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jrhendryx

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Everything posted by jrhendryx

  1. This. Right here. Beautiful. Now just fix it so that we can see his face. And win.
  2. I have a Yoshi exhaust, OES frame sliders, a 12v adapter under the seat, and created a manual fan bypass switch so that I can turn the fan on whenever I want, rather than only when it nears the redline.
  3. I bought mine back in February - I love it. You can pretty much guarantee avoiding any 2nd gear issues by putting in a Factory Pro shift kit. I'm on a forum dedicated just to the Cat, and I'd say about 5-7% of those guys have had 2nd go out on them. It seems to be killed by over-revved bad shifts, not some inherent defect in the gearbox. It loves to run above 6k, and requires some dedicated clutch work around town to keep things smooth. I like the mix of 600 zoom zoom sportiness, and the more upright position than an R6 without being a fully upright sports tourer.
  4. Thanks! Wasn't sure if they were ape hangers for midgets, or cafe bars for a giant...
  5. As if I didn't have enough to do between helping plan a wedding, a full class load this summer, preparing for next school year, grand jury service, etc., I decided that I needed to rescue my first motorcycle from my Granddad's barn. Here she is, I plan to restore her to most of her former glory - running, everything working (lights, speedo, BRAKES), and reliable so that it can be a learner bike for my little girl (eventually). The good news - it runs. The bad news - I wouldn't even let someone I hated ride it, because nobody deserves to be killed by a Honda Trail 70. Here she is, barn fresh and still smelling like horse crap. First step: Clean. Second Step, dismantle carburetor. We'll go from there.
  6. I popped back into this part of the forum (haven't been in much since selling my XS500) specifically to see this thread. Looking good Drewpy! Now we need a video of it running, maybe a speed pass?
  7. If it's anything like the 600r from the same years, the dogs on 2nd gear go bad from poor shifting (usually not being firm enough). Try applying light upward pressure to the shifter to preload it before you shift. It'll almost jump into gear then. On the 600r's that did this same thing, they'll pop out of gear long before 9k rpm if 2nd has gone bad. Good luck!
  8. On every trip that isn't just surface streets, yes I do. I've got just a pair of construction ones that knock out most of the highs and lows but keep the mid range sounds pretty clear. So at speed, I can't hear my exhaust note, but I can hear the top end of the engine spinning, which is wierd. I can still hear people speaking when I'm stopped, but the wind noise (the real culprit here) is cut down pretty much to just a dull hum at highway speed. I think I need to get a better fitting pair though, any ride over an hour and a half, and they start making my ear/jaw ache.
  9. A lot of 600r guys who use the pazzo knockoff ebay ones have mentioned that they require a little bit of adjustment to get them to fit right, and that until they do, there is either up and down slop on the control, or that they stick, but that other than having to make slight fit adjustments, they seem to hold up pretty well! They used these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290581932928?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_8867wt_1045 Discussed them at length here (mods, if you'd rather not have this link here I get it, but I swear I'm not advertising and I've been a member here longer than at the link I'm posting) : http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=66752&hilit=levers Good luck on your search!
  10. Roll the bike forward, checking every couple of inches of chain to look for kinks and tight spots. That's how I had to do it when I first bought my Cat and didn't have a rear stand to put it up on. Does the bump increase with frequency as speed increases? Does it seem to smooth out as speed increases, or does it get worse? How old are the tires? I've had a tire with a plug in it before where it developed a little high spot, and it felt like a little bump or tire hop at speeds below 35 mph, but wasn't as noticable as I sped up. A picture of the chain and sprockets would help.
  11. So, this is a 96, does that mean it's a fox-eye? I couldn't really tell from the pictures, but it kind of looks that way. If so, the guys at oldskoolyzf.com might be more help than the other one that I mentioned in my other post.... on that other thread..... I'm super specific.... Anyway, looks like an awesome project, I'd totally jump at the chance to grab an Ace as a project if I could get my hands on one!
  12. I was just looking at your Thunderace thread, and was going to mention a site that I spend a lot of time on: yzf600r.com. They've got a big forum board with people that own the 600 and 1000. A lot of them have gone with the r6 rear shock to improve handling. It requires a special adapter to mount the shorter r6 rear shock to the bigger 600r under-seat mount. These bikes are really set up from the factory for someone in the 130-170 lb range. At about 200, or 230 fully geared up, I'm well over the weight suggestion for this bike, and a lot of people who are my size have also added stiffer front springs and internals to the forks. I'm not sure if I'll go with RaceTech front springs or Progressive ones, but that's a discussion I'm preparing to have over on the other forum with those guys since so many of them have done it to their bikes. My bike is a second hand, poorly treated, beaten up workhorse, but I love it to death. Things I'd like to do to it include a factory pro shift kit to improve shifts and avoid the dreaded "2nd gear failure" that these bikes are prone to, a Corbin seat for those longer rides, some kind of hard luggage setup that doesn't involve cutting the plastics apart (there aren't any made specifically to fit the 600), and possibly a jet kit. Honestly though, it's pretty much stock and I don't have anything I feel like I absolutely have to get done to it. The only modification I've done since I purchased it was to install a radiator fan bypass that allows me to turn the fan on whenever I like. It was pretty simple, and helps keep the bike running much cooler when I get stuck in traffic. Oh, I also went down a tooth on the front sprocket to make it a little bit sportier in town. Stock gearing is 15/47, and I went with a 14/47 (JT sprockets and 108 link EK o-ring chain).
  13. I had sticky floats that caused this to happen. Leaving the petcock open would make it pour out the overflow. When it was warm, if I had it too full it would push past the cap gasket and pour out onto the tank (which is why mine looked like shit). But after I tore the carbs apart and made sure everything was clean and moving freely, it worked perfectly. Clean them out for starters, and see where it goes from there.
  14. Jesus man, what Voodoo priestess did you piss off? Hopefully it's something you can get sorted out easily.
  15. I always ran my '75 XS500 on reguar (87 octane) that was a 10% ethanol blend. I'd toss a little seafood in there every other fill-up, and never really noticed a major difference. I did the same thing on my '03 YZF600R up until yesterday. Happened to be running low coming back in from a ride and pulled into a country store that had clear premium (92, no ethanol). It was nearly a dollar more per gallon, but I thought I'd give it a shot. I'm not sure if I'm just imagining it, but at idle it feels like the engine runs a little more smoothly. Under throttle I didnt notice a huge difference, but I'm going to run a couple more tanks through and watch my mileage, etc.
  16. Saw some on eBay but none that really fit what I want. I'd like to somehow integrate the Thundercats logo with the YZF letters. I've found a few ideas online, but nothing that's exactly right.
  17. Good find! Gives me some more to think about.
  18. That might actually work. It has a plastic seat pan, so maybe if I stripped the foam off, bolted an assembly to the top, and re-covered it. Better yet, since it's a long single-piece seat, I could strip just the back half. Odds are I won't be carrying a passenger if I've got bags in anyway. I never thought of doing it that way...
  19. The reason why is because I haven't been able to find any mounting systems designed for my bike, and the adjustable ones either don't fit, or require that I cut the tail section fairings apart. I could use soft bags, and probably will in the meantime, but what I really want are lockable hard bags. Waterproof, and someone can't just cut them open or cut them off. Switching to flat bar makes sense, part of the reason I was thinking of using solid round bar was for aesthetics - I just think it would look better, and I could bend it in any direction, which would mean less cutting and welding. Plus, the spot where it hooks into the round tie-down point won't be bolted, just held in place with the tension on the hook. If it were flat, it would slop sideways in the loop. I suppose I could just make the hook part out of round stock, or put some kind of rubber bushing on the hook to keep it from rattling around. I'm still trying to if figure out if this will even work at this stage. Thanks for the reply!
  20. So, I posted this on the YZF600R forum that I frequent and havent gotten any replies. Was hoping I could get some input from a design standpoint as to whether I'm on the right track here or not. I've attached the picture of the design below, as well as a shot of the bike so that you an get an idea of what I'm talking about. I'm sure this has been done before on here, but here's what several hours of daydreaming, a few beers, and MS Paint brought me to... I'm picturing using round bar for the majority of this, and using the heat and hammer method to flatten it in the places it has to have a bolt go through (maybe just welding tabs on?). My thought process was that round bar would be sturdier and flex less than flat iron. The only pieces that would be flat iron would be the cross brace that the bags would actually mount to, and perhaps a couple of crossbraces running lengthwise between the front and rear top bars to provide a flat surface for tying down items or mounting a tail bag/case/trunk... if that makes sense. Looking at the top drawing, the front space is where it would tie into the passenger peg bolts, and the space in the middle is where it would hook onto the tie-down points. This is what I drew up.... I'd love to hear some ideas or pointers. Feel free to poke holes in my design too, tell me if my design sucks and how I could improve it. My main concern is that the only actual bolt points are on the back bolt of the passenger peg. The tie down hook would just slip in and be held in place with the tension put on it by pulling it slightly down to bolt the front (back edge hooks under the loop, front edge sits on top of the loop). I'm worried about that possibly putting too much stress on that one bolt. The whole point of this is to be able to remove the entire thing quickly and have it look bone stock. I want to avoid cutting plastics if possible. Oh, and the bag-mounting cross-brace is 6" above the rear bolt hole of the passenger peg rear mount, because that was the distance between the tie-down loop and the top of the exhaust. I figured that was a good starting point to ensure clearance of the pipe. All numbers are in inches. So, what do you think? This is a first look/attempt, and I am aware that my drafting skills leave something to be desired. Here you can see the tie-down point just above the rear signal.
  21. Depends on year, but yes. Pretty sure most models have a clutch switch. My 03 does.
  22. Yeah, tell me about it. Replacing the fox one with a tank protector. Might have someone cut me some YZF decals for the tail to replace the Skin ones. Kind of like how they break up the tail section, but not the stickers themselves.
  23. Eh, had a 500B that I loved, but only because it was mine and it was a first bike. Basically they cancelled production (according to my mechanic who worked for Yamaha when they came out) the year after making the changes to the B model and then made some cosmetic changes to the D/E ones and sold them off. They're a nightmare to find parts for, specifically gaskets and oil filters. Never had any real mechanical issues with mine, and it was reliable for the 6 years I owned it. Would I buy it again? For the $400 I paid - Yes. For the $800 I just sold it for - probably not (new tires, chain, and sprockets as I'm relatively sure that all of that gear was bone stock from 1975).
  24. Had a panic moment with mine when this happened. Turned out it won't start when in gear if the kickstand is down, Even if you have the clutch pulled in. Gave me the same warning oil/fuel light flash every time I hit the starter. Kickstand up and voila.... we have zoom zoom.
  25. The cash would come in handy... So would the garage space. So I'm riding it down the road yesterday, and the oil level (not pressure) light is on. I know the oil level is correct, because I check it every day, so I assume its a sensor fault and just ignore it. I'm thinking to myself "Self, it's pretty cool that this bike has a low fuel light. I wonder when it'll turn on." Sputtersputter-cough-silence. Ffffffffffuuuuuuuuu... Turns out, the oil level sensor is just fine. The previous owner switched the wires at some point, hooking the low fuel wire to the oil light. Good times.
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