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pilninggas last won the day on April 12

pilninggas had the most liked content!

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About pilninggas

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  • Birthday 02/08/1978

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  • Current Bike(s)
    1996 FZR1000RU, 1986 RG250 Gamma, 2012 NC700X, 2011 ZX10R Ninja, 1990 XJ600 Turbo Project.
  • Previous Bike(s)
    At least 22.

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    West Beirut

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  1. 80000kms should be fine on an FZR1000 engine. as said above I'd avoid doing a rebuild - the costs are eye watering and as some of the parts are out of production by yam, so you will spend time sourcing parts elsewhere. Even if the 'economy is not important' don't end up blowing so much money you could have bought a fitter newer bike instead. Many of those era Yams with 5 valves burn oil (valve stem seals leak) so that might need doing but it is a top end job [and the valve clearances too]. My EXUP has 63000kms and although the engine isnt particularly quiet (they sound harsh by most standards), it's good to go. I find it's chassis and brakes that need more care on these things at these higher mileages (km-ages) and if the engine is good focus on these.
  2. Lovely bike. I've got a 250 gamma - which is great, but the TZR250 is a much better package and it wears a better badge!
  3. pilninggas

    What a faf.

    I find it all very therapeutic. The idiosyncratic work process with big jap multis is quite enjoyable.
  4. Stator's usually have 4 wires (in one cable sheathing/loom) coming out of them (3 phases and an earth). I'd find out what this wire goes to. If the other wires on the stator are the same colour (yellow perhaps?) then it may well be the earth. You need to get sight of a wiring diagram, so you can see what it goes to.
  5. cant you drill the old nipple out? you can buy nipples with 0.5 oversize for this reason. You can also buy bleedable banjos, they replace the existing banjo but have a bleed nipple built in - i have fitted one and as long as you orientate the caliper correctly you can bleed them out. They look like this: if you must replace the caliper, do you know the bolt spacing? There are a number of yamahas with the same ~(i think) 83mm calipers.
  6. expensive but here: http://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colours.php#makeid=165&modelid=5816&prodyear=1969 i've used them - service is good. they will supply 2k in rattle can (it has a hardener widget you activate). I've found my local auto paints place can supply most bike paint, you just need to enquire. much cheaper.
  7. It's utterly unprecedented. Like Drew i go out for some decent exercise everyday. I was planning to go to Spain on my Kwak next week - good job i never booked anything.
  8. I had a 535. got it cheap because the carbs were sticky. Remove the diaphram caps and check that the vacuum operated slides are freely moving. Unlike most bikes they are led on their sides and need ptfe spray to keep them free. Change the plugs if you havent yet done that, as that improves performance under load. If these dont cure it then check air filter and carb jets.
  9. not sure if that is it - trying to find it on maps. it's on a long sweeper in that area. wish i could remember the name.
  10. There are some great roads in the Hunsruck, the bonus is it tends to be very quiet. I've spent good time riding the roads east of Trier with little about. Loads of pristine hairpins to piss around on. The road in the first part of 3. is a good one, popular with local riders too. The shore line of Konstanz is beautiful, speeds can be slow though. There is a decent biker cafe near Singen, worth finding if you can. Dont miss the roads near the Hohentwiel either, a few tasty hairpins 7. looks spot on too. Should be a decent route.
  11. you've already done a lot of diagnosis, know that there is no spark limits the range of the problem hugely. eliminating sidestand switch, angle sensor, clutch switch is usually the first place id look for no spark, ecus are generally robust (as you have likely found out). are you sure it hasnt got an immobiliser? i know american bikes dont [god knows why] have them, but pretty much everywhere else does. you can buy immobiliser bypass units for not much. If you are 100% there is no immob maybe there is damage to the loom (burnt or mechanical damage). Id be doing continuity tests from the negatives wires of the injectors to the same connector at the ecu.
  12. Good point, well made. I just put one of the expanders behind the lower ring [they are sat on the dining table]. It clearly takes up a small amount of play and keeps the ring more concentric. As it is zero hassle to fit them, i put them in. Thanks Neo.
  13. Yes. Just freshening up the top end. Suz's fiches do not show that ring and the original pistons dont have them. Wont bother with them.
  14. Ta. I thought it might be an 'expander' for the lower ring. Funny as there isn't one on either of the existing pistons. I'm gonna leave them out.
  15. Can someone tell me what the 'wiggly' ring is for in a piston kit? like the one below on the top right:
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