Migthy Mule
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Posts posted by Migthy Mule
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had 7 thou skimmed off the top of the barrel, No problems fitting it back over the rings, I oiled the bore and just squeezed the rings with my fingers. waiting for a converter to arrive so I can torque down the head.
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Thanks Paul, yeah good plan, should the worst happen I dont fancy trying to fish bits out of the bottom of the engine.
oh thanks for the heads up on allens performance. really nice bloke, ive now got a few sizes of jets to try, ill post some pictures when its all back together.
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Hello again, the Dt developed a head leak so I have removed the barrel and ordered a new gasket set, I thought it best while I was at it to check the faces were flat but I now have to re fit and I dont have a piston ring compressor, as there are only two rings I was hoping it should be easy enough.
I was planning on cutting a slot in a piece of ply and sliding it under the piston and around the con rod to lock it in place. any suggestions or hints gratefully received.
Soon I shall have adjusted and replaced everything on the bloody thing and by then I hope to be able to ride it
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Just been studying the pictures in your gallery and it looks the same as yours
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all the wheels and forks are the same unless you have an imported leading axle style fork
Im having some trouble with photo bucket but im fairly sure its not the leading axle style ( thats where the forks run down behind the spindle i guess)
im away monday night but ill get some photos on on Tuesday, thanks
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this is listed for 1979 to 1981 and is the same as the first one I ordered, note the reduced size thread
the one I removed and have since replaced looked like this :
could it be a wheel from a 250 ?
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the new spindle arrived but was too short, I returned it and got one for a newer model / slightly longer and with a bigger thread that matched the one I removed but this hasnt helped - this got me thinking - could the problem be that I have the wrong front wheel, can anyone enlighten me as to whether the early model dts (round section swing arm) had a narrower hub arrangement,
Thanks
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Thanks both,
ill give allens a call on monday and yes at the price i should likely try a few sizes, Im assuming that by sealing up the air box propperly i have reduced the air flow,
I have not oiled the air filter yet, its dry but once I do there is no going back
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Stripped down the clutch today and cleaned all the plates with a bit of petrol, I noticed there was a little surface corrosion on the plates so I polished them up with some very fine wet n dry and a little auto sol . Success, nice light clutch working properly
Ive done about 100 miles on it gently so gave it a little stick today, feels like its boging down a little so think ill try a smaller jet its got a 160 in at the moment any ideas where I can get a 150 from i cant find it on yambits or wemoto, thanks
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Put it together and adjusted it as far as I could, got a small amount of free play at lever but the clutch still drags slightly, wondering if I should try a different grade oil ive put 10/40 in,
good news is it passed its mot on Saturday
:hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper:Massive thanks to you all for your help, especially Airhead seems like its been a long road and its not over yet still a few niggles to sort but at least I can ride it now,
Had to mot both my bikes on Saturday and the Dt was the star of the show. I lent it up against the wall at the garage (no stand) and went in to pay, when I returned to it there were two blokes stood admiring it, I was greeted by "where did you find this little treasure mate" , looking forward to showing the guys at work tomorrow just got to gently run it in over the next couple of weeks. thanks again all
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ill try giving it another 8th of a turn
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I turned the screw untill the arm was in line with the pip on the casing - about as far as it would go ( cable off )
The adjuster is in the centre of the pressure plate.
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well, I took off the cover and it turned out that the lock nut on the end of the push rod was loose, (1980s DT 125 bottom end), following the instructions in my Haynes manual I adjusted it to the pip on the case but when the lever is pulled in it has no affect, though I can see the pressure plate moving out it wont disengage
by continuously adjusting everything as far as it will go I can get to the point where it allows the bike to be pushed though there is a little resistance but at this point the lever dose nothing it still moves the operating arm and there is pressure there but its already as disengaged as it will go and when the lever is released its exactly the same,
Am I missing something obvious. I still have the right hand case off so there is no oil in there but I dont think this would cause it.
could the lock nut becoming lose have caused some damage elsewhere?
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If I get the chance ill pull it to bits tomorrow, hopefully itll be obvious, cheers
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Hi, thanks for the swift reply I un hooked the cable and pushed the lever on the engine all the way forwards but the only resistance seems to be the spring
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well, thought I had it all sorted, set of early for mot this mornin but on the way my f left indicator stopped working, turned out to be a bad earth, but buy the time I had sorted it and got to the garage there wasn't time to mot it as they finish at 1 on sat.
to make matters worse on the way home my clutch went light and then stopped working, there seems to be very little resistance there, I wound all the adjusters as far out as they would go just in case but it made no difference. any pointers of where to start greatly appreciated
on the plus side I did get to ride the bike for the first time in about 4 years and its loads lighter to push on the walk of shame than the suzuki.
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Hi, yeah all good. after assembling and disassembling it so many times the whole thing went together in about 20 minutes. came across another issue (see topic - front wheel alignment)
set out for its mot last Saturday but the gear shift pedal broke before i got to the end of the road
fingers crossed for this Saturday
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no worries, one on the way
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Anyone know if I need a year specific spindle? will a 125cc spindle fit ?
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Bent Spindle !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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The RH fork just clamps around a split sleeve on the axle, you should tighten the two clamp nuts up after the spindle nut is tightened and not before...did you do this Sam?
sorry, just been out to look and yes clamp done up after spindle nut
I had considered the twisting in the yokes but ive just tried it and it hasnt made any difference I have no idea if it was always like this, seems likely the forks are bent.
ill see if I can turn the forks in the clamps tomorrow
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Hi, no after because the fork leg (RH) was touching the hub, so I had to pry it away and then tighten it, perhaps I have a spacer missing
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Hello all,
well its all back together and im taking it for its mot on saturday
but I have one last issue and its that the front wheel is not in line with the forks,
I have a 24mm gap between the rim and rhand fork, and 32mm gap on the other side???
I dont get it. the spindle is in a fixed position, I tried pushing the one fork leg higher through the yokes but of course this didnt work because the spring just took it up any suggestions ?
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Hi all got the new bearings today
Looks like thats my 5mm, very strange
parts in the freezer, hope to have it back together tomorrow
happy days
:hyper: 
Muddy DT
in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes
Posted
Hi folks, I promised to post some pictures when the bike was back together, im afraid these were only taken on my phone but ill post some better ones soon.
had an absolute hoot, it was sooo slippy , I was on road tyres and in the company of a crf and two ktm s, great fun and i didnt break anything