dt502001

If your talking about top gear and trying to get the old girl to rev past 6000 you would have wanted to put a 1 tooth smaller sprocket on Not bigger. If the lower gears will pull past 6500 she just dosen't have the steam to pull that tall gearing. If its is all gears then u need to rejet have a look at the plug colour should be coffey double cream colour.The best way to check is to take a socket with you run the bike as hard as you can in top gear ,pull in the clutch and kill the eng. pull the plug out and check if white BAD needs more fuel, dark to rich. Now the hard part only change 1 thing at a time OR YOU WILL CONFUSE YOURSELF depending on how rich or lean will determin how to correct it , main jet,air fuel screw or piolet jet or raise lower the needle. Jets are easy bigger or smaller ,main mostly for big gains in fuel ,,piolt for fine tuning needles come in so many different shape you could spend the rest of your life playing around with different combinations. So just make sure you have the right 1and someone didn't put in the wrong one. And the clip is in the right position normaly the middle, also for more fine tuning of the midle range of fuel delivery. The air fuel screw I go 1/8 of a turn at a time Mark it as to where it is now and use that as your reference point , as in turning it in better or worse then if better than keep goin in that direction untill you get it right.But if its worse than you know you can go back to the orignal point and +1/8. Everytime you change something do a plug check. This is a hard thing to get right so be paitent once you learn how to make all the small adjustments your bike will work better than most. Now if I haven't total scared you away get at tuning your bike Cheers out Phil K O PS. that fat washer may have been part of a "tuneing kit" which is a box of new parts jets needles and washers that all need to be there to get it to work right they were real popular so double check the # on you main and needle

I like it.... Ive been pondering for a while as to what I want to build next,that my son can realy help alot with.This look like the way to go. When laying out your carbon fiber what are you using for a release agent, to remove it from the mock up?

Well if you got 1 out then the second 1 should be easier now you can see inside, work at it 12 o clock 6 oclock 3 ..9 with a long punch a couple of good blows at each point if the bearing moves it will force out the rubber seal. ..I could see some nicks in the hub they may be whats holding it up if they have made part of the hole a wee bit smaller. The other option is to make a puller you will need a pipe with a ID bigger than the bearing OD some thread rod nuts to fit and a couple of thick washers 1 bigger than the pipe and 1 as close to the size of the OD of the bearing ,put the pipe on the outside... rod and nut small washer on the inside put it through the pipe and put the other nut,washer on and tighten it up till the bearing pops out.

What a great idea for shocks ...how well is it standing up to dirt NEV

May i suggest he gets a nice shiny new sand blastin cabnit for his birthday or a nice hand held one for doing bigger things that won't fit in a cabinet like oh lets say a motorcycle frame Speedybond part #42267 works well comes in a putty form and can be apyled up side down un like jb that runs alover the place, Ive used it to even re thread a striped hole ,pack it in and put some grease on the bolt and insert wait 10-15 min and remove .It hardens in 60 min ,jb takes 24 hrs

Hi you might want to repost in workshop more people will see it there, my buddy put lc forks on his years ago but I can't remeber if he had to bore out the triple clamp. but I don't think so. lots of people have these old bike so someone will probably know or Just grab a micrometer and measure them up. Keep us up to date whith the project I love seeing these old bikes come back to life

hi

Hi repost this in workshop these threads move quickly, looks like your havin a we bit of trouble using the site

Hi welcome to the site ,bike looks great what's the tank from?

Hi Morton not sure about fitting a new arm on but your opening a big can of worms, steering head angel is going to change with a smaller dia. rim. Anyway thats yours to fix But you should take a min and introyourself in the new members section it only polite to know a bit about who your talking to

Mutton head more money than brains

What a lucky guy no wonder he married you! but if that changes call me LOL. Great job so far I've seen muton heads take weeks to get that far. Before you recover the seat after cleaning up all the rust you might be faced with some holes,what I have done before when I couldn't find a new or better one,was to use fiberglass resion to coat the inside and stop the rust from comming back. Just tape over the holes and brush on the resin on the inside the the cover will hide your repairs, stinky job and the fuems will fry your brain so do this outside. If your not looking to show the bike you can reinforce the entire pan with fiber glass cloth. Just lay a coat of resin and lay strips of cloth down and recoat with resin. You need to work fairly quickly so pre cut the cloth to fit ,using smaller strips is easier than trying to fit 1 large piece down flat. Incase you havent done the brakes before just pop them off spring and all and change the springs on the bench,use a flat blade screw drive to open up the no pivot end, take some sand paper and clean up the rust in the drum.Pull the pivot out and clean and re grease lots of different companys make brake grease I like Loctight comes in a neat little tube and work's like a lip stick tube. also put a bit in the grove section of the rubber seal to keep the dust out of the bearings. Have fun I will be watching to see how it comes along Phil K

This is our biggest MX race of the year.It's for the CMRC Nationals title ,,,,,,hope you like it's a mix of pro's ,kids and all inbetween. Enjoy all

Hi steve shorting the wires shouldn't have caused the cdi to die, and no there is no way to test a cdi unit ....short of puting it on a running bike,, if that bike still runs then it's good.

K what is wrong with ppl you all seem to jump on the site wantin info but don't bother to intro yourself , take a few min and say hi in the new members section and you might get the picture ur looking for

Lots of people own thoes bikes here and could give you a book full of info but ,,,,it is only polite to post a bit about youself in the new members section then you will get more responce. That said any good suspension shop can set up the bike for your weight and travel wont be any longer but custom fit for your weight, you might want to talk to the guy's who are dirt riding around your area they will be able to hook you up with a good suspension shop.

Hi paul what cover are you talking about?

Not sure why you need to tell your insurer, I belive your bike came 90/90/18f and110/90/18r if it's the same as the 86 I ran 100/90/18f 120/90/18r the bike handeled thoes nasty road cracks better with that set up. I also ran that set up on all my rd's and the 2 bikes share the same rims. I think the most important part here is to keep the increase in size proportinal front /rear so as not to affect the steering head angle and not over strech the tire vs limit of the rim. The 130 would be way to fat to proprely fit on the skinny rim and the side wall would be weakened. Where I see people makin a mess of things is when they start changin profile and width or only putting on a big fat rear and it totaly messes up the steering angle, 1/2 of a degree can realy change the way a bike handels.

Hi tom

Hi steve I won't be makin the trip to dover this 13th got a fishin trip planed. Have a blast ....I have been ten times now and it's always a great time, seein 10,000 bikes lined up and down every street on peoples lawns. The town folk sure do a great job welcoming everyone even the cops are OK. Not sure anyother town would welcome with us such open minds. Ownesound bike raly comes close and WALTON cmrc fall nationals Take some good picts and port them up so all here can get a Idea just how cool it is, seein harley and japers hangin out in harmony I,ve been to alot of event's but it's prety hard to top Dover Thorndale SWO Phil rubber down metal up

Sorry to say but yamaha didn't alow for valve clearence,the shop you took it to to have bored cleaned it up but prob didn't tell you. Another thing all ports should be chamfered after boring to stop a ring from cliping the sharp edge. General rule is 2thou per inch of bore for clearence, but as note above different pistons expand differently. Any time i bought pistons they came with bore/clearence specs. Sometimes just a sticker on the box but normaly a note inside The ball type hone work nice and don't get caught up in the ports

As noted above NO INTRO NO INFO besides you want a honda so go buy one then join a honda forum when it breaks down

Will it gravity bleed through...ie hold it higher than the rear master pump. air will rise might take a bit....if so than your rear master cylinder(pump) is the problem. The other thought is if it's used ......the square o ring and piston might be corroded and need to be cleaned up. If your old one wasn't leaking brake fluid you might just be chasing your own tail. Old crapy brake fluid my have rotted your old caliper or master clyinder and the "new/ used" might have the same problem. Try pushing out the old pistons ...If they have pits they are junk...and see if they have a bunch of corrosion if so just clean up everything with brake fluid and a rag( not the hag) till it sparkels and have another go at it

WO wo do not put oil on top of the piston...this will only make thing's worse....Basic 101 oil is to be controled on the bottom by the oil ring the bottom one on any piston and keep the oil down. After a long storage period then a few drop's of deisel fuel( Over night) will loosen the top ring up the most important one as it controls compression. I can't stress this enough do not ever put oil on top of a piston. doing this will give you faulty compression reading and when the oil gets burnt it will cause the top ring to get plugged up with the burnt oil making it FN useless to float and make compression, or worse cause a siezure. If anything put a few 10 or so drops of gas in through the spark plug hole and if it starts everytime you do that then your choke circut(hole that lets the extra gas in) is pluged up. And you need to clean the carb fully.

Never been a fan of rain riding,been caught in a lot over thee years.Years ago when I had a 86 fzr600 I had metzler me33 on the front and a Prieli demon on the back and I could pull wheelies in the rain.In the dry though that prielli earnd it's name some times it felt like the road was wet never ever bought another prielli again. If I had to put up with all the rain you guys get I would fit intermidiate rain tires might burn up a few more a year but if you ever ridin on full rain or inter. tires it will blow your mind how well they stick. Cheers it's 31c and dry as a bone here sorry to rub it in but I can LOL