kenDAWG

welcome could the oil not have solidifyed covering the plates in sludge hence the slipping? just a stab really... best bet change your oil as stated before then get it warmed up see how it goes. welcome to forum leeginge ken

All this talk about Jimmy Savile and BBC cover-ups, its now been found out that Morph was a playdophile

ill keep that oil in mind... i havent changed the oil in mine since i bought it a couple of months ago so it might be the case for me that the oil is thicker than the yam recomend, unfortunatly i have no money and alot of stuff to buy... i need winter tyres aswell as christmas creeping up. ken

welcome get some pics up

I'm under the impression that the oiler is either open or closed so the vacuum increase wouldn't effect it! Aslong as there is enough to open the valve you would be good to go! I was looking into getting one of these also but can't be arsed trying to find a vacuum point on my dtr Ken

to be fair its been reaching very low temps through the night and at 6am its still really bitter where i live! im sure it was below zero with thick fog last week, i live a 5 min walk from the river tyne!! there in my opinion us 2 options here adjust your clutch cable and/or change oil or just do them both and report back to us and let us know how you got on... ryan09 i can understand why you think its not cold enough in uk and i dont mind people putting there argument/point of veiw across thats what this forum is for but do it again and i shall hunt you down and make you hurt lol only joking i had a 50cc automatic 2stroke a week or so back that wouldnt move off the spot revved up etc but no movement i couldnt fathem it out then a mate of mine that used to race 2 strokes changed the oil to thinner stuff and off it went - me scratching head wtf??? that prompted him to tell me that in the winter if i plan on using my bike (which i do with winter tyres on) i would prob need to change the oil especially once its reaching sub 0 temps. i only get problems with mine until i do a few gear changes and the plates are warmed up but when i first engage gear it jumps then creeps until it either stalls or i pull away the 2 mins down the road at the next junction its fine, i know its gonna get worse the colder it gets so gonna order some new oil soon. cheers ken

sorry bud i dont hammer bike until its warm, you be lucky if im anywhere near 4500rpm through the gears after initial 5-10mins warm up... all im saying is the clutch plates still have alot of friction with the oil being cold on my bike which is in a little tin hut at the bottom of my garden, i would have to warm it up for 20 mins if i wanted to thrash it off the bat but i dont neither do i have time nor the neighbours or my little girl for the tinny noise of a 2 smoker at 6am i paid £1.5k for my dt and i aint gonna abuse it - thinner oil for winter is all it needs and would it not be a good idea to change oil atleast twice a year if so then you could easy replace oil with change in weather/tempretures. ken

Am I correct In thinking that when the temperature outside drops the oil becomes more thick which Is causing the clutch plates some friction? This is happening to me on my dt125r at 6.00am on way to work but disappears after warmed up! I'm looking into thinner oil for winter. This is what I was told anyway! Cheers Ken

Hi there! I too passed my cbt on a sr125

welcome

good idea

have you ever seen a mackem in milan?

hello there

this has been one of the best forums i have signed up to, full of decent people i do belive the other forums wich cover a wider region of bikes (some i am a member of under different name) seem to be full of people with chips on there shoulders only ever wanting to sprout there point of view and bash people constantly for arguing a different point- there full of kids! you could have said nothing and went, instead you stamp your feet and throw your toys all over... just shut the door quietly on the way ken

thanks for that, i do belive the led indicators need some kinda resistor to regulate the flash... ill have to look deeper into this-there are alot of led rear lights but there not be used as single/main light more of a add on to exsisting lights cheers ken

hello again people. im toying with the idea of changing the light setup on the rear of my bike, at the moment its completely standard (dt125r) and the indicators are like fog lights off a mk1 fiesta "there massive" also the rear light and plate bracket look horrible and bulky. im looking at a tail tidy and some small LED indicators, but with my dt the rear light is part of the plastic plate hanger - ive seen a few dt's where the rear light is on top of mudgaurd where as mine is below and again its massive i think this is to make way for the rack (which i want to keep to strap my jerry can onto for green lainging) i would like a small slimline rear brake light i can mount under the rear mudgaurd above numberplate i have no ideas if i need to change anything over to help with voltage or not? anyone point me in the direction for the rear brake light? just trying to tone things down so its more minimalistic and not ott.... any advice is welcome cheers ken

makes it more personal yeh i can dig that - unfortuantly i dont have the privilage of time these days so i have to sell my old nsr jc20 1992 i was restoring! good luck pal cheers ken

aye lets no talk a boot the toon match eh? lol

i know what you are on about with the lines and angles, im a lover of the older classic cars but i am not a person to say its ugly by far would like to call myself open minded... but i do find turbo bikes very interesting!! also i think when you are standing next to a bike you can appreciate its beauty rather than a pic. would like to see one its its glory... good going so far ken

dt125r.. nothing exciting really lol

not keen on the look of these bikes but i do find them interesting being turbo versions... honestly didnt know they used to strap turbos to bike, why did they stop?? good luck on the project bud ill be watching this

welcome, i live near blaydon!! what bike you riding?

ok man i got that, thanx for your help... ill fire a couple of questions to the seller see what he says!! cheers ken

very helpfull post indeed... you see i dont want much cc i just want a little bit more hp so i can go up a tooth on the front sprocket - im not into the bike screeming at 60mph so i would like a little bit snappy for greenlaining and a little more topend for road use! so in your opinion the rebore is something worth investigating further? find out what the piston is made of? cheers ken

cynic you can hoy that elbow greese up your clacker valve i got my own!!! anyway on a serious note the feelings are that its a waste of money and the fact my little bikes bottom end might not be able to handle the compression... hmmmm...