jimmy

What little experience of 2 smokes I have, 1 back in the day, premix only, and my sons modern bike, separate tank, I would go with using the pump

Welcome to the forum mate, post some pics, we like pics

The bike was being held vertical, although if it was on the side stand, which is on the same side as the glass, surely it would show a higher oil level

Cheers dt, will give it a try tomorrow

Just discovered this thread. My boy just changed the oil on his virago, I gave him a tin of mineral oil from Halfrauds, thinking its an old engine, 1990, that it would run on Mineral hmmmm, got me thinking

My boy came in from college today and asked me to have a look at his bike. I had told him to make sure he checks his oil, and on doing so saw no oil showing on the sight glass. I had a look and sure enough no oil. Strange, thinks I, as the guy we bought it from had just done a resto job and gave me a list of receipts including oil and filter. Anyway I dug out the manual and showed him how to drain the oil (not expecting much to come out), but a full quota of oil poured out, looking clean as well. He then filled it up with new oil using 2.6l as recommended, but still nowt shows on the sight glass. Before I pull it apart, who's familar with these engines and if I just remove the genny cover will the sight glass come off with it in order for me to have a look. On a brighter note, this is the first time he has done an oil change, and I have made the effort to stand by and let him do things himself, as recommended by the board a wee while ago.

Dont slip then......

Some companies will do it, but it would probably be cheaper getting a 4 hour van hire from a local hire firm, or better still if you know someone with a van

A few years ago I walked into Scotbike in Glasgow with money burning a hole in my pocket. I went to the bike I wanted and started looking over it and generally putting out the vibes that any bike salesman should have seen easily. There were 3 salesmen mobbing a blonde bimbo, looking over a Ducati, about 10' from me so I could hear them fawning over her. I stood around for about 15 minutes, having attracted their attention 5 mins earlier, and when I heard her say "so if I pass my test, could I "drive" this, I had had enough. As I walked out the door my mate tells them "that blokes just walking away with £6k in his pocket". The 3 fuckers came running after me and I had great pleasure in telling them to fuck off. I then travelled about 1 mile along the road to Scotstoun Superbikes, a smallish shop run by a guy called David Petrie, where I was offered a cup of tea (in an old fashioned mug, not a paper cup) and we discussed the pros and cons of buying a bike. With as little pressure as possible he got himself a sale.

Is the crank out the casing, if so could you get in with a Dremel fitted with a cutting disk?

Well done Ben Theres a bit of satisfaction sorting a wee job out yourself, eh mate. Now the pedal is lowered you can check your oil through the sight glass easily enough now.

I agree with Airhead. No primer but I would use a rust treatment, I have used Kurust in the past with good results.

Ben I never had the pedal off on the boys bike, but you can try removing the rear brake arm off the drum to see if this allows the pedal to sit properly. If it does refit the arm on the splines, ensuring it slopes back away from the bike. He sold his bike a couple f weeks ago, so I cant check for you. Edit. Is this tube at the rear of the engine, if so, its the battery breather. Re: Chain tension. On your chainguard there should be an opening, allowing you to see a link in the chain. If you cannot see the link, or if its at the very top of the opening, then the chain is too tight. Similarly if its at the bottom, it is too slack. You will get tight spots on the chain, so have it on the centre stand and slowly rotate the wheel (by hand) whilst looking at the indicator.

Yip as Merv says, they should match, but back in the day they would have been getting the nuts screwed off them so engine changes were common. Just make sure the engine and frame numbers match the numbers recorded on the V5c. This site may interest you http://www.rd350lc.net/index.htm

Cheers mate

Welshwan Do you mind if I borrow some of your pics, another forum I visit has a guy fixated with bridges. I will, of course, credit you with it. And if you know, how would I write Bridge Club in Welsh?

Alright mate, welcome to the forum. You really need a new interest to list mate. I mean c*rs...

Alright mate. How did you realise it was still live. Were the ignition lights still on. Will the bike start with the keys out, and can you remove the key with the engine running. My boys sr125 had a dodgy key which could be removed as above, and sometimes he would hit the killswitch and remove the key ending up with a flat battery the next day Do us a favour and stick up an intro, you may find folk more helpful that way.

Although not used to vacuum carbs, I would imagine the diaphragms need to sit properly in order to get am effective seal for the vacuum....

Ben That part is all you need. It comes in 2 halfs and you will reuse the springs that are already fitted. Take a good look, maybe even some pics on your phone, at the shoes that are fitted so you know what way to fit the new ones. If you feel up to it have a look at the old shoes prior to fitting, it may be that the previous owner had the brake arm off and fitted it further round than it should be.

Good link there Drewpy

You can phone DVLA direct and they will inform you exactly what you need, however in my experience, You will need a dating letter from Yamaha UK. If you present that, plus clear photos of the engine and frame number at your nearest DVLA centre they will take the deatails and may ask you to present the bike at a VOSA centre where their guys will look at the numbers. In my experience the VOSA guys are good at picking up any unauthorised alterations of the numbers. It will be good (for you in the event the bike was stolen) if you have a receipt from the guy you bought it from.

Yes Unscrew the torque arm, release the brake rod and wheel off. Remove the brake arm and the brake plate will come away. The shoes sit on the plate held by 2 springs. Just note which way the springs sit and replace with the new ones. While the shoes are off, remove the pivot and clean it up and put some copaslip on it. This will help keep it from binding

Just looking at the angle of the brake arm coming down from the pivot. If you put an imaginary line running horizontal through the pivot, the arm should not be less than 90 degrees.

Yip, I meant to say that. Got caught up in the "how to change a bearing"