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DaftAlly

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About DaftAlly

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  • Current Bike(s)
    GSX750F VF750 Z550
  1. Thanks. What I'll do is go through Tapatalk. I may have to take new photos on my phone in a few days but I'll see how it goes.
  2. Great, thanks. Does the Tapatalk circumvent the photobucket account part?
  3. Make sure the pads are free in the caliper. Apply a little copper grease, or better still, ceramic grease to the pad backplate sides and where the caliper body or where the piston contacts. Keep well away from the friction material obviously.
  4. Easy answer. ACF50. Just a brief spray is enough to stop corrosion and repel moisture every few months.
  5. Having just fired up a couple of bikes recently which had been stored for some years, I can most definitely say drain or run the carbs dry. The GS550 was perfect but unfortunately, the GSX750F had sat for some months before running them dry. The GS was perfect but the GSX had a blocked idle jet.
  6. Hi, I'm trying to post images in the garage section of the forum to help others and demonstrate wiring repairs and modifications. However, I seems unable to do this from my camera as I find this forum not so easy to use as others which I have posted stuff on before. Can anyone help and give clear step by step instructions, please?
  7. It's done and I have a few pictures to help others in future. I appear unable to upload them. Can anyone give me info on how to upload the images from my camera please?
  8. As all's gone quiet on this one and I'm now at the point I have to try to get engine running (after the hanger bracket is made, the collector is welded and the Micron Race can goes on), yes, I'm ready to try to start the engine. I figured that because it is a 3 wire system which contains 2 pick up coils, each pickup has 2 wires. That is, one positive each and a common negative between them. I guess it must be inductive pickup and not a 3 wire (per pickup) hall effect or similar. As such, there is no 5 volt reference wire to confuse things and increase the chances of damaging the CDI. Because of this, I have decided to just give it my best (educated) guess as to which wire goes where on the CDI left multiplug. I have got the coils switching so all seems to be ok. However, once I have the other jobs done, I'll post back so anyone else looking for the same has an answer. Other than that I'm quite chuffed all the work has produced just over 14 volts onto the headlamp bulb terminals (not the loom terminals) when the headlamp is on (circuit under load) and engine running. Minimal voltage drop throughout this wiring loom now. Finally, I have a spare multiplug casing to fit the CDI into which I'll fit new terminals to keep it factory.
  9. Thanks noise. I appreciate the trouble you went to. Unfortunately I require pin data for the smaller plug on the left. It is a four terminal multiplug but only utilizes 3 of them as the bottom right is blank.
  10. Thanks, noise. That would be appreciated. Alternatively you could just look at the back of the multi plug (which would be the same as looking at the CDI terminals) and say something like: Top left- black Bottom left- grey Top right- orange Bottom right- blank Obviously I refer to the 4 pin multi plug which is on the left of the CDI. That largely covers it. I had read the post about no copyright material. Ok, I appreciate nobody wants to get banned from here but I really was beginning to think that this whole copyright thing was actually stopping people from helping each other and completely defeating the purpose of the forum. Not quite thankfully. Anyway copyright or not (just on of the 26000 statutes in this country to cause someone to be fined or jailed) you can simply rebut any challenge and demand proof of (legally defined) contract. The Karl Lentz method so far appears the best way to avoid road traffic act entanglements. Anyway, all this work is being done to chase the last half volt dropped somewhere between battery and the headlamp multi plug. I've already found nearly two volts on this which were previously lost in oxidised terminals, dirty switchgear and blackened wire cores. As this £400 stands it's owner quite a lot of money- probably about £1000 over the last 3 years I really can't see it being sold anytime in the foreseeable future. So it's looks like it's a keeper then which is why I figured I may as well get it right as I don't want to repeat the exercise in the next few years.
  11. All versions 83-94 have same wiring at pickup. Multi plug is obviously unavailable from Yamaha so plan A is to perhaps modify a generic one to fit. Plan B would be simple spade terminals and them attach a wiring diagram sticker to the CDI for future reference. Obviously I'm soldering new bits of loom as necessary and using shrink wrap and new multi plugs and retained terminals to try to maintain originality as far as possible. The only mods are simplifying the loom for the streetfighter style and using a separate relay to feed the headlamp to take 2 original fuses, the ignition switch and right hand light switch out of the equation to minimise voltage drop to the headlamp circuit and to minimise current loading on the switchgear. Hardly rocket science. I just need to know which wires go where as I don't have that information.
  12. Funny, I found exactly all that when I did a head job on a mate's XJ900 over 3 years ago. I was fortunate with the exhaust studs though but had to butcher one of the collars though. Since then new collars were made which meant a new collector had to be made. I found the worst part getting the carbs off as there's hardly any room in the frame. Anyway, your mate's bike was a sorry state. Looks like some hard work. Keep going as I bet it'll be nice when finished though. BTW, any chance of help with my post in workshop area about the XJ900 ignition wiring please?
  13. You didn't say how old the engine is but if it's less than 20-30 years old It probably has transistorized ignition which means the box of tricks holds the ignition map. Generally, nobody went to the trouble of creating a new map, burning it onto the chip and the soldering the new chip into the circuit board. Only professional tuners may go to these lengths and even then that would be valid only if cams and possibly pistons were changed. Generally speaking an ignition advancer rotor and a session on a dynamometer which may involve adjustments or jet changes to the carburettors would be the equivalent of a remap. The ignition advance rotor is used to advance the static ignition timing for higher octane fuel as many engines were built to accept as low as 91 RON fuel for countries where only low octane was available or to take account of altitude variations. Machining and different camshaft lift and duration is still performed to significantly alter 4 stroke engine characteristics.
  14. Hoping someone can help me with this even though I'm now without a Yam since selling my XJ600N. I'm sorting a mate's XJ900F since he got it back months after it should have been finished by someone who let him down. I've now done most of the rewiring but I am stuck on the wiring from the ignition pick ups to the CDI (ignition control module). I have a Haynes manual to help but I cannot find the wiring configuration for the aforementioned. What I need to know is which wires go where into the CDI as the wiring has been cut and the multi plug block has been discarded. There is grey, orange and black wires from the pickup which should enter the CDI via a 4 terminal multi plug. To make matters worse, from what I remember from a few years ago, these wires change colour (or they did on his) before entering the CDI. Can anyone help with this please as I'm loathe to go by trial and error in case I damage the expensive CDI module?
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