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Ryengoth

YOC Member
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Everything posted by Ryengoth

  1. Everything is in OE spec except for 2 of the wrist pins, just a tiny amount of play in the rod. Nothing I'm concerned about. Got it all set and ended up bending a ring on #4. The lower combustion ring shifted and stuck out when I bumped the cylinder down. Everything looked fine on my side, the other side not so great. Waiting on a new ring set for it now. So sick of these little hold-ups!!
  2. The 4 studs from NL are in and correct. The studs between 1-2 and 3-4 are new and the front ones have the plastic sheath for rust protection. #4 outer look fine since they've been in oil all their lives. I could not find the other 2 with the plastic so I just ordered the rear ones to justify the shipping costs. 5 more studs to order and it'll be ready to torque the head down.
  3. Vintage 1982 fork juice. Some sludge in the RH tube, but just a tiny amount. Seal looks good but they'll both get replaced anyway.
  4. Now it's the front's turn. Forks coming apart soon and wheel will be done like the rear. The speedo assembly is apart and liberated of 35 year-old waxy grease. Polished the thrust washers and has a coat of frame paint curing. Brake caliper will probably be next.
  5. Coming along. New rear bearings, sprocket and rubber. Polished the rear tail setup and the RH shock assembly. Shocks are in great shape. Going to start on the front tubes and wheel next. Engine has 4 new studs, needs 5 more before I can reassemble and paint the case.
  6. I live on the coast about an hour north of Myrtle Beach South Carolina. We are about 4.5 hours south of Cape Hatteras on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. We are about 10 minutes from the beach in Carolina Beach and a large stone throws distance from Cape Fear River. We had some flooding during the last hurricane but our current house survived it all with hardly no damage. Others west in Brunswick county did not fair as well with major flooding and total losses. ?
  7. Unfortunately, that is not a tank for the XJ550. Very close but it's too long and the tunnel is the wrong shape. Ugh.. waste of sealer.
  8. The donor tank is getting some attention now. No leaks or dents. Boy did I luck out with this one! The POR-15 kit is complete but I've actually had better luck with Evapo-Rust and Super Clean for removing surface rust on steel. The wire wheel works best but for something this big and oddly shaped I can't get the wheel in all the edges and corners. Next time, I will just buy a quart of tank sealer and remove the rust with a full tank dip in Evapo-Rust after degreasing it. The outside needs a good sanding and primer coat now. The inside is pretty spotless. I just saw a couple of 4-5mm spots on the bottom right of the saddle. I'll let the sealant take care of that. Video of the process coming soon. I'll be coating it tonight and waiting for it to cure before I finish the video.
  9. I know I can get a basic plate adapter. I want to make a custom one for my bike with a cover. I may put the Yamaha logo on it, not sure yet.
  10. Tail lenses polished out nicely as well as the turn. No need to buy new ones. Swing arm, wiring and boxes are back on. I also added the refreshed rear peg mounts and brackets. The LH side is back on. Right side rubber is soaking in a mix of synthetic power steering and regular brake fluids. It'll go on tonight. The fuse box on the donor harness was in decent shape. Used some Lemi-Shine to clean off the oxidization then sealed the paper labels with clear lacquer. Have to source one replacement fuse clip to complete the box. Working on this spin-on filter adapter housing design. A few more design changes to make after 3D printing fitment tests. Then a colleague of mine will mill it for me. 6061 aluminum for everything but the filter pipe. Not sure if I'll paint it, polish it or have it anodized yet..
  11. The signal bits have been polished and new stems installed. These are all-original but 3 of the 4 lenses have broken-off screw channels. The replacement O-ring # I ordered is too small for these. Not sure what's going on with that. Need to verify the lens and body numbers against the book. The replacement gas tank finally arrived and it's dent-free! Woo! Light rust and some graffiti are no issue at all. POR-15 3-step process is first for the tank. It will likely outlast the frame after this. The spare seat under the tank was supposed to be a clean replacement and apparently the mid-seat seam split. I put conditioner on it and it was gone the next day so I think one of the kids may have been involved. Oh well, good to know now so I can order a skin for whichever seat foam is best.
  12. Eek. Sand blasting would be a cool effect if you want a matt finish but it would definitely remove the casting texture. I imagine the sanding took a while as it did with the oxidization on this one. The clear on the polished lip refused to level out properly. I may end up re-doing it, dunno yet. At this point I can't afford to get stuff coated or rechromed. The gauge housings I have are either cracked or have major road rash and the visible bits have some rust or pitting. So, it won't be the mint restore I want. What I can do with it will be what it is. Plus, the bike value is only $250 for insurance and I've far surpassed that already. ?
  13. The rear rim is done. Lots of cleaning, sanding and buffing with steel wool. Got a bit of rash on the outer lip but it's 35 years old. Not perfect but it'll do. I wish I could take the time to grind the paint off the spoke faces but I have so much else to do. I might do it later if I have a break in parts arrivals. The engine still has no cylinders, waiting on studs.
  14. Thanks! Yes, it's a 16" rear 19" front. Finding the front and rear aspect ratio in those from the same tire series was fun. I ended up going with a Continental Go! road tire for now. I expect I'll be wanted a larger model bike once I get this one done. I'm a noob rider so I'm learning the bike from the frame up as I restore this one. I like to learn things from the inside out. So far, I like Yamaha's engineering choices. I suspect Honda is similar. To have 18k miles and been around for 35 years OE parts have held up extremely well.
  15. Thanks. Got more pics coming up. Working on rear rim, starter and frame re-assembly. Still trying to locate a single bs29 carb for the rack to replace #4 body. Found a full rack in the US for $200 but was hoping to not have to buy a whole carb set. Engine case is getting painted soon and I'll re-assemble the top-end.
  16. 3D printing a set to see how it fits. I think I may change up the hand grip, not really liking the square now.
  17. Starter needs a major cleaning and new seals. Paint is curing on the body, still have the caps to do. Brushes are in really good shape to be as old as it is. The wire wheel on the drill press makes quick work of metal cleaning, ready for paint. That's one ugly sprocket cover! Clutch cover's turn. Finish pics of the starter and clutch cover soon. Waiting on more parts.
  18. Yes, there are spin-on adapters for the XJ series, but it's just a plate like that. You still see the ugly filter sticking out the front like a wart. I'm going to make mine with a decorative cover. Similar type of construction, flange to flange plate with an M20x1.5 pass-through retainer. I'll have a cap that attaches to that plate, just not sure on the design of the plate and cap yet.
  19. I found 4 of 10 so far and I believe Len from xj4ever has the other ones. The other 2 plastic sleeved ones are only available without the plastic. The head studs are M8x1.25 on both ends, so worse case scenario I can make some. The tensile strength of the threaded rod is 150kpsi, so I don't think it'll be too weak considering the holes have aluminum threads. I could use the rod as-is since all of the holes are a little larger than M8. The reason the shanks are cut narrower than the thread is to avoid contact galvanizing between the steel stud and the aluminum block and head. The center 4 studs are larger in the shank for more clamping force, which is why they sheath them. Working on a custom oil filter kit for the XJ. Spin-on adapter and decor cover. Tossing around design ideas for CNC/lathe ease as well as base plate and cover style. Here's the starting point.
  20. Thanks. I may end up making my own from all-thread and cutting the mid-shaft threading off with a lathe. I found one of the inner cylinder plastic-sleeved ones on CMS in NL. Those are nearly impossible to find new (NOS). Shipping those will be expensive, though and they don't have all of the studs either. I guess I may have to piece this engine back together over the course of several months since one stud # could end up costing me $50-80USD to ship it here. That eBay block would be a bit cheaper than the few studs I can find online provided those studs actually come out of the block. I'm going to check the threading and diameter of the ones I've removed and see if I can get away with all-thread. Hoping it's M6x1.25, which is readily available by the meter.
  21. I'm having a hard time locating all of the cylinder/head studs for the xj550 engine. It seems that half of them are discontinued and I've already pulled all but the weird bevel-bottom one on #2, without marking them. ARGH! Is it possible to locate them in the UK? All of the distributors in the US have at least 2 if not 3 of the 5 part numbers unavailable.
  22. Ended up pulling the jugs anyway. Looks like the studs are rusted bad, guess they'll get replaced. Cylinder bores have been honed. Piston and rings look good, just gonna clean them up. Wrist pins were tight so going to re-install with new clips.
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