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pablo0874

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Everything posted by pablo0874

  1. Yes got all lights clocks ignition barrel
  2. Slice ivel checked eBay daily since last year nothing at all. Airhead I have no sub looms nothing at all only wiring I done myself from rotor to kill switch and to ht coil just to run the bike
  3. contacted yuniparts they replied they do not do the dt 125 mk1 , so back to asking same question, I could probabl;y have a go at making one myself if I had a original but trying to make one from the crap that's called Haynes diagrams is just far to confusing , my small problem is , I do not have one sliver of the original wiring on this bike .
  4. Just one more thought could it be that I haven't adjusted the clutch enough to grip and its in actual fact slipping
  5. Hello dirty DT. What's the card site? And also I have no loom at all nothing to go on .so that would be a problem
  6. Morning all is there anybody on here who makes wiring looms to order cheers
  7. Sorry airhead I thought I explained in the post .tired when writing it.sorted I meant I got the case back on yes it was what you said the kick start spring needed locating properly with the plastic bush in the centre and then it went on no problems. There are no rubber rings in between plates just a metal plate and black friction or plastic type 5 metal and 6 plastic type. Once installed and got the bike running kicked into gear then clutch let out but have to rev the bike to Max to make it move ever so slowly no strange noises or anything neither. I think the timing is not right on the bike .as I don't have the timing tool to correctly set it.its running but just doesn't sound right. So I'm guessing this would not help if that's the case.
  8. Sorry last post reposted. To answer your question blackhat The plates were really stuck to get here to begin with and had to separate pry apart one of the plastic or fibre looking plates the ones with the raised squares on them was cracked slightly. The rest were quite flat and not raised at all which I presume should be a bit higher for the grip .or am I wrong?
  9. Sorted that now case back together clutch to worn though to take up the drive does take it up though have to rev the hell out of the bike though to get it move a little but never the less it did move there are a few other issues with the running of the bike I think so it would need engine out and a few new parts putting in .it is a project anyway so not in a rush to complete its been three years since I started with a frame and found all the other parts to go in so for me not knowing nothing about bikes and to coma as far as starting it up and it moving just that little made me feel that it hasn't been a waste of time up to now.so I think its time to strip it down back to frame and start again and document it all this time for a post on here cheers airhead .blackhat
  10. Sorted that now case back together clutch to worn though to take up the drive does take it up though have to rev the hell out of the bike though to get it move a little but never the less it did move there are a few other issues with the running of the bike I think so it would need engine out and a few new parts putting in .it is a project anyway so not in a rush to complete its been three years since I started with a frame and found all the other parts to go in so for me not knowing nothing about bikes and to coma as far as starting it up and it moving just that little made me feel that it hasn't been a waste of time up to now.so I think its time to strip it down back to frame and start again and document it all this time for a post on here cheers airhead .blackhat
  11. Great videos example lains a lot .well took crankcase of earlier and discovered as u said airhead plates all stuck together solid with rust rubbed them down oil on them and back in basket and clutch seems to be working as it should now in and out on cable. The only problem I have now is the kick start mechanism popped out and every time I put it back as the Haynes manual states I can't seem to get the crankcase back on. Doesn't seem to close tight .and finding it hard to match the cogs on the water and oil pump up to the cog in there when putting back together .is there a technique to it all .cheers
  12. Cheers airhead and black hat in the words of great scrufy detective columbo just one more thing, before I attempt this is there still a possibility there is also something else going wrong in the gears as all gears can be selected without a clutch is that normal as when I have no chain on I can select all gears and you see them spinning faster as u go up the gears surely u cannot select gears without it crunching somewhere or am I wrong am I thinking cars to much .bear in mind this is the first ever bike I have owned and built like Manuel of Fawlty tower ,I know nothing
  13. cheers airhead im I right in thinking this job can be done with engine still in bike just replacing the engine seal gasket on reassembly ?
  14. Well started bike then sat on it brake on and banged into gear a few times bike just stalled every time moved a bit forward .clutch still not there tried tying clutch lever up left it two days nothing so would that be strip down and renew clutch plates? Is this as easy as Haynes makes it to be or should I be worried ? Cheers for all your help
  15. I will get the chain on today and see what happens . but still not sure about the clutch having no effect will keep you all posted thanks for the replies.
  16. I know what you mean by spinning like when you jack a car up engine running and sometimes front wheels spin a bit .it has that but also has definite in gear spinning as when engine running I can change through all gears and you see sprocket spin faster and faster till top gear defo in gear when this happens I think if there were a chain on it would take off maybe I'm wrong
  17. I bought the engine a year ago so don't know when was last time used clut h wise so you may be right that its stuck I will try what you said about tie it up so its stuck on ? Leave it for a day or two and let you know what happens as for the bolt screw 3\4 up the case by sprocket can't seem to find that .but its like in the Haynes manual it says there's a timing mark in the crankcase to set the stator plate and that's not there neither thanks anyway will try tht
  18. What's normal ? Thevbike going into gear on its own? Wouldn't this be dangerous if I had the chain on it ? Bike take off. Do u know why the clutch when pulled does nothing to the gears
  19. may I just add I have noknowledge of motorbike mechanics till I started this Yamaha dream three years ago , and majority of my knowledge I have gleened of the tinternet , or Haynes indecipherable manuals , still black and whit in the 21st century , so do forgive me if I seem like a dumbass
  20. hello if anyone can help me or point me in the right direction I would be appreciative , I have a yam dt 125 mk 1 10 v engine , engine is running never beem rode the bike that , bike has been put together from frame upwards engine never been rebuilt or crank cases opened, chain is not connected yet, the engine runs and now and again will go into different gears on its own after freewheeling in neautral while ticking over , is this normal ? also the clutch actuating lever can be removed upward and outward if I wish should that be able to do that ? I have connected a cable to it and it pulls ok and returns on the spring as it should it just seems when the engine is running and it seems to be in gear as the front sprocket spins faster I pull the clutch and it still spins , shouldn't pulling the clutch stop this ie disengage the gears, if anyone can give us a heads up that would be grand , am I talking new clutch plates ? or is the actuating lever or push rods knackered somewhere , I can get it to run the engine that is now after a long time , it seemed the timing needed adjusting , just needs carb adjusting now but I would rather no where I stand on this clutch business first before I waste anymore time , cheers for any help in advance
  21. li like I said im novice to bikes and learning still no the carb has not been cleaned as in picture that's how I run it , so I need to seal the tank then seal the inlets for the coolant cos im not using them as its a mk 1 theres no oil leaks from the crank seal (or would this be the case no oil just air getting in ) ?
  22. yes I think its definitely of a later dt with the coolant pipes on the top it does work though I got it up and running last week however doesn't run very well pull out the choke and it calms down then gets higher again obviously need settings doing somehow I haven't a clue but I did get it to work just found a leak in the petrol tank at the same time drip drip from I think the seam , any ideas how to sort that ?
  23. cheers for the encouragement there , the latest is I hooked that circuit up and the kill switch as you suggested topped it up with some petrol two stroke and transmission oil (bear in mind I don't know wether or not this engine is anygood or the cdi works , apart from the small drip leak ive found from the left side of the petrol tank I kick it two maybe three times and wollop she bursts into life a noisy two stroke idles wuite high for some time I think while all the crap clears out from not being used in god knows how long , then I start it over and over again cant seem to get the idle normal but I guess that's another topic/subject it started im over the moon!!! just got to wait now to get more time to do more work on it , what I did find was that I pulled the choke out this slowed the idle speed down and pushing it back in speeded it up , oh well that's another trick when I get to it im sure I will be back as soon as I get the time off, cheers again dt 502001
  24. cheers again for that you say I need a regulator , but just at the moment im not gonna attach the battery it should run without shouldn't it just to see if the engines ok that's all,, that makes sense what youre saying about wiring the kill switch into the black white wire I just don't know why the Haynes says otherwise , im not sure I should trust the Haynes man to use for wiring now , wehats the best way to get a good diagram for the mk 1 that works ?
  25. hi dt502001, thanks for all the info the wiring diagram is for the lc mk 1 in the Haynes manual, being a novice to bikes and certainlyt a novice to electrics I would not know i just added the colour to clarify it for my self , i connected it up like this but found out the battery was not needed anyway i wired it all in and wether or not the kill switch was in the open or closed position it stil;l got a spark even without battery so i took the kill switch out of the circuit and now the ignition in off position no spark ignition in position 1 allows spark so am i right in saying i can just turn the ignition off to kill the engine when needed? also the Haynes diagram is far to confusing as it shows the left hand switch with indicators /horn /and dip switch the wiring seems to match up colourwise however they show the lighting switch which is separate with seven wires all different colours and the lighting switch on mine had three wires just doesn't make sense and this is all one unit on the left hand switch, however i have a spark now which i can turn off/kill with the ignition fo fingers crossed put some petrol in tomorrow and try fire the thing up , then come back to wiring the lights etc at a later date and also seem to need a voltage regulator as well (but will i need to put this in before i run it without lights?) you say about the lighting coil where is that?. cheers anyway for the advice .
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