Divvy_Rider

Well yeah that was what i had planed to do all along but after test riding the 05 model theres no way i'd get one which has the R6 engine, if they did the older Thundercat engine in the new shape then maybe, But even so the Fazer is 2 insurance groups higher than the SV/v-strom and at 25 those 2 groups are a big difference I dunno, I think the shop will get pissed of with me test riding all there bikes But i want to get rid of the divvy soon as it will be needing a service and new tyres so don't want to waste £350 on a bike i don't really want anymore. I Guess i just need to make up my own bloody mind and bite the bullet thanks for you help and advice anyway Stay safe Mark.

ah ok thanks for that, the following is from this website motorcycle daily "The new windscreen proved to be a big improvement (at least on this initial ride) over the old design on the 1000. I only sampled the lower of the three positions, but wind buffeting was noticeably less than it was behind the stock screen on the 1000 last year." but i guess its a big difference from one person to the next, I don't know what to do, ( well i may as well test ride it) but i'm still not sure if its for me, .. I'm 25 after all, i should be riding sports bikes but on the other hand i know i will have to go shopping and get to work every day on it. .. Oh decisions decisions! seeing as you have had more bikes than i can name! do you have any mind altering advice ? Thanks again Mark.

Hiya peeps, Was just catching up with the forum and saw this post, I am atm looking to get a new bike, last week i had a test ride on the SV650 and a Fazer600 (the new model which is a pile of s**t) so that kinda left me with the SV which i thought was excellent i loved everything about it apart from the riding position (clip on bars mostly) I know there is the naked version but i don't really like the look of it, so the only other one is the V-strom 650, was it the 650 or the 1000cc that you had? in some reviews i have read they say the buffeting had been sorted out on the 650, but if you had one and still had trouble theres no point me getting a test ride. only other thing to decide is, get the nice looking / wrist aching SV650, or the safe, soothing dual sports (that i would never need to take anywhere near off road) v-strom ) Thanks Mark. P.S I Hope everyone is well and keeping it upright now winter is here!

Congrats Mate nice one. Take care on them roads, I agree theres no need to be trying to get top speed, just take it easy and have fun ( beating "Gary Boyz"-"Boy Racers" off the lights ) you gotta love it!

Hiya bob. I ride a 600, and have the same problems, and so has everyone else i know of. the only thing that helps a bit is to try not to grip the bars to tight, (easier said than done on bumpy roads! ) and stay out of the buzzy rev range -- on the 600 it's around the 4K rev range where you get the nasty vibes, i think its the same on the 900 isn't it?. other than that the only other thing i do is wear thick(ish) winter gloves all year round Roll on pay rise, so i can start saving for a Fazer 6 one day ........

Congrats, have a on me

Hehe damn right, .. Im told that it is a Pan European!!

hiya i found this link on the diversion forum it a 40mb video of about 5 laps of cadwell park, http://www.motorcyclefolly.co.uk/gallery/d...?album=16&pos=0 I don't think me or the divvy could handle that, looks fun tho Hehe Mark.

Hiya. Congrats on the divvy Twisted, I have had mine for 1 year in 4 days and i have to say i have loved pretty much every second spent on it, I agree with every else, it is a great 1st bike and forget about the brake lines and fork springs, going from a 125 it will feel better in every way and it won't even enter your mind, you will be too busy watching the speedo, and listening to the lovely Roar it makes when the revs get up .. i know i still do As soon as i got home from work today i went for a 70 mile blast and it still feels as great as the day i picked it up, your gonna have a lot of fun. right now for some tech stuff 0 to 80mph is great (it scared the crap outta me the first time i tried mind you my last bike was only a 100cc ) 80 to 110 takes a bit of time and i get a fair bit of buffeting over 80 ( mostly just my head, im 6ft that might be why) so i tend not to go much faster than that on long straight runs And if you get caught speeding 2 times you will lose your licence (3 points each time, 6 points max for the first 2 years) (i think its the first 2 years??) so it's not worth speeding unless you know the road will be clear of cops and cameras. The only bad thing about the divvy is the vibrations at 4K revs this is a problem with all divvys so don't worry I have found that a regular oil / filter change keeps it from getting too bad, and if you stay above or below 4K everything is nice and smooth so its not too much of a problem, it anoyed me at first but you get use to it soon enough. hope this helps have fun. Mark.

Your never too old for games, .. Nothing wrong with a bit of 4play is there?

Thats the dogs bollox! Lovin it.

Ahh Cromer a great place for a blast, ( apart from all the kiddies on the 125s ) Oh well I guess they are the future bikers, .. emm Mark.

mate, hope you have a good one Mark.

Thanks peeps

It's my Birthday today, (25th) .. So i took mon/tues off work, so thought i'd make the most of it and have a Bday ride, it was only a 45mile trip but it was still good, and it's the first time i have riden at speed for ages, it scared the shit outta me on the first few long roads but i got back in to the swing of it soon enough, mind you trying to hold a decent riding line was a joke, I was all over the place .. I must get out for more joy rides, and if the weather stays like this that won't be a problem. have fun peeps

I thought it looked good, ..a nice bendy road, a little damp tho

Same here, 5 days a week at least, havent been out for a "Joy ride" for a while tho the roads seem to have been wet for the last 2 months and i don't trust my tyres when it warms up a touch i will

BTW The day after i put more air in my tyres i got to work and saw that i was missing a bar end, That extra pressure must have been to much for it to take. well that or just the normal divvy vibes nevermind, I have a new set on it now, Its a bit worrying tho because those bar ends have a fair length of thread on them, If that can work its way loose what else can / has Oh and BTW it's snowing Bloody weather.

Yeah the Wurth (Dry) chain lube is good because it doesn't fling, But my Chain is now rusty, it might just be me by not putting it on often enough, but i never have any problems with the lube i use to use ( yoshimoto - kin good chain lube) well my chain never rusted but that stuff does fling like fook I want to get a scottoiler but i'm a little worried about installing it.

Hi and Hope you find the forum as usefull as I and many others have.

talking about droping you PSI for a track day reminded me of this i found on another fourum. check it out ) "Some general information on tyre pressures from an Avon tyre representative. TYRE pressures are a crucial factor in determining how your bike handles and how quickly you wear your (not exactly cheap) tyres There are lots of myths and misconceptions about what pressures you should run in the wet, on track days or when you’re loaded with luggage Usually you’ll find someone propping up the bar who knows better than the manufacturers’ recommendations. To find out how close they are to being right we talked to a genuine expert – a man who should know tyres if anyone does Leo Smith spent years as chief development tester at Avon tyres. He is now motorcycle product manager. He said: " We probably get asked more about tyre pressures than about any other aspect of a tyre. " There’s so much bad information kicking about that people can’t separate the truth from fiction. " Smith says that is largely the fault of tyre companies themselves. Several years ago, different tyre companies recommended different pressures for different tyres and different bikes. But around 10 years ago, a decision was reached between the companies to standardise pressures so that most bikes can run on the same no matter what tyres they’re on. That standard is 36psi at the front and 42psi at the rear **** There are some exceptions, like 400cc grey imports which run 29psi at the front and 36psi at the rear. Another notable exception is the Kawasaki ZX-12R – which is meant to run 42 front and rear. But if you’ve got a modern mainstream bike, chances are you should be running the 36/42 standard That 42 figure in particular will have a lot of the gentlemen at the bar shaking their heads. But it is not a figure chosen at random. Pressures determine how your tyres deflect. The lower the pressure, the more the tyre will flex. That may make for a comfortable ride when you’re cruising in a straight line, but the tyre will flex too fast at speed and make your bike unstable. The bike will feel vague going into turns and feel like it’s going to tip into the corner suddenly. This is because the tyre isn’t " strong " enough and it’s literally buckling under you. The bike will also feel wallowy through turns and it’ll weave under acceleration. Conversely, if you over-inflate a tyre, the flex will be slower but that will make your bike more stable at high speeds. The ride comfort and the tyre’s ability to absorb shocks will be lost and your wrists and backside will take the brunt of it. The bike will feel so harsh that many people will think they have a suspension problem. Cornering won’t feel as bad as when pressure is too low, but you will again lose feel and feedback from the tyres. For example, if you ride over a stone, an over-inflated tyre cannot absorb it and the tyre breaks contact with the road. Smith says the classic myth about tyre pressures is that you deflate them for wet-weather riding. He says most grip comes from the tyre’s compound and the contact patch – and the shape of the tyre where it contacts the road is everything. Tread patterns stop water from building up under the tyres – which could caused a bike to aquaplane. Smith says: " A good front chucks enough water out of the way to enable the rear to get the power down. If you reduce the tyre pressure, the tread becomes compressed so it can’t clear as much water. " . If anything, Smith recommends you increase the rear tyre by 2-3psi in the wet but leave the front as it is. Another widely held misconception is that the psi recommendations are the maximum the tyre can take. They’re not. The figure only tells at what pressures the tyres were tested at for all-round use. You could actually safely inflate a tyre up to around 50psi if you really wanted to, although it wouldn’t do you much good. But the biggest area for debate has to be track days. If you’ve ever been to one it’s almost certain someone has told you you’ll be best off reducing your tyre pressures. You get more grip that way, they tell you. Smith has radically different advice. You should leave them alone, he says. " Racing tyres are of a totally different construction and stiffness to road tyres so they need less pressure to maintain the carcass shape. That’s where the rumours and bad advice comes from. " If you drop the psi in road tyres you will get more movement in the tread pattern. They will heat up too much and that will eat into tyre wear. You’ll almost certainly ruin a set in a day without gaining any advantage in grip. ". Smith says he’s known people to drop their rear tyre to just 22psi when heading for the track. His advice is to leave your tyres alone, saying a good tyre at standard pressures will give more grip than you need on a track day because you almost certainly won’t be going as fast or for as long as racers. Track surfaces offer much better grip than the road, too – another reason for leaving your tyre pressures the same for the ride to the track as for the ride around it. Many people also ask the experts at Avon if they should increase psi to take pillion passengers. Again there’s no need. The manufacturers’ agreed pressures of 36/42 were arrived at after testing with pillions, luggage, cold tyres and every other combination you could think of. One of the few cases when Smith does recommend you change your pressures is when your tyres wear. A worn tyre has lost a lot of its strength as the shape and flexibility levels have changed. That means it will handle differently to a new tyre. Try increasing the tyres by 2psi when you’re down to around 40 per cent tread depth. It will only make a marginal difference, but it should improve your bike’s handling a bit. You may not have to keep changing your tyre pressures, but you do have to maintain them. Smith recommends that you check them once a week as an absolute minimum but to be extra safe, you should really check them every day because a tyre can change by as much as 3psi on its own just because of changes in the weather. You should always measure your tyre pressures when they are cold. A few bikes are now coming with tyre pressure gauges in their under-saddle tool kits. If you haven’t got one it’s worth buying one. They only cost a few quid and take up about as much room as a pen. Forecourt gauges are notoriously inaccurate.

im gonna top it up tomorrow, .. but why is that anyway ?

Thanks for the info, I put a bit more air in them today, atm its 30/40 .. and does feel a fair bit better, ( i would have put the extra 2 psi in the front but my lunch brake was running out ) As for the tyre its not all that worn tread wise, .. but i think they are getting knackered because my bike is a R reg and it still has the same tyres on it since new ( previous 2 owners were fair weather riders, and only did 4K miles between them ) so they spent alot of time just standing, am i right in thinking that would screw them up just as much as being used daily? .. now if only the roads would stay dry for 1 day

Thanks for the tips guys, Seeing as i'm already using around 28/30 and it feels a bit weird i think i'll give 36/42 a go, ... and i'll get a foot pump tomorrow on my lunch brake, i've been meaning to get one for ages but keep forgeting The same goes for checking the tyre presure, I do it about once every 2 months .. I know .. i know very bad it's the same every week, get up, ride to work in a rush, get home and its dark, .. then its the weekend which i sleep most of away forget to check tyres / clean bike / go shopping .. then it's monday again!

Hi. I'm a bit confused about what tyre presure i should be using, .. the tyres on my bike are still the original ones that were on the bike from new ( it's only done just over 6k miles, Although i'm the 3rd owner ) .. I don't know what make they are, probably some cheepo make, it doesn't say anything on them as to what presure to use, but in the owners hand book it says 28/32 but i have read on other websites that there is now a general standard of 36/42, Do you use the presure that the owners manual says or go by the brand of tyre, ( or a mix of both) .. What did those of you that have /had a divvy use (pressure wise). Sorry about all of the questions, maybe this is why the bike wobbles when riding over painted lines (lack of presure) ? and cornering feels dodgy.. i should be getting new bt45's when i get time to, .. but i know the psi for them (for a divvy) is 33/40 ... anyway thanks for any help.