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About jim*jimbo

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  • Current Bike(s)
    TY175, Aprilia RSV4 1000 APRC

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South Devon, UK
  • Interests
    Bikes, golf, boats and MF35 tractor (sad but true!)
  1. Hi Js - welcome! Had to google the AT3 and to the best of my knowledge DT 125's weren't sold with electric starts over here in the UK - in fact 125's were quite rare here. All that unecessary extra weight when the engine would fire up on the kick start if you dropped a pea on it! Did they make an AT3 + with auto transmission, air con and power streering over there? haha just jesting. Hope you find one Jim.
  2. jim*jimbo

    1976 DT175C

    Hi Sach - how's the DT going - sorry I've been out of touch for a while - working 7 days a week. Cheers Jim.
  3. Thanks Dirty - I'll have a go at your suggestions. Jim.
  4. Hi, sounds like the float in the original carb was defective/stuck and you went down the correct route by getting an overhaul kit. Sorry to hear tha the parts were the wrong size. Lets see if someone can tell you if the original carb is the correct one for your bike. I'm guessing that the carb is Mikuni. I've got an old one which I think came of a 175 and there are the numbers 525 61 stamped on a small 10mm x 10mm flat on the body of the carb. If the carb is off the bike you should be able to see it ok. As this is the only number I can find on the carb (I checked it all over and inside the float chamber) I also guessing that this is the part number. Let us know what yours is then some friendly 125 Enduro owner out there may tell you what number they have. You can probably read the number with the carb in place using a torch. Good luck Jim p.s. filling in your profile will get more responses.
  5. Hi Sach - I finally did it! Next step is to work out how post photo's on topics and replies. Don't hold your breath!!!!!!!! TC Jim
  6. What's that old saying - 'If at first you don't suceed' - hmm in my case about 100 try agains . I finally got an image on my profile - to be honest I'm not entirely sure how i did it! It could have been imageshack OR photobucket - But then that other old gem - 'So close but so far' seriously rears its head. I don't seem to be able to crop or rotate the image - can anyone explain how? maybe its not possible? cheers frustrated from Devon.
  7. jim*jimbo

    1976 DT175C

    Hey Dirty, they look really good - tempted to do the same to my forks! Cheers Jim. p.s. do you hold the record for the most number of posts?
  8. Hi Drew, my advice would be to get a compression test done assuming you haven't already got the engine in bits! Any decent garage will have a guage and you only have to remove the spark plug. 2000 miles is nothing for a bike of this type if its been used on the road - even if its been thrashed off road for most of the 2k miles its still not a huge amount. I had a DT175 that covered 25k hardish miles before it needed a rebore. Even when relatively new this engine had a characteristic top end rattle thats nothing much to worry about. Big end bearings should not be noisy though. Good luck Jim.
  9. Hey guys - if you've got a loose gear level, kick start etc do yourself a huge favour and tighten it up correctly before you ride again. If you strip a spline on an engine/gearbox shaft get ready for a nasty ££ surprise and a load of agro . Some of you may have seen or even bought a bike where the problem has been 'fixed'/bodged' by welding the lever to the shaft - the problem then gets worse when there's an engine casing that needs to come off. My old TY had a loose gearlever because it couldn't be tightened up anymore as the pinch gap the alan screw tightens had fully closed. This is an aftermarket lever - not uncommon on off road bikes as its one of the first things to get mangled. Easy fix though - removed the alan screw, shoved the gear lever in the vice to close the pinch gap then used a fine bladed hack saw to enlarge the pinch gap by about 1mm. Back on the bike for a snug fit on the spline. Happy Days! Jim.
  10. jim*jimbo

    1976 DT175C

    Hi Sacha, recommend white spirit to clean out your oil tank - no smokin! Fork legs - got the same problem with my TY. You really need to replace or have them hard chromed as already suggested. New fork oil - 10, 20 or 30w depending on the weight of the rider (30w is pretty thick so gives the most damping effect) and seals at the same time. I've tried to get new legs but no longer available for the TY so I'm looking at around £150 to have them re chromed - the other guys have already given me contacts in the UK. The original yamaha chrome was not the best and rechroming will result in a superior quality. Your forks lowers are the same as mine. I want to keep them as near original as possible so I'll probably buff and re laquer. Painting them is the easiest solution - perhaps silver with a clear lacquer to finish. Another possible option is a bike breaker - It might be cheaper to replace the entire front end - forks, wheel and mud guard - may even get a disc brake upgade. If you go down this route take one of your fork legs along with you to ensure they match in diameter and length - motorcross forks can be a lot longer and it would make your DT look like a chopper and handle badly. In the UK this would count as modifying the bike from an insurance standpoint so check this out first. Guys - feel free to comment on this option - good or bad? Keep the Q's coming Sacha Jim.
  11. Respect Nathan, I'll follow with interest Jim.
  12. Some of you guys know that I recently bought an old (but willing - bit like me) ty175. Having got it home (after a 10 hour round trip) and got it started (after reconnecting a wire that had pulled off the coil under the tank in transit) it seemed to be running a bit hot - just a hunch having had loads of air cooled two strokes in the past and not having the benefit of a temp guage! Then I remembered a comment that the seller made - i.e. he always put an eggcup full of oil in the petrol tank when he filled up - a ty175 only holds 4 litre of fuel from absolute empty. Adding extra lubricant may seem like a good idea but apparently can cause the engine to run hot and possibly cause damage. The reason is fairly simple: if the engine runs on a leaner fuel to air ratio than recommended it will run hotter.So by adding oil to the tank (assuming the autolube is operating correctly) it increases the air to fuel ratio thus overheating may occur. Just a thought and hoping it may avoid some problems out there in Yam world. As always - I stand to be corrected and/or better informed. Jimbo.
  13. Did the same thing riding through long grass on my DT175 - hit a hidden tree stump and straight over the bars, and yes i also had an audience! I put nearly 20k miles on that DT including a lot of weekends riding/racing around a huge old chalk pit near Luton, absolutely bullet proof, it just wouldn't break. If only I'd have kept it...........................
  14. Hey Airhead - wish you would'nt make your answers so elongated!
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