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mightytunacan

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About mightytunacan

  • Birthday September 23

Previous Fields

  • Current Bike(s)
    1996 Yamaha virago, 1979 Yamaha IT 250, 1991 Honda CR 250

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
  • Interests
    Dirtbikes, enduros...
    riding, crashing, fixing, racing, buying, selling, trading etc

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  1. KevtheRev you know what? That's exactly the problem, back when the float was stuck, I had left the petcock on the "off" position, came back the next evening and there was a puddle of fuel on the floor of my garage. When I pulled the carb to inspect the float, I noticed that the fuel line was leaking at a rate of about a drop every 5 seconds. So, until I can put a new petcock in, I use a rad hose clamp to seal off the fuel line. That makes total sense now. BlackHat Once I have the bike running properly, rest assured I'm going to giv'er a good run no doubt. Alcon I have run a leakdown test on the cylinder with the exhaust port and intake covered in an effort to find a catastrophic air leak, but the cylinder held at 10psi. That leads me back to the carburetor. I'm looking at replacing the jets, valves and main nozzle in an effort to sort this fault. Thank you for your input, and I welcome anything else y'all have to offer. Thanks again
  2. Thank Finnerz for the suggestion... I have fashioned a compression tester hose with a gauge and female air receiver to see if I have any evident leaks. Will keep you posted on progress. Blackhat I know that when i bought the bike last month, the crankcase was full of fuel. I just flipped the bike upside down with the jug off and drained it. Have you got any suggestions on what could cause that? Bad rings? Or something more? I have new rings to install tomorrow. Think that could be the issue? Thank you both for you reply, this is indeed a puzzling fault for me.
  3. www.yamaha-enduros.com has scanned digital copies of 1977-1980's bike manuals. Check it out. Most definitely worth it.
  4. Hello Ed I'm not trying to get booted or get in $#!T for promoting another forums site, but here goes... I know of a vintage enduro forum group called www.yamaha-enduros.com and if you join the site (free) you get access to a whole bunch of online manuals. I'm doing a restore to a 1979 IT 250 and was able to find digital copies of the service manual, as well as complete parts catalouges complete with Yamaha OEM part numbers that you can take to any parts shop and order. Best of luck
  5. Hey y'all I bought an old 79 Yamaha IT 250. It was in running condition (albeit poor) out the back of the tail pipe oil would drip out and the acceleration was gutless. The previous owner suggested maybe it was from an incorrect oil/fuel ratio. No big deal. I got it home and started to go to work on the carb, thinking that it was just an overly rich fuel mixture I looked at the needle jet position... it was adjusted to the next lean setting. So I moved the adjustment to the leanest position and fired it up. the problem persisted, oil coming out of the tailpipe and no balls. When I tried to tune the carb's throttle adjustment, the engine run away from me. I knew that the bike had sat for a year with old fuel in it, so I dismantled the carb and cleaned it up. I returned the fuel mixture to the standard setting, and reassembled the carb after cleaning. I read in the manual that the air screw should been turned out 1 1/2 turns from factory. So, I adjusted the screw to 1 1/2 put new fuel in it with a 32:1 oil fuel ratio and started the bike. The darnedest thing happened.... after the engine idled for about 20 seconds, the RPM's kicked up on it's own and steadily climbed until I killed the engine with the kill switch. I adjusted the air screw back to the original 2 1/4 turns and restarted the bike. The same thing happened. I checked the throttle cable and found that the throttle cable was adjusted all the way out meaning that even with the throttle grip at the resting position there was enough tension on the butterfly valve to be giving the engine fuel. After I adjusted the throttle cable back to make sure there was no tension on the butterfly I started it again. BINGO! The engine idled beautifully... but then it would sputter out and stall. I looked in the tank and realized that the fuel was sitting below the fuel cock. I switched the selector over to reserve and restarted the bike... fuel/oil LITERALLY sprayed out of the tailpipe probably about 2 feet behind the bike, and the engine ran away again. That was the point that I left it at. If have any suggestions on what to change or what component(s) could be failing that would cause a runaway engine, and the throttle having no balls, I would greatly appreciate any help. Points that I have looked at: air screw is adjusted to 1 1/2 turns as per the manualthrottle cable is adjusted to allow about 4mm of throttle turn before actuating the butterfly oil/fuel ratio is 32:1 as per the manualadjusting the throttle screw had no effect on the idle speed, and at numerous positions the engine would still run awayneedle jet setting is at standard positionreeds are in good shape and provide a good seal when in the resting positionspark plugs are wet with fuel after every time the engine runs awaycarb body, valves, jets were cleaned with a varsol solutionair passages were cleaned with compressed brake clean
  6. Hey there just saying hi, and introducing myself. Been riding for 29 years both on the street and on the trails. I've just gotten myself into rebuilding old dirt bikes over the last few years as well as maintaining the rides that I decide to keep.
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