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Variomatic

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Everything posted by Variomatic

  1. I use DID chains on my bike, and when I'm asked to fit them for others. Decent brand and the prices are usually relatively good. Like nayruf said, clean around the front sprocket, a few weeks ago I had to dig my way through 25k of grease, gunk and dirt, you would not believe how long it took. So clean of what's there and check for oil leaks and such in that area.
  2. If it's the older carbed version you probably just need to clean the carb, but if it's thje fuel injected model the problem may be slightly more complex.
  3. If it where me I'd take it down and leave it in the street.
  4. Go to google and try to find the dimensions of the shocks, that's the easiest way of finding out if they'll fit, or perhaps look for other people who've done the same thing.
  5. Check the gearing, I thought an Enduro would have lower than 16-47. Also try checking for air leaks on carb boots and the air box, that can be done by spraying starter fluid (VERY CAREFULLY) around these areas whilst the bike is running, you'll know it's leaking if the engine speed changes. Also check valve lash, they may be too tight causeing the valves not to close properly. But I kinda doubt it's an air leaks since you said it idles well and starts easy. Have you checked the spark timing? Since it's from 81 it'll have CDI, I've had friends who've had issues with bad units, or even just having the bullet connectiors plugged in wrong. Apart from that I'm not sure.
  6. I think slice was dead on, the cost for the service seems to be about right from a dealer, but you would save a significant sum if you felt comfortable doing the majority yourself, probably a good skill to learn if you haven't already, a Haynes manual is a good start Also like slice said, tyres are a hard one, you can't really get great grip and long life, they seem to be mutually exclusive in my experiance. Personally I'd go for long life tyres when commuting but everyone likes something different so you'll have to decide for yourself. Most popular tyres come in common sizes so you'll probably find something that fits the rims and suits what you want well. Tyres are one of those things where you have to just swallow your pride and spend the cash sometimes. It's not like long life tyres are made of wood, but they definately won't stick as well as short life, sticky tyres will.
  7. Didn't think it'd matter much, if I really worry about it between not and it's next outing I'll do a redneck home test with a fixed bolt and some weights, the style I have is easy to adjust with very basic hand tools anyway, thanks for the help mate
  8. So a few months ago I got myself my first "click type" torque wrench, loved the thing. And me being the stupid prat I am I got it out just now to torque up my brake caliper bolts and managed to wind the fucking thing past the 0 mark. Only by a little bit, but I still want to know if I should really worry about the accuracy of the wrench much, I wouldn't think it matters a whole lot, it's practically a brand new wrench, only used a hanfull of times. Any thoughts?
  9. This is one of the main reasons that I detest my morning commute. when I got hit the woman tried to walk all over me after she saw the L plate, getting rid if the fuckign things asap.
  10. Yep, the valve clerances are always within spec, they're adjusted every 2k or so, but for a while the exhaust valve did have a little preload on it meaning it didn't close (as in 10-15 miles of riding before it was fixed) Well without taking the valves out of the head I can't tell for sure, but from a close visual inspection they seem to be opening and closing correctly, and every other comonent in the top end seems good so I can only presume the guides are ok. Like I said I poured solvent into the head and it didn't leak past the valves so I presume they're sealing, but I would have thought that the mating surfaces would have been clean. I might have to try and get my hands on a valve spring compressor and take a closer look, check runout/clerances ect ect as well as lap them in.
  11. I've taught myself a lesson with this one, do it wrong, do it twice, along with a load of other shit.
  12. eBay is your friend. I suppose you could measure the shock to get the dimentions and then just buy one of the same size, but if you're looking for a second hand one from another bike then eBay if your best bet. Unless you want to buy a legit one from Yamaha, in that case just go to a Yam dealer and consult them. Depending on the price it might be easier to have your shock rebuilt. Have a look at this listing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XJ600-DIVERSION-JYARJ1-2009-2010-Hagon-Adjustable-Mono-Shock-/301881466862?hash=item4649899fee:g:yAEAAOSwKtVWzxTk (May not be the exact shock, but it will be very similar) Those shocks are quite expensive, you may be able to take the one you have to a mechanics and have it repaired for less.
  13. Poured electrical contcate cleanmer into the head (a generic solvent) and it didn't leak past the valves, unless the cam was bumped up aganst it. I can clearly see the hone marks, but those are only 5K only, I had a compression issuie a while back and decided to hone the cylinder and get a new piston and rings (standard size), solved the issue for about 1.5-2k then it came back. Obviously if the valves don't leak it MUST be the cylinder, but I'm kind of amazed that the piston, rings and cylinder can all look poractically new and still be so worn. It's my own fauilt for not getting an oversize piston in the first place, I'll just get it bored out tomorrow and fit a .50 oversize piston and hope it fixes the issue. Not the valves, must be the cylinder, I suppose it can look new after the spruce up but still be out of spec. All I really did was put lipstick on a pig in hinde sight.
  14. Right, my engine has had low compression (AGAIN). Took it apart expecting to see another scored cylinder, but the cylinder is perfectly fine. I'm very confused at this point. So I decided to have a close look at the valves, visually they seem to be ok, but I've noticed on the valve seat where it meets the valve is covered in soot and general muck, shouldn't the mating surface be clean? I'm utterly stumped, the bore looks good, the valves look good, no signs of compression leaking past the head gasket. I'm utterly lost.
  15. Start from the top of the trouble shooting list: Compression Spark Fuel You clearly have spark and compression since it runs. So it's probably a fuel issue, try fresh fuel lines like Cynic said. Also we haven't been given a scenario. How long has it sat? Why did it stop running? What made you want to clean the carb?
  16. I've since stopped caring about these, even if there is something wrong I won't know till my next oil change so I'm not gonna worry myself, if it's worse next time then I'll start taking things apart and finding the problem. I'm gonna guess it's from the piston, the engine doesn't have amazing compression due to odd cylinder wear so it's probably from that, or the gearbox maybe since that's getting clunky with age. Ohh well, engines will do as engines do, and making metal shavings is one of those things.
  17. I changed my oil today (as I do every 2500 miles) and to my horror I noticed some shiny little specs, just 3 or 4 little tiny specs of metal, but this has never happened before, even after the time it overheated and needed a top end rebuild. What the hell do I do now? Everything SEEMS to be ok, the gears all select as they should, starts every time, no knocking, everything is as it's always been.
  18. I just love how much more fun I have in day to day riding around. If me and my friends go somewhere and I ride, I can be leaning my pile of rust as far as I dare with the needle touching the red, and the guys who went in the car, moving at the same speed, are bored. Sometimes it pays to have a slow pile of junk bike.
  19. Perhaps could be some confusion due to it being a northern Ireland bike? You could try seeing if they can find anything from the VIN number?
  20. I have the same bike (if you need YBR Custom specific advice just ask). My gear consists of steel toe cap boots, a 26 year old leather jacket that I "aquired" from a friends friend. a KBC helmet and some RST gloves. Your bike has 10hp, as a result the chances are you're not going to be thrown down the road at 100mph, you don't need top of the rage gear. As far as jackets go, I'd recomend this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spada-Air-Pro-Textile-Mesh-Motorcycle-Jacket-Black-/351718058726?var=&hash=item51e407aae6:m:mQaCTDnNhLkNYnO4tbsFXVA It's a Spada Air pro, I have this exact jacket as well as my Dolomite Sportex, it's a warm, comfortable jacket, very strong, body armour. All round a good place to start, I wouldn't spend more than £70 on a jacket when on a little bike. As for Gloves, I use a set of RSTs' that I got on offer at a closing down sale, something similar to this will do just fine: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RST-MOTORCYCLE-MOTORBIKE-SHADOW-2-WATERPROOF-ARMOUR-TOURING-GLOVES-BLACK-NEW-/272134876655?var=&hash=item3f5c80adef:m:mtNAw9T5SmZPdV5iDMUT_6A Just buy the best you can afford, but that said, don't go insane.
  21. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yamaha-YBR125-Service-Haynes-Manuals/dp/0857336215/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469897585&sr=8-1&keywords=YBR+haynes+manual Step one: Buy that manual Step two: Read the relevant section of the manual again and again Both tightening your head stock and replacing the bearings are both easy jobs once you have the manual, that book will show you how to do exactly what you need with step by step instructions, and pictures.
  22. I think I'm having issues with my Regulator/Rectifier, my bike keeps blowing up headlight bulbs, I took my Regulator/Rectifier out and the pins where covered in green corrosion, after sanding that off and cleaning them I don't wanna put it back in yet before I make sure it's functional. Does anyone know how I should test it? My user manual just says to check the batery voltage whilst it charged from the running engine.
  23. Fuck sake, I messaged that exact seller asking if he had a tail light and he said no. Lasy bastard couldn't even be bothered to look though the parts pile. Thanks mate, big help
  24. Because if I dare go near my insurance company they will fuck me up, put simply. They will price it up with OEM parts and write my bike off, the money I'll get won't be even close to enough, and my insurance will shoot up regardless of it being her fault. Insurance companies are legally required and are uncontrolled, I fucking despise them with every ounce of my being. And she doesn't seem to understand the fact that if I try and claim I simply won't have a bike anymore. Fuck this bitch. And no I'm not paid, to be honest if I don't have money to fix this I don't have money to pay for a forum I rarely use.
  25. On the 3rd some dopey sod managed to rear end me at a roundabout and royally fucked up the rear of my bike, but my main issue here is that to repair it I need a new tail lamp (along with other parts) and since the YBR custom is a rather hard bike to find parts for I can't find a rear tail lamp, or even a rear tail lamp cover. Does anybody have one going? (would have put this in the wanted section, but I was re-directed to a dead page)
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