fil77

I thought that they only started to put fuels gauges on bikes when they went to fuel injection because they don't like running dry. All carburettor fed bikes that I have owned, including my present XVS650, have never had a gauge only a reserve fuel supply.

As far as I know there is no difference between a Dragstar and a Vstar models just a name change. I beleive the year that things changed was 2004 but not certain. I don't think there was much that changed. I think it was mostly due to emmission control. Exhausts and probably AIS. The main differences are between the Classic and Custom and they are cosmetic.

Hi! Chris, Welcome, I am 6'1" and I have no problem comfortably riding my Classic. My son also has one and his sits for months and still starts easily, no charging the battery. I don't think this will be good for battery life in the long term but a can easily sit for a few weeks and will not cause an issue. I love mine and out here an XVS650 costs $12000 on the road new where as the Harley's are around $29000. An awful lot to pay for a little extra power and a name. I don't know what distances, road conditions, or traffic is like in England but I feel the XVS650 is an excellent and reliable commuter for me.

Here's another set of figures for a 2010 XVS650 Classic. Over the passed couple of years I have kept records and averaged 5 L/100K or aprox 56MPG (imperial) mainly country town riding (60KPH or 35MPH). That gives me an average 240K's before I switch to reserve (Aprox 150 miles). If I ride like a grandma then I get better ecconomy but if I try to ride like Joge Lorenzo then I expect less ecconomy.

I think the rider is as big a danger as the car driver. Slows down just after overtaking the car in the left lane to start the road rage. Wanders all over the lane and when accellerating away wanders accross the centre lane and back. The old saying of "People in glass houses", I reccon, applies here.

The problems you describe seem to appear often in forums I have read. It appears to be common with Yamaha V twins. There is a modified clutch lever for the V-Star range which some riders in the US swear by. (The Clever Lever) The accelerator touchyness has also been mentioned but I don't recall any fix for that apart from a larger diameter after market grips. I found my XVS650 a little that way on both accounts but after putting on a number of kilometers I am used to it and don't like the idea of the mods. I have been riding for years and all bikes have their own idiosyncrasies to contend with.

From what I have seen there was a change to exhausts around 2004-2006. Catalytic converters were added to the mufflers and a slight change in the header pipe length also. Don't know how valid this is or if it would cause a problem.

Check the earth connection to the tail assy.

If it was me I'd just get a new battery. It sounds like it has had it. Doing a capacity check properly is a lot of mucking around and takes time. If it is 8.6 volts with ignition on then it is flat and not capable of turning the motor over enough and the voltage would be much lower whilst the starter is activated. Not enough power left for the ignition to spark sufficiently. 11.6 volts when the motor is running is also a bit low but a dead battery can also cause that also the alternator will not put out a lot of power at idle so voltage will be down then also. It should be more like 13.5 volts with a good battery and a few revs. It should stay fairly constant above idle. If you charge that battery then test its voltage you may see it up around 13 volts with no load for a short time after but if it is dead it will not hold it and will drop with a load such as the ignition.

The battery you have will crank the bike just fine. The difference between 5 and 6 amp means nothing but if it is Amps per hour (AH) it just means the 5AH will go flat quicker. It is the voltage that determines how fast it will crank the motor and the capacity determines for how long. From what I see the LB5LB is a standard wet cell where as the YTX7L-BS is a sealed AGM type. Both will work but the wet cell needs looking after, water level topping up from time to time and prone to leaking acid. Most bikes now use saeled batteries for safety and low maintenance. The LB5LB will probably die earlier as it's Cold cranking amps (CCA) will probably also be lower causing more deteriation each time you use it to start.

Welcome from a fellow Novocastrian! Difference is my Newcastle is on a different river to yours.

Merry Xmas from the colonies.

Don't expect to see DC voltage at the headlight. It should be AC and vary considerably with revs.

Like I said I see nothing wrong with your electrics. There is no regulator so voltage will depend on revs and current drawn. If the battery is charged, very little current will be drawn and voltage will be around 7.2 to 7.5 volts. Depending on your meter and range you could read anything from 7 to 8 volts. Put the same rated globe back in and things should be fine.

Could be a restriction in the tank venting system. XVS bikes don't vent at the cap but have a tube running down the frame. If this gets bent, squashed etc it can cause similar symptoms to what you you describe. Don't know how the Virago is setup.