Snakebite68

You mean this is a second account? Yeah, that's beyond my abilities here, it will have to wait till Alex gets back. I'll send him a link to this...

Well, I'd have to do a bit of digging on the rules for joining the forum, but..: From memory, messaging and adverts are controlled by a couple of things. 1/ Length of time in... 2/ Number of posts... 3/ Membership type... Although you've been here a 'while', you've only made two posts (one of which I can't find... (but we had some server issues the other week so that may be the cause)). And you're on a free account. I believe messaging will open up for you once you're more active on the site. It's possible the ads will never entirely go away unless you sub to the forums (it's not a lot per year, and it gets you discounted insurance...). Alex will probably have more information.

That's better... Dark would be good though!

Yes, faster, definitely faster... And WHITE, very, VERY WHITE..!

It's... VERY white..!

Rgr, WHEN is it going down?

Well... That's strange... You're also missing a couple of engine casing bolts by the look of it.

A 'rear chrome cover' for what?

Yey!

As in, after an engine swap? I'm sure someone will chip in with the easy answer, but I'd just phone them up, explain the problem and let them tell me..!

Hi Ho... Welcome in!

Yamaha YBR125ED 2010 SHIFT SHAFT supplied next day (UK only) by Fowlers Parts That link shows the shift leaver assay. # 11 shows a bolt that holds the leaver to the rod. If that is in place and it still moves, I would suggest that maybe the shaft has broken (something hit it in storage?) or it has become detached at the other end. Let us know about the bolt and someone more experienced will probably chip in... But honestly, if it's not the bolt, you're probably better just handing it over to a mechanic to fix. In my experience (limited), gears are tricky...

Considering the usual sort of price for these things, since you already have the engine apart, I'd personally just buy a new set and chuck them in...

I think they go into a vacuum bag, then the autoclave...

Yeah, I'm a bit of a reformed spammer... lol Fibreglass is just too heavy. There's gotta be a way to use CF! I wonder if there's any reasonably priced courses available?

So, as you all know, getting plastics for older bikes is a nightmare... I've been contemplating having a go at manufacturing some for my Thunderace. The obvious easy option is to go for Fibreglass, but, meh, it's tacky and quite heavy. The super expensive option is to create injection moulding equipment, but, we all know that's not going to happen! So what's left is Carbon Fibre... With the little I know about CF so far, there are numerous advantages and disadvantages to CF. But I'm interested in discussing it with anyone with a bit of knowledge... Questions/observations currently include: 1/ There are two types (as far as I can tell), one that requires an autoclave and one that doesn't. Which would be best? 2/ How the hell do you get the various metal fixings into the damn mould? lol 3/ Could I build my own autoclave? 4/ Does either type of CF shrink as they cure? 5/ What else aren't I asking? Discuss..! I figure this Thread is either going to get no interest at all, or is going to snowball...

Well... 1/ You're out of fuel... 2/ I suspect your thermostat isn't connected... 3/ Engine management, oh dear... That's not with the bike running, is it (since no key in)? Start by re-checking all your connections, see what turns up.

Welcome in..!

I see no questions..!

Cool! Grats I've really gotta get my Thunderaces carbs done, who knows when they were last cleaned/tuned... lol

Show some pictures, might get someone interested...

500km on it..? Have you been keeping to the run in process? Check your chain tension (initial stretch), you get all sorts of wierd crap happening when your chain is loose.

Ok, as I often say: I'm NOT a mechanic..! So take this with a pinch of salt. Do the cogs come off the shafts? Is it possible that the cogs have been put on back to front? Would that make a difference? I'm figuring it could put some of them half a tooth off if you know what I mean. The fact that it doesn't instantly drop in when you 'change gears' doesn't worry me in the slightest. When you ride, if you stop your bike in high gear and then try to go back down to 1, you have to rock forward & backwards, so that looks normal. I'm sure someone else will have other ideas too.

Welcome in!

Sad times indeed... But, maybe it's time to not completely hang up the boots, you could always swap the FJR for an old classic bike? A nice old 1920s/1930s bike??? Would give you something to spanner at in the shed and the odd pootle out to the shops on... lol