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Variomatic

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Posts posted by Variomatic

  1. Have you checked that the battery is accepting a charge? Make sure it's actually not putting out voltage. It could also be that the stator has given out, also check for bad grounds, lose wires, all the usual stuff 

    • Like 1
  2. Lower displacement Yamahas are kinda known for having this issue, sometimes if you leave them in the sun for a long time on a hot day the fuel pump starts acting up, opinions vary on the solution online, but when this happened to mine last year I replaced the pump and it worked fine. You should be able to find a replacement pump on ebay relatively cheaply, and they're pretty simple to change yourself.

    • Thanks 1
  3. Tried replacing the plug, didn't think it might just be a plug cap. I'll give that a go and see if it helps, it seems in good condition but a brand new NGK part is only a few pounds so won't harm anything to give that a go before forking out for a new OEM coil. 

  4. On 1/15/2018 at 4:10 PM, drewpy said:

    tried Z power in Atherton?

    same as z900 too, KZ is American import

    Yep, he's got an imported bike from California(As far as he can remember, the plate it had with it has long since gone missing). 

    As for the repair idea we took it to a local bike shop and they gave repairing it a go, took a while but it's totally oil tight now. But holy Jesus Christ griding it into a part that looked reasonably nice was a pain in the ass, in fact this entire fiasco has been a pain in the ass. Thankfully it's over now

  5. Long story short my uncle is retarded and forgot how to tighten a sump plug, so now I've got to find a sump for a KZ900, problem is anything Z related is like fucking gold dust. Anyone know of a UK KZ specialist that might have one for a reasonable price? 

    We where planning on just having a new thread tapped into it, but it seems the sump is cracked, or at least it apears that way, could be a casting inperfection but he doesn't wanna risk it.

  6. "cheap". Nope. Like jimmy said, you're decades years late. 

    Classic Bike Imports is a good website to gander around, every now and again they have something interesting come in. Other than that the only way you're gonna get a cheap XT or RD is with a load of good luck honestly. You're gonna have to move soon, as soon as the sun comes out again bike prices are gonna rocket. 

  7. My bike was being suspiciously reliable lately, it must want something from me, a wash maybe. Anyway, this week after not getting what it wanted it threw all it's toys out of the pram and started stalling, usually just as you go to open the throttle. Not only this but it's down on power (when you've only got 9hp you notice a missing 1/2hp), and under heavy load at higher RPM you can hear the engine breaking up a little, definately not a fuel problem, so I'm guessing the coil is on it's way out. I would test it but my multimeter also threw a tantrum and a new coil is cheaper than a new meter.

    What do you guys think? 

  8. Let's be honest, it's a cool idea but it's basically a fast Piaggio mp3. (Just having a laugh :lol:)

    piaggio3wheel3.jpg

    Dual front wheels, 3 cylinder 900cc engine, 115hp, adjustable front and rear suspension (from what I can tell from the pictures on the Yamaha website) looks like a bucket of fun. And like Cynic said, it might be a pain for filtering, but I know loads of people who filter on a GS1200 (which I think we can all agree is not a slender machine)

    • Like 1
  9. It's kind of a shame, but at the same time the GSXR750 is as common as muck, and in time their will be ones better than factory, just like any other bike once collectors start restoring them, IMO it's better that the bike be used than sit in a garage forever. Nice that it had all the service history, I've got every single receipt for anything my bike has ever had, even down to bulbs and copper washers, it may be an all year round hack but at least it's got full service history. 

  10. I was wondering if this was an early April fools but it seems not, at first I thought "Ohh god no", but actually I suppose it's a good idea. A hell of a lot more fun than a normal trike for those who need them, or returning riders, older gents ect. Who knows, maybe they've created a new market like Suzuki did with the Bandit? 

  11. Only possible solution I can think of is either a kinked line when you bolt everything down, or maybe a metric fuck load of air in the line, all I can think is bleed it again paying particular attention to making sure their is always enough fluid in the reservoir. Sometimes breaks can be a complete bastard, but I don't see any reason they shouldn't have pressure when lose as opposed to bolted down. 

  12. Have you checked that you haven't kinked the line? Perhaps when you let it sit loosely it's not kinked, but once you bolt it down it flexes the line and crimps it closed, worth checking that. Something is clearly shifting when you bolt it down, and whatever it is it's got to be quite severe to stop hydraulics from moving. Stupid question but have you checked you actually assembled everything correctly? It's easy to miss a fuckup when you throw everything back together quickly, god knows I've done that before.

  13. Compression on the cylinders (left to right) is 105-130-135 (and yes the valves are sealing and the clearances are right) so the engine was basically fucked anyway but it'd be nice to not have to do that just yet. I tried flushing it with diesel like slice suggested, managed to get a metric fuck load of swarf out but I think it wasn't enough because since it happened the engine has been sounding really sketchy, this morning it sounded ok, but after a short spin it doesn't sound happy, and for some reason the clutch has started slipping (although we think this is coincidental) 

    We're thinking about ripping it apart and trying to make one good engine from it and a spare engine we found on fleabay fuck a fucked gearbox, not sure though. Might be up for sale soon if anyone wants a really fucked XS750? :lol:

  14. My neighbor has an XS750, the tacho stopped working two days ago and he asked me to have a look, when I got there this morning I took the cable off and found out it was totally seized (Like not from rust, from fraying and tangling itself up it seems), put on the cable he bought as a replacement and it still didn't work, on closer inspection we found the drive gear wasn't turning. I took the valve cover off and to our horror we found out that the drive gear has totally eaten itself, the bevel drive on the camshaft is basically gone. 

    Now the real problem. All the shavings seems to have been swept into the depths of the engine. Do you think it's game over? I'm guessing a couple of extremely frequent oil/filter changes might save it but I'm not really sure. What do you guys think?  

  15. 16 hours ago, Cynic said:

    Did you replace it with a sealed bearing?

    Yep, it's been replaced with a rubber sealed bearing. I've also had to replace the entire sprocket carrier, the old bearing literally fell out just by me pulling it, somehow the bearing race had ended up all wallered out and it was too big to press the new bearing in, thankfully I found a new carrier the same day so no big issue. Still though, never seen that happen before. Haven't gone for a test ride yet but it should be all sorted.

  16. 5 hours ago, blackhat250 said:

    I think hes on about the rear wheel  [ sprocket carrier] bearing boys,,:rolleyes:

     

    Hi pat,,, good to hear from you :welcome:

    Yep, rear sprocket carrier, not gearbox. So as I pull away the rear sprocket ends up cocked to the right and the chain hangs up on it, causing that weird clunk I mistook for the gearbox. Not surprised that the bearing died, considering I regularly ford small streams and take "Unsuitable for motor vehicle" signs as a challenge. 

  17. 1 hour ago, Tommy xs said:

    Cushdrive rubbers ?

    The rubbers are good, it's not forward/backward rotary play, it's side to side play because the bearing has play in it, simple fix,

    New carrier, bearing and seal was only £26. (had to replace the carrier as well because the bearing wasn't a press fit anymore and basically fell out) 

  18. I'm a complete idiot. I've found the problem. The sprocket carrier bearing is completely fucked, I the sprocket has about 1/4 inch play left and right. I noticed a very slight clunk when coasting down a hill with the clutch out, meaning it couldn't be a clutch issue and must have been drive train. I have a feeling that the seal has failed and the bearings ended up full of water. 

  19. 22 hours ago, finnerz89 said:

    It's not been thread locked has it? Try some heat?

    Nope, it's just a common problem on YBRs, happens often on them (wish I'd known that a few years ago so I could have covered it in anti seize whilst I had the chance)

  20. 17 hours ago, slice said:

    Only real way to tell is to have it apart and have a look see, measure the plates and see if they are in tolerance and check the steel plates for warping. My best guess anyway.

    Read this and it seems to match your problem a little https://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php?topic=9752.0 I know it's on a BSA but worth as look I should think.

    Problem is the foot peg hanger is totally seized (Yamaha was too cheap to use a stainless fastener) so I'll have to have that drilled out, probably gonna be £60 to have that drilled out since it's a 7 inch steel bolt, can't ignore it though. 

    18 hours ago, finnerz89 said:

    Notched or damaged clutch basket? How many miles on it?

    Thats what I was thinking, the fact it seems to give all at once does indicate this, the bike has 31k so I can see this kind of wear happening in that time given how much you need to work the gearbox on a 125.  I hope it's that simple, then again as I said above it's gonna cost be to have that damn bolt drilled. Clutch plates could do with being replaced anyway so may as well not put off the inevitable I suppose 

  21. Another week another problem on the YBR front. When pulling away it's almost impossible to do it smoothly, you can get the cluch so far out before a loud clunk radiates through the entire bike and the clutch engages all at once. Weirdly though, it only happens once it's warm, and gets worse the hotter the engine is. 

    Been wracking my brains and I can't pinpoint it, the chain is adjusted and lubed perfectly, the clutch cable and lever where both replaced 2 months ago. Can't figure it out, worn out clutch plates, broken gear tooth, bent clutch rod, worn clutch/drive-train? Anyone got any ideas? Don't know what's caused it, I've been changing the oil every 1000 miles religiously yet something seems to have let go

  22. Seems either you goofed up when rebuilding it, or your comp tester isn't working. Bad crank seals would make it run poorly but wouldn't lower compression. 

    Also try fully opening the throttle before testing compression, closed throttle can drastically lower readings sometimes. 

    • Thanks 1
  23. My first year was £660, I used Right Choice Insurance Brokers (Utter cunts but it was cheap so fuck it), second year was £550, third year was £450. Insurance for young people is a fucking joke these days.

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