Calum122

Wow, I cannot believe it has been this long since I've been on this forum So the rear sprocket carrier bearing collapse on me in February 2015. I decided to strip the bike back to the bare metal and od a nut and bolt rebuild. Well nearly 18 months later...it's still not do. I shouldn't be too surprised I have had a lot on. But finally got the wheels on today so I can actually wheel it about It shouldn't be too long now, maybe another 12 months.... A lot has been done to this bike since I last posted. Too much that I can remember. The biggest things are frame wheels ands swingarm powdercoated. As well as a few bits and bobs here and there. The engine is now back to the stock engine, 4DL sold but kept the ported barrel. Wow, I cannot believe it has been this long since I've been on this forum So the rear sprocket carrier bearing collapse on me in February 2015. I decided to strip the bike back to the bare metal and od a nut and bolt rebuild. Well nearly 18 months later...it's still not do. I shouldn't be too surprised I have had a lot on. But finally got the wheels on today so I can actually wheel it about It shouldn't be too long now, maybe another 12 months.... A lot has been done to this bike since I last posted. Too much that I can remember. The biggest things are frame wheels ands swingarm powdercoated. As well as a few bits and bobs here and there. The engine is now back to the stock engine, 4DL sold but kept the ported barrel.

Welcome mate! Cracking motors they are, practically know those engines inside and out and they come in a variety of flavours. Unfortunately I'm not on this particular site very much but this is a very good site for information. If you want any help with that particular bike then I can be very helpful. Drop me a private message and I can sort you out with lots of information. ​ ​Good starter bike Much better than the 125 four stroke counter part!

Nice to see you out enjoying the bike mate! Looks good too! ​ ​Most engines are reliable if you do the maintenance. Personally I'd stick with the smoker as you expect them to be high maitenance so you're not surprised when they go. And the band is very addictive haha! But yeah I don't think you'll go far wrong whatever you choose.

Alright mate, haven't checked your thread in a while. Looks like you're making really good progress. Maybe, I don't know, but a clock is really handy. If you could find and fit discretlely a little clock then that would be a good way to fill the gap. Alternatively, weld up the brackets to get the ignition back on. I could measure it up for you. wouldn't take two seconds to have that welded on. Would be a really good step to restoring it. Also love your dedication to this mate. Really nice to see someone restoring it to it's former glory.

That's really sweet.

I'm not surprised strokes being a big cause. The amount of times I nearly died on my stroker.

I remember having a rigt nihtmare bleeding the brakes on my dt. The way I got around probably is ill advised but after spending hours and hours and getting nowhere I eventually had to add some top down presdure to the fluid to get the ball rolling. worked a charm.

Nice project to get stuck in to! I do find it irritating when bolts round off. Althouh drilling them out is a good work aroun.

I know that feeling about powder coating it. It is far too nice for the bike to spend any longer than necessary in the garage. Ive just stripped the bike back to the frame and primered it and sprayed it rattlecan style. Protect it for now. sort it out when winter comes. Fortunately the job is hidden by plastics. It was purely a peace of mind jobby.

That seat is not from a dtre. If that fits I will be very surprised.Sorry to be the one with the bad news.

Lol. For what you pay it's a surprisingly good quality.

Hello welcome to the site. A little introduction in the welcome section wouldn't go a miss. Two stroke engines are incredibly simple to build. Try and guage it from the photos. And maybe put some photos up here for us to have a little mooch. I do assume it's a two stroke

Oh and maybe even a little hello and an introduction before you just fire away questions. Just to be polite.

Best bet is to grab a multimetre and check to see if you're getting any power out of the genny. Follow it through and find out where the pusles stop. Could be a faulty coil, HT lead and even spark plug. Broken wire not allowing current through,

I have that set. It's absolutely lovely. The only bad thing about it is the hex bit retaining clip found in that plastic tub box. I lost it now all my bits fall out if you don't hold the tool 90 degrees +. So frustrating. Why they didn't use a ball bearing like everything else is beyond me.

Uhh Yeah unfortunately you will need a tank! Kinda sucks. And a new seat. As said they all interlock with one another. He obviously wanted a DTR so butchered the RE instead of buying one. It ain't that bad. www.ajsutton.co.uk will have prices for all the plastics and graphics and any other bit. As for seat and tank best bet is off eBay. It's unlikely a nice one will come up though.

DTR plastics are relatively cheap to be fair. The older style can be picked up from a lad in portgual for not very much less than £100 for the lot. DTRE ones are about the same for genuine ones from Yamaha. Yeah mate that's because you have a DTRE rear fender on there. The DTRE plastics interlock with all the other plastics. Because you have a mismatch that is obviously not happening. I'd saygrab yourself a set of new DTRE plastics. It's the graphics that really cost you. But there are quite a few aftermarket ones out there. Not to my liking but still. If you have a look at that link I sent you you will see how they should look. If you scroll through there will be photos of how they interlock.

There mate. You can get a whole new set and graphics for that price. I don't think you should have too much trouble. At the end of the day you can have the frame powdercoated and that will obviscate the numbers. These things happen. Might be worth having them professionally repunched or a VIN plate made up. Plastics are correct. That Oil bottle is incorrect and it's missing the grab rail. The CDI won't fit any other plugs. So the loom needs chopping. I'm running an aftermarket ignition and it really is a must for the DTRE the ignition is pathetic.

I do like those rims. It would be interesting to see the difference between solid discs and drilled and grooved. I noticed quite a difference from standard to high carbon content wavy discs on my bike.

Wow, hard to believe it's the same bike lmao!

Also I notice that the headlight is going to be incorrect on that. The RE does not need a frame to mount the headlight. They mount off the yokes. If I were you I'd look for the original cowling and brackets. They look much nicer than the older ones. And suit the SM look much more.

No no it does look like a RE frame sorry. It's just missing a few bits. The spanish built motors are not as well built as the Japan built ones, funny how that works... :/

Under the tank is suppose to be a bracket to hold the CDI. Why you would chop that off is beyond me. They have also replaced the rear shock for a pre 2004 model. Not sure why. And they have retrofitted the old Yamaha DT125R pre 2004 Oil bottle. The oil bottle is suppose to be mounted on the rear left hand side of the bike underneath the panels. Inaccessible which is never a good thing but for originatily. Looks like you've done a pucker job though mate, all things considered. I would also consider that frame and it's legitimacy. There is suppose to be a grab rail on the rear left hand side of the bike. That's missing. And as said there should be places to mount the oil bottle on the bike.

Lol. Why did it get brought back up.

Alright mate. What code is written on the cdi? Is it a 3RM? They may have rubbed off. Best thing to do is to check the Haynes manual for the wiring diagram