Snakebite68

From your 'Crude pic', even if there are helicoils on there, they don't appear to extend beyond the nut. So, I'd be more inclined to wonder if either: 1/ You're using the wrong sized socket (aftermarket / foreign plugs). or 2/ Your socket isn't long enough (aftermarket / foreign plugs). Try a different/deeper socket...

Yup, that's the bonus of those types of exhaust though, you can niggle them a bit to get a better fit. Mine is a solid one, bugger all I can do about it...

Most that I've had a good look at were on E-Bay and weren't in good condition, but one was New Old Stock and pristine. Still not pretty! And HEAVY!!!

Sealant for in between the different parts? Or for the manifold end? If it's for the manifold end, don't bother, just get the crushable copper washers, they're original and do the job just fine with no mess... Yeah, I like the sprung together look too, and the answer to my above question will tell me how they go together lol. I've already got an aftermarket exhaust, so it won't be as much of a difference, but I've seen an Ace with original exhaust, and they're not pretty! lol Yeah, you'd think that, but always be suspicious of anything 3rd party! Particularly if you have to paste the parts together, they may need a little fertling once you get the panels on (mainly the belly pan). Well, from what you've said, I may have to bite the bullet and save the money up for one myself now...

So you bought the one I linked? Is it really that good? Is there plenty of room between the headers and your fairing (the one I currently have on has melted a hole in my bottom fairing!!!)? Don't forget a new set of exhaust seals!

Are you talking about the link for full pipes I posted? It's £294.99, not 400... And it will fit his existing end can, so you don't need to swap that out until you want to. However, if you're interested in a new end can too, I like the look of these: Blueflame-performance-motorcycle-exhaust-and-systems (blueflameperformance.com) I'm currently trying to hassle them into doing me a twin port, tri-oval, blued titanium one. For some reason, it seems to be one of the few variations they don't offer...

E-Bay is your friend..!

Oh, you'll spend at least 1x the cost of the Ace on it! That's normal... Don't give up with the Paraffin bath idea, you've gotta dump it in there and leave it (a week or 2!). If you start cutting bits of it, or drilling, you might as well get a new one. yamaha exup ru frontpipe | eBay There's your start (assuming it's for a Thunderace), after that, you'll need the valve its self... Where about are you based?

The reason you can't find one is because removing it is one of the first things that people do with the Ace (no one ever gets around to servicing it regularly!)... But they do come up on E-Bay from time to time, you just have to keep your eye out regularly (there was actually a 'New, Old Stock' full Ace exhaust for sale not long ago!!! (It would have been mine, but I just didn't have the cash! lol)). You can't just remove it, your performance will suffer. If you want to remove it, you'll need to replace your headers. I've been thinking about coughing up for this beauty: YZF1000 R Thunderace 1996-2003 Exhaust Downpipes Headers (blackwidowexhausts.co.uk) If you remove it, you need to either leave the exup servo in place, or get one of those little electronic dooberies that fool the bike into thinking it's still there. As for freeing up the one you have. Give it a DAMN good scrub, to get any crap off it that's accessible, then immerse it in Paraffin and leave it alone for a week or two. Then have another go at it. Don't go nuts on it, it would be easy to break. Just keep working it, it will come loose eventually. Then you'll have to clean its surfaces up really nice before re-assembling it.

Welcome in!

Well... 7k revs seems pretty high, but when my YZF1000R was idling high, it turned out to be the valve gaps.

Meh, stupid regulations...

How do you lose a camping licence??? Have field, will camp..!

Yo..!

Not a mechanic, but... The key is to figure out EXACTLY where the smoke is coming from. Try smothering it in soapy water and look for the bubbles, that will give the mechanical guys more to work on!

At least you found it before you put it back together..!

Hmmm, probably your best bet would be to go to somewhere like Padgetts and order it through them, let them have the headache of getting the right one...

The old 3rd party parts are often moulded off an original, which doesn't allow for shrinkage in manufacture. The question here is HOW much smaller were these boots you bought? Are they close enough that you could stick them in hot water to relax them enough to go on?

Yey! Do a brake fluid flush first, if that doesn't sort it, you're probably looking at new plates. Yeah, the vibration through the bars caused me some problems at first, but I apparently got used to it. I did wonder about getting some heavier bar end weights made, but it doesn't seem to be a problem anymore.

Nice! Welcome in... Have you checked the baffle hasn't fallen out?

Once you get used to putting your foot back where it's meant to be, there's no hesitation. Don't E-Mail the dealer, pop in out of the blue and say: "Hi, this bike you sold me, the rear break position is all wrong for me and poses a safety issue..." They want your money, they want you to keep the bike, believing there's a safety issue with the bike is a valid reason to demand a return! They'll sort it for you, probably on the spot!!!

Someone else should get to you with the technicalities, but I do have an observation... You shouldn't be hovering your foot over your break (or under). Finish using brake, move foot backwards into proper riding position. Nice bike though, but I'd be surprised if it didn't offer the ability to alter the height of the leaver.

Google is your friend... Ground Clearance: 5.7 in OR 145 mm

Yey!

Quick google... Yamaha XT400 EUR/SWE Float Bowl Kit (nrp-carbs.co.uk)