Variomatic

You mean bar end mirrors? Use ebay, just search for a set, the description will give the diameter for the inside of the bars, measure the inside of your bars and find a set that will fit Or short of that, pick any set, they're almost universal in fitment. I use these ones: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTORBIKE-BAR-END-REARVIEW-MIRRORS-7-8-PAIR-MOTORCYCLE-BIKE-BLACK-UK-/161980624948?hash=item25b6cc3034:g:HzQAAOSwLpdW9en~

As far as I know all you have to do is put some resistors in line, that should have the same effect as using a bulb, however as far as knowing how strong a resistor you should use I'm not sure I'm afraid

Goldwing?

It would make such a tiny difference that you'd effectively be wasting your money, plus de-restricting it would likely break the power restriction laws (or speed laws if it's a 50), and believe me, if they find out you'll get properly shafted. It's better if you just accept that a moped isn't gonna be quick and just enjoy the ride

Love the Scott in the first picture, I imagine that would have been astonishingly fast back in the 20's. But jeez, that C90 is an example of automotive abuse

If you're changing an exhaust you will need to make some changes to the intake and carb, my suggestion is that you leave it stock. However if you do want to change it, you'd probably be best getting a "high flow" air filter, and going up a jet size or two. Once you have more flow out of an engine you need more air flow into an engine otherwise you'll waste your time, but seriously mate, it's a moped, just leave it stock and save your money for a full licence, a big bike, or some beer money

Slice, obviously it's all the "stage 6" bolt on bits

The best thing you can do is remove all pointless the bolt on go fast parts, It sounds like a fueling issue, put all the crab settings back to stock, you shouldn't have been messing with them if you don't understand them, put the jetting back to stock and put on the correct air filter, along with this you should double check for air leaks, check the spark is decent/plug is clean etc etc

Seems like the perfect first bike, cheap, 2 stroke, quick and doesn't care if it gets dropped

Honestly I'd just pick up a Reiju 50 to do the job, after all you'll probably spend less than if you wanted a real DT, plus like you said you have the 125 top end to go on the DT once she turns 17. All you'd really do is spend a lot on a Yam DT50, scrap it about for a year and a bit then sell it, with the Reiju you can abuse it for a year and sell it to the next guy, just my thinking I asked around between my friends and no one had one unfortunately, they don't even seem to show up on evilBay very often, oddly they seem to be rare, probably since so many people abused them back in the day

I've had friends with XT250s that would backfire almost every kick, it was an issue with the CDI, check that all the connectors are connected to the correct colors/connected properly, and give them all a good clean. That might help the issue

I can see an enduro bike in my future at some point, one from this era, just wish I could afford that one

Not legal, only clear or yellow headlight covers are legal in the UK (rightfully so). The only way you could get your bike legal with that cover is if it had a daytime MOT meaning you couldn't use it at night

Gotta say it's a very cool little project, sure it's not a Norton Dominator or a KZ1000 but you get all the fun of a project without the ridiculous cost, love it! Personally I'd keep them both, the 600 is a brilliant bike from what I've heard, and I'd keep the 350 because it's a bit of an engineering oddity and I have a feeling they're gonna be a future classic

That's the best number of bikes

Personally I'd just check it with a meter and stick it back in the bike, you shouldn't have to charge it once it's back in the bike/being used often

Boiling it in wax to clean/lube it? Too young to have ever seen anyone do this, that must have been a huge pain in the ass to do

Like slice said, oven cleaner works well for me when I give my bike it's bi-yearly wash

Ohh definitely, how interested they are, along with your relationship with the dealership/examiner does make a huge difference. It was probably quite obvious they were gone last time from the condition of the forks, he spent a lot of time examining them, looked at me, back at the forks and then moved along with his inspection. Me and other family members know him quite well, he's a cool guy, he'll let a small thing slide but he wont MOT something that's obviously dangerous, but this time it's just a little too far for him to turn a blind eye, ohh well, can't ask for more than that

Agreed, a Haynes manual gives you all the info you need, last time the top end had to come off my engine (the same engine) I managed all of it with a 1/4 socket set and a sketchy cheap torque wrench. It's really not as hard as it sounds, but, since it doesn't turn over even after it's cooled off it sounds like the engines fucked to be honest. You can pick up another YBR engine for £250 on ebay, that might be the best option

Now I didn't know that! I was gonna buy a set of them anyway along with the new forks, nice to know they're useful in two ways

I think the most retarded thing I ever managed to do to my bike was, whilst trying to remove a sized engine mount bolt, give up and put the nut back on the bolt (the nut came off but the bolt was stuck in), forget I put the nut on, put another nut on, crank it down and strip the nut on the bolt that was seized, which already had a nut on it anyway. Meaning I now can't even get the first good nut off the now half stripped bolt. But the two nuts and the sized bolts are still in the bike, I can't remove them so looks like they're staying until the bottom end goes and I'm forced to drill it. Properly stupid of me, but ohh well, I learnt my lesson.

The XT350 had that weird dual carb didn't it? It was that a different model? Brilliant engineering but utterly pointless

I've seen that round before, I've always been tempted to try it but I never trusted the price, then again, with that price I could change it twice as often and not spend anymore XD I might give it a go one day, after all I've heard good reviews

Well if the starter wont turn and the kick start is stuck at the top then the engine is seized, oil in the engine or not it can happen. There are two types of sized engine, a "soft" size and a "hard" seize. A soft seize is caused by overheating, the engine can usually turn over again after it cools down and maybe even run, a hard seize is a mechanical failure meaning something inside is stuck, bent, twisted or broken. Does the engine turn over now, or is it still stuck? The issue with spark might have been caused by an overheating, engines, nor the delicate electronics inside them are designed to get that hot.