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Skutter

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  1. Thanks Naruf, I assumed it was a generic comment rather than dismissing all chains as I can't see a chain being allowed on the market that was fundamentally unsafe (not a great bit of drafting Mr Haynes!). Read a comment somewhere else re the link direction but will triple check I'm doing it right when I fit it . Now waiting for postman and getting kettle ready for actually doing the work.
  2. Thanks Cynic, You are right about the chain routing - I hadn't followed the path. If I can't find a decent blade for my grinder I will clip it with the bolt cutters. I think I found the standard wemoto chain that you mentioned ( www.wemoto.com/bikes/Yamaha/ybr_125/10/chain_did_standard_grade ) Slightly concerned by a note in the Haynes manual that you should "never use a clip-type connecting link instead of a rivet-type link, except in an emergency" as the DID chain comes with a "spring link" ... are Haynes just being overly cautious? Once I get a few bits I am going to dump the oil, swap the plug and swap out the old petrol and get it started. I expect it just needs its throat cleared and a bit of a use of the brake disc but we will see.
  3. YBR125 2010 Hi folks, hopefully the collective experience here will be able to help a newbie question ... Just took my 125 out of storage to fix it up for my son and have a question re the chain. Basically I am looking to replace the chain (couple of links seem stiff) but am not sure which replacement to go for ... there are a pile of chains out there ranging from very cheap to WTF :-). I looked at Wemoto and one of the chains had the note "if the original equipment chain was an o-ring or x-ring chain it must not be replaced with a non o-ring or non x-ring chain. It must be replaced with a sealed chain of equal or greater strength" ... being honest, I have no idea how this affects my choice or if it is just standard blurb. My questions are: 1. Any thoughts on a decent chain specific for the bike? I would rather not have to shorten it . 2. Do I need to replace the sprockets at the same time (front and rear are in good nick as the bike has really low mileage)? Not sure if different chain needs a certain sprocket type/pattern. I am also not looking to go up or down a tooth. From the Haynes manual a sprocket switch doesn't look that bad but would rather avoid if not necessary. 3. The existing chain doesn't seem to have a split link on it so I presume (if I am just replacing the chain) I can just cut the chain or use some sort of tool to punch a link out? I do have a pretty heavy set of bolt cutters if cutting it is Ok. Is there any reason this is a bad idea? Obviously if I was replacing sprockets the chain will just lift off. Any help really appreciated
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