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About XR650-R

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    DT175MX ~ XR650R ~ XJR1300SP ~ ZX12-R Previous Bikes XR250R ~ DT125R ~ GPZ1100E1 ~ RD350LC ~ XL125R ~ MT5

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    Lichfield Staffordshire
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  1. Turn your bike upside down for 30 minutes air bubbles will rise to the carb and get burnt off with the petrol....if you look closely at the exhaust you might just see black bubbles coming out ?....just don't pop 1 as they will stink.
  2. Shame I used to have a tester which could do 250v,500v & 1000v ....I will unwrap the coil tomorrow and have a look inside got nothing to lose and might even try a rewind. Thanks for all the advice guys as mentioned really want to get the bike sorted as a dead bike is no good to anyone...does my head in having a bike it bits...not short of something to ride mind you...
  3. I have already asked about the resistance values and will let you know their reply....going back to my bike and it's current 206ohms would you suggest all my problems are related to the poor values ?, even when the bike ran it was running poorly like something was breaking down electrically ?...source coil in particular as everything else checks out OK not done anything with the CDI unit.
  4. OK what would the effect of a low resistance coil be ?, bad/no spark as that's my symptoms really hoping to nail this problem once and for all, Yamaha should reply tomorrow if their prices are not to sky high I will get a new 1 from there. I read your post on the electrex coli's and having to modify the slot so they fit ?....I don't mind going down that route if I have to there are some cheap coils on ebay which say they fit the DT's... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321674846549?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Anyone tried 1 of these ?
  5. OK removed the fly wheel and the source coil... As you can see the reading is 206 measured directly at the coil... Just looking for a replacement, I have see the pattern ones on ebay and have asked my local Yamaha dealer to quote....
  6. Small update spent a couple of hours this morning testing wires etc, nothing broken on the actual wiring but the source charge coil is only showing 201ohms rather than book 300ohms ?....the pulse pickup coil is OK at 9.8ohms book is 10.0ohms +/1 10% I have tested the ignition coil with a power supply and I get a nice spark when dropping 7 volts on to the coil...so that seems fine along with the plug.... So it's either the low source charge coil or the CDI is borked ?.....any thought anyone ? Hmm my log book says its a 2K4 frame and according to the manual it should have a Source high speed value of 13.6ohms across the red & black wires....my bike doesn't have a red wire from the generator ?.....which would match up with the "All other models" part of the manual ?....which state Not Applicable ? My generator has the following wires which all match up to my loom and plugs etc... Green/White Yellow Brown White/Red Black Confused now
  7. Yes plug was new but tried another just in case will test coil this morning without the cap....least the bike not starting now should help find the fault and with luck the poor running.....
  8. Bike passed her MOT today and she is all set ready to go but now she won't start from the kick starter and is reluctant to bump start, when she does run she is poorly at mid range but ticks over fine....?. Removed the coil tonight and primary is spot on 1.0 ohm but secondary is 12k ohm rather than 5.9k ohms as per book ? I did have the plug cap in place whilst testing....is that wrong... Anyway messing tonight I do seem to lose the spark from time to time which might explain the poor running and the more lately non starting problems, I have un-tapped the wires below the coil as when I was trying to bump her she did fire slightly when messing about in this area; however I have found no external wires damaged within the loom. Are the coils know to fail ?, might be the original item which is 35 years old:) Bit of a bummer as she is tax'd, MOT'd and insured now just won't run
  9. Sorry for bad picture but here is the bash plate and it's unique mounts ....yes I know it should be plated not painted but only cost a fiver and looks OK to me.
  10. So to remove the seat you have to take the side panels off then un-do the seat strap bolts then the seat bolts .....sounds like work lol.... Any thoughts on my other issue the bash plate rubbers ?.....anyone got any info on them....I could do with new rubbers and new top hat spacers but again not any info out there showing the little buggers lol.
  11. Good call on the seat strap.....will have a look over weekend and report back....just find it strange that no matter how hard I look online at drawings and parts lists I cannot find any 2 hole mufflers or bash plate with rubber gromments .....I am normally good at tracking part numbers down etc....get worried when google shows up nothing lol
  12. I take it no one else has a muffler with 2 fixing bolts or a sump guard with grommets ?......OK time to ring Yamaha on Monday and speak to them hopefully they can help me
  13. Hi guys, sorry to keep asking questions but here goes... Removed my bashplate this morning and she is attached with top hat spacers and these go through rubber bushes....however I cannot seem to find any parts drawings with these bushes shown ?...I have gone through all years of the 175's and they all show just bolts going through with washers...no top hats and no rubbers .....any idea's of numbers or links to diagrams ? Second question what does this tapped hole do ? it's the 1 on the left looks like m8 it don't seem to go anywhere lol ? whilst your thinking, my exhaust tail section has 2 mounting bolts and cannot seem to find a drawing which shows this either ....and non seem to show square section swinging arm ?
  14. Makes sense, in the past I have always just adjusted the screw inwards/outwards without doing the throttle lift bit. Don't remember seeing any damage to the vlave when the carb was in pieces but will check....
  15. Hi guys, As posted before bike starts and ticks over pretty good now, but noticed the tickover screw even when fully in won't increase RPM....if I back it out it will decrease ?.....not a big problem but would have thought it would increase and decrease either side of typical tickover as required ?.... Anyone have any thoughts on why it should be like this ? From what I can remember the carb slide did lift when winding in the screw when it was on the bench. Maybe it still down to the bike needing a good run and clear out ?....sadly with all the white stuff and cold weather that won't happen till Spring lol.... Happy New Year
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