But a full service with all fluids changed maybe £300ish. but jetting or the valve job is gonna cost!

that deale is George White (swindon/london), bear in mind that other dealers are doing R6s without all the free stuff but with yamahas 0% deal for fully £1000 less.

A number of posible causes spring to my mind: 1) worn main jets in the carbs. 2) Valve clearances out of adjustment. 3) Knackered plugs and/or coils 4) Sticking choke mechanism. Firstly see if from stone cold you can start it without operating the choke mechanism, if you can it is probably 1 or 4 (check choke mechanism by pulling the tank and seeing if it operates ok on the carbs), but is is likely gonna be main jets, hard to know for sure without seeing it run - is it rich when hot? does the engine bog-down when the throttle is blipped from idle whilst hot? you could get a factory pro or dynojet kit (factory pro better) or even replace with OE main jets and needles. If you have a workshop manual find the idle jet screws and check they are at the factory settings. Any number of motorcycle owners are presently grappling with the above problem! For (2), when wee the valves last done? if the bike has done more than say 20000miles and you do not know then assume they need to be done. again a workshop manual will tell you all you need to know. essentially the valves close up ove time due to 'valve seat recession' meaning the engines ability to breathe is stunted. this often exhibits itself as a quiet(ish) top end, reduced power and poor hot running. For (4) On any bike of unknown history, i would change the plugs as a minimum and the coils if it has starting problems or hot running issues (as you have) - this is because the coils beak down under cetain conditions. phew.... that is a lot of stuff, start with the plugs and give the carbs a once over.

these aew sensational looking bikes, but that is the main feature - they look like they could go 170mph to the untrained eye! but they are 4-stroke 125s (probably capable of 100mpg+), and even a power commander (if dynojet produce one for it) is not gonna get lots of power out of it. they are awesome little bikes if i was 17 again id be wanting one, but i was in a yam dealership yesterday and a lad was buying one with finance, the bike will be worth 1500 tops after a year on trade in yet he will pobably be making repayments for 3 o 4 years - its a mad world! if you have one enjoy it, but dont chase 2 or 3 more horsepower, whats the point?

make sure you port it - XSs ae good fo at least 85mph with a little port work why not fit something like this:http://www.thefastone.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=Demon XSs ae brilliant bikes, shame the front brake is laughable

well im no R6 expert, but i would go for the year for your model, remember yamaha may have improved the part, post manufacture if they suspect it is weak. may be work trying an R6 specific forum (there are several) o maybe chatting to a yamaha dealership mechanic near you. good luck

First things first, is this definitely a cam-chain rattle? are the carbs balanced, they can often cause a lot of noise that sounds rattly. If it is the tensioner then ultimately depending on usage the chain may have stretched to the point where the tensioner is not causing the cam-chain to be at the right tension. I would try a new tensioner first, but i would avoid aftermarket manual tensioners like the plague, unless you are racing. These are meant to be adjusted at very regular intervals, probably best not to bother unless you wanna have your tank off on a regular basis.

great bike, but £1000 for insurance?! you must be mad or loaded! go steady to start with!

well when i change pads (car or bike) i push the pistons back (the fluid returns to the mc) and put the new pads in, this avoids the need to bleed the system as no air will have entered. i then pump the brake lever to get new pads in proximity to the disk.

wearing soft shoes can lead to false neutrals, also old oil or the wrong oil can lead to false neutrals.

the diy repairs are only meant to be tempoary - i would have it checked by a pro - i had a piece of metal in the tread once that hadnt gone all the way thro, a pro-fitter and i inspected the inside of the tyre carefully and i drove it on til it wore out. intenal repairs are probably ok as the centripetal forces 'improve the seal' (i know that it is a glib interpretation!). A tyre at high speeds, can be experiencing tread forces in excess of 2000g!!!!! so repair carried out on the outside not only has to seal, but also resist this large loading.

the same thing happened not long after i did my test. the dsa brought in 33bhp/direct access. the press and the bike training industry said it was the end of biking, but here we are 13 years later and the only thing that has changed is a relative increase in insurance for novice riders. got stung by a bee on my test, but still passed 1st time - whhich was cool

more likely worn emulsion tubes, causing it to be rich as you open the throttle. means a carb strip down and the main jets replaced. they go oval with too much wear and dump fuel in.

hey disneygirl what is the mileage? maybe it needs an oil change, yam gearboxws do not like old oil. if it hasnt been changed for a while get it done/do it yourself

I had D207s on my FZR1000 for a while, they were DANGEROUS. I am an experiencd rider yet it went down twice on me. The tires would let go with no feel and unlike other tyres no chance to recover it. they are crap in the wet, the back-end of my bike would dance around all over the place. i think they only work on middle weight bikes not light or very heavy bikes. I also had an incident where they were fully warmed up and i stoppd for petrol. The front tyres must have stood in a patch of oil/diesel (like you get next to most petrol pumps) and being hot got contaminated by it, and 500metres up the road i nearly had a major off. they were cheap - £100 a pair, false economy tho' if you can get them swapped out now!

whats making it dear is your lack of bike ncb. try bikeinsurer.com