pilninggas

when ive done wet clutches I always soak the plates in jaso ma spec oil overnight. The reason being is that the friction material must be oiled for cooling and for optimum performance. My guess is, that it was assembled with dry plates and not even allowed idle to 20 mins and then to sit, so the plates could take up oil. Not doing this, makes the clutch grabby, short-lived and can make some plates stick to the steel plates. Also they may have fitted poor quality aftermarket clutch plates. On a bike with monster torque, only OEM should be put in there. It needs pulling apart and careful inspection. It is highly likely the plates will now need replacment.

If it is happening in the close throttle position, it does point to throtttle position issues. All the other inputs are basically not sampled in the close throttle position. Fortunately they are not fly by wire, so it's just a regular TPS fitted to the throttle body. It could also be something very spurious and not directly related to the efi system, such as a reg/rec going out or even a battery in terminal decline, so make sure lots of basic checks are carried out before new parts are thrown at it. oh by the way: intro yourself let us know the outcome, people come here for advice and then disappear without so much as a by-your-leave

Are you sure you need to take it to a yamaha dealer to check for stored error codes? Most efi yamahas allow you to enter diagnostic mode via the dash; cant remember off of the top of my head, but holding both dash buttons down for 10 seconds and turning the ignition on should get you in. Getting a view of the official service manual for you machine will help.

I usually come off of a feed to the brake light switch. if it is less than an amp (1000mA), i come straight off. If more I use a relay. Always works for me.

All these big yams have the solenoid on a large cable within 6" of the battery, should be pretty easy to find. They dont have a bendix system used on car starter motors. Usually swapping in a new solenoid is about 15 minutes work.

i buy that in 20L cans. Best value way to buy a JASO MA standard bike oil. Hasn't caused any issues (not that i would expect it too anyway, most oil hype is nonsense). It did work out about £3 cheaper to buy it from them via the bay, not sure if it still does.

Have you accidentally stuck a bmw badge on it? I find vehicles with bmw on them seem to have indicators that dont work....

To be honest every bike ive done with bucket and shim, has been fairings off, coolant drop, sometimes air-injection off etc. it's the nature of the beast.

I've done bucket and shim valve jobs quite a few times, it's not actually ever as bad as people think. It's just about being methodical. A pain about the exhaust studs, but again it's almost to be expected with anything over 15 years old. I tend to use ceramic grease on all that stuff now, on reassembly, it works even better than copper slip imo.

the relay is the starting circuit cut-off relay, so it runs a few things. it's possible it's that or maybe a break in the harness.

must be that, or a connection or a fuse. Traceback time.

Does the pump tick when the ignition is turned on for a few seconds? Was the pump connected properly when installed? were the contacts clean and good on the brown (?) connector to the pump? a multimeter or 12v led would show if the pump is getting 12v when ign is on. Did you change the pump or did someone else do it?

Does it turn over? Can you smell fuel at the exhaust? Are the spark plugs known? How and when did it last run? Does it have fuel in it? You need to provide more information, theres probably upto 50 different variables that might be stopping it running, the usual process is to work through a fault finding sequence.

technically the first post should be in the newbs intro forum. Go and intro yourself! Love these little mt03s, yam will sell tons. Not sure what handlebar cores are? do you mean bar end weights?

Carb'ed yams with electric fuel pumps usually have a fuel filter after the pump. ~It is worth inspecting this and replacing if it is blocked. Any generic inline filter will do (a motor factor will have something close on the shelf for less than a fiver), I replace them every couple of years as a routine. Also the fuel entry to the carbs may have a filter 'sock' inside the inlet pipe. It is worth removing and cleaning.

Those aussies sure know how to make a V8 vehicle. @Alexasigno get one bought......

plastics are not interchangeable that i am aware (maybe mudguard). Wiring is not the same either, but could be made to fit.

whilst there are many common parts the tcat and tace are substantially different. A tace engine is significantly wider 40-50mm approx than the 600cc engine.

yeah just remote balance pipes. much needed too. the fzr1000 with the same engine design doesn't have them and it's a pig to get to the spigots.

the answer is in your thread title. you need to earth to the frame, extending the cables if you have to. earthing through the forks is a bad idea, the forks are joined to the frame via the headstock bearing which will have intermittent resistivity.

if it was running okay and then wasn't check the coils/leads/connections first, you may well get a good spark out in free air, but the spark may not be so good in the pressure of a charged cylinder - the coils may provide a bright spark in front of you but go weak inside of the cylinder and it's hard to replicate that (for the price of 2 coils, if of unknown history it is often worth replacing). Do not fiddle with the carbs until you are 100% sure the ignition is doing it's job properly (you can swap the coils over to see if on coil is dropping out under load). The carbs are complex and tend to go off sharply if not used. Only start on the carbs once the ignition is given the all clear.

you certainly won't get a spark unless the engine turns over, the system for generating a spark relies on the engine to have rotation. no rotation = no spark. keep us informed, would love to know what has happened to it.

Sounds like lack of lubrication. Take a look and see if it has any oil in it.

A lot of stuff now doesn't require you to adjust the butterfly linkage screws, instead there are airbleed screws that allow you to increase or reduce the volume of air allowed into the cylinder. I'm surprised he had to replace the bodies, I'd have whipped 'em off bench balanced them and then bunged them back on and then done it correctly with the bleed screws.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-H2-750-Mk4-Classic-1974-Road-Bike-Project-/272473845940?hash=item3f70b4f0b4:g:QREAAOSwux5YRB0c Cor.