dt502001

More info to do your head in LOL look on your forks for a information sticker,it wil be a small square sticker with a bunch of hand written info hopfully you have one and the shop that did the work will have a phone number or name and a customer number. If you have that then you can call them and they will have a record of what was done by the customer #. The rear spring will have a dot of paint on it to identify what spring weight it is.

As I thought more bad news Billy if they did the drop proprely then you will need to change the rear spring as well,when the drop arm is installed you need to increase the spring by @ 10% to make up for the extra leverage.so if you chang it back you will have a realy stiff spring unless you weigh more than 160 lbs as that what the stock spring is set up for rider weight. With 100mm of sag. Ie if a rider wieghs 140 lbs then a stock spring with the lowering kit works fine,but if a rider weighs 160 lbs then you need a 180 spring with the lowering kit. Fyi sag is the difference of the bike at rest vs the height when you sit on the bike.

Yes you can get a stock link from yamaha but you need to fix the front as well,measure the length of the shock and see if it the same length as a stock one then you can at least eliminate spring changes/mods. The tubes should only come past the top of the tripple clamp by 5mm,if they are more than that then you can probably just move them back. Not 100% sure on the 2013 but the top of the fork has a grove all the way around thats where they should meet the triple clamp. Edit the stock link has the yamaha part number cast on it so check yours

I wondered why the Raider wasn't on your list,if you get one then you will be one of the only ones you see

They would have had to change the link in the lower part of the shock to get it that low,you will need the stock one to get the ride height back in the rear.The front they could have changed the springs/cut the springs. Or just slid them up. Your best to contact the last owner and ask them what they did and if they still have the stock rear link.

type in gearing caculator into google and you will find a site that lets you enter your bike and change the gearing and it will caculate it for you everything top speed ,speed in gear's ect.http://www.gearingcommander.com/ was in my fav's

For the amount of time it takes better off to pull it appart and clean it,1 little piece left in there could ruin a new rebuild.Or worse kill the crank.Also you can check the main bearings condition who knows how much dammage they took?Personaly I would never go the flush and pray method. The barrel well if it is still round?

Lol thats loonies--- canucks bucks $ ,,converted would be 50 ish of your monoply I would guess? Edit remember the charging system is a complete loss system( no battery) and the light gets brighter as you rev the bike thoe the stock is not that good.

I too have to agree just fix what needs fixing and custom the rest on the cheap,flat track it or ?? Restoring a 250 is nuts,,but it's your money if it's what you want then we will be watching and waiting

Hi ,2 fun bikes

They all filcker on idle,I put a UFO complete head light farring and light 55-60w was 100.00... less than the yam light alone,when my light got broken and it is BRIGHT.The only thing is the rubber straps that mount it to the forks only last about 3 years and need to be replaced 20 bucks as they are all cracked. The hang up is your pilot adjustment ,having the quick adjuster you can get it solved easy. Bike's looking good

Dont waist your money,DUDE you can get more power and driveabilty out the tuner than a pipe and 1 dyno run. The maps can make more power than the pipe and if you put a pipe on after a dyno run you need a new map,with the tuner you can "BUILD" it yourself as simplie as addin 1 number or taking away 1. a week with it in your hands and you will go why carbs for racing

All your's Foams.......and don't ell me what you see................. I am noy clicking that link I don't even want to know You to Kev I dont want to know,,,,,NOOOOOO I dont care

Ouch ouch ouch,LOL 3 down how does it play out.

WhOOOOOOO back the up Fuck up...!!!!! dude Who the hell are you? A warranty for 3 years on a 2007, more like your paying for it for 3 years monthly. Welcome

The 2 pipes on the side are for coolant to heat the carb they dont actualy let coolant into float bowl ,the largest one into the float bolw is the fuel inlet,the small one on the right side sitting on bike would be the oil pump line. the other 2 are over flow running to the bottom. Hope that helps.

I like starting at the back and working my way to the front and then into a top position. in a group of riders you perverts.

For what it will cost or close to, to have a dyno set up you could buy the Gytr tuner, they are only 300.00 or so, and tune it for every different condition(wet, dry ,sand and different tracks). They are simple to use store 9 maps you built and liked.You get your bike set up on a dyno and your stuck with that map sure it might make the most power but ,these bikes can make too much power in the wrong rev range and make you slower on lap times and make you work harder to go fast. Thats why I like the 250's you can ride them fast all the time,in the woods the big bikes have trouble keeping up,the only time a 450 has any advantage is if a open feild is in the course and, generaly most guys have thier bike set up for bottom end power so the advantage is small. READ THE MAPS and you will see how you can make thew bike work better for you depending on the conditions,, in seconds with the tuner,,,just a matter of plug it in reset the values and your back riding with a bike that makes tons on bottom end torque or tons of top end power the choices are endless. Quick question did you go with the wiseco head gasket? wondering if it worked with the athina kit.

HAHAHAHAHA she got some nosie neighbours,just wait till you show up on the bike they will all think the hells angles have moved in.

Well you needed to determin how deep the scratches are in the cylinder,to know if it is borable if the scratches are deeper than .030`` then its junk . Depending the condition of the rest of he bike you might just be better off to buy something else,a 1978 gt 80 is not a desirable bike and dumping alot of money into it ??? well thats up to you. You can sell off good parts of the bike how easy or hard that will be ? someone might be tring to have a set of bikes from 80cc to 250 and if you have a good set of original body work??? Godd luck with it.

Welcome

Hi ya Seb looks like a nice clean rebuild.

You could also clean the tank with vinager and some screws,nuts what ever,just put them in and give it a realy good shaking, remove the fuel tap first though dont want to break the res/on pipe.If the tank is realy rusty then you might want to seal it with Kreem tank sealer.

Yep under 10 bucks cut the line and install with the arrow going to the carb,just get one the same size as your fuel line

Pilot jet is probably pluged,give the carb a complet cleaning.